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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Is it normal for the rocker arms to be this loose? I don’t remember them sliding this much. The blockage in the bolt hole was the pins that the rockers slide on. I pulled them apart, scotch brite, then oiled. Pins moving much better and could be rotated to get them out of the way of the cap screw. But now they slide a whole lot. Almost off the valve when at TDC

The clicking I heard when turning over engine appears to be the compression release. I guess that’s normal.

 

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Nope shouldn’t move that much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Service manual says that the cam loves should be pointed down at TDC mark. Is that the flat spot on the cam or the curved. One side has a flat spot.

While I’m in there, might as well make damn sure I’m timed right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Sorry, one more question. What is this plug for? It was behind the center console. Not hooked to anything. Same harness as the speed sensor and the override plug.

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It’s a 12v accessory’s plug. Should have a cap for it.
 

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Line the timing marks up in the inspection port. When you are TDC on the compression stroke both valves should be loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
The line on the flywheel that shows TDC through inspection port. Is that supposed to be TDC on compression stroke? Because mine is not.

I read somewhere this is a wasted spark engine. If that’s the case, can you even be 180 degrees out? As long as the timing mark aligns and the cam line is level with the head, it should be good?
 

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Correct it is a wasted spark system. Once you have the cam and timing marks lined up that is when you adjust your valves. That way you are on TDC compression. The timing marks in the inspection port will line up on TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke. If the timing marks don’t line up your cam is not timed properly.
Suck,push,bang,blow, repeat
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Ahh. Didn’t know there was two timing marks on the flywheel. Makes sense. I know it had to be on compression stroke for valve adjustment. I’m good. Now I don’t have any slop. I can’t believe I found those rings. Thought they looked important, just didn’t know what they went to. Ha.

Will be firing this baby back up today. Engine in and right side all connected and hosed up. Working on left side now. Fingers crossed.

Pro Tip: I used a chain hoist to maneuver the engine into place. Hooked the hoist to the roof roll cage. Had to get creative without help. Pry bars and Jack. Wasn’t too bad. Worked like a charm. And best thing is that I didn’t break anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Meh. Got it all together and hooked up. No start. Will turn over and has spark. Just No start.

Question, does this look like it’s in time? This is at TDC on the flywheel. Thought it was close enough. Appeared being one tooth off would be much more than this.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Well, I took off the valve cover and tried to adjust timing. Moved a tooth or two and it’s now aligning much better. Still not perfect though. It still won’t start.

The starter is spinning and not engaging at all times. It wasn’t doing that before. I must have done something wrong. It sounds worse after this timing adjustment. Turns over then kind of bangs and stops turning over. No try to start. Wonder if I sheared the flywheel key.

Battery got down to 50%. So, I’m going to charge it about an hour and try again. I do have fuel. Carb bowl is full. I have Spark.

if I can’t get to start. I’ll pull the stator cover and remove/check the flywheel.

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Sounds like your battery is weak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
It is. But it had no problem turning over and starting before. When it tries to start, everything stops. Almost like the starter is binding or something.

timing is okay. Piston is at TDC when the mark on the flywheel is in the right spot.
 

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Are the rocker arms loose at TDC ( valves closed)
 

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Is the compression release installed correctly ?
 
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