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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought this thing. 300 hours and 1500ish miles. It came broken. Had no Spark and diagnosed/fixed the trigger coil. Fired right up. Drove her on the maiden voyage. Didn’t make it far.

I first notice a good bit of metallic clanking while driving. Probably normal but had me paying attention to the driveline. Noticed a whine on acceleration above 10-15mph. What’s worse is when I started to slow down, it. Was some crazy shaking and grinding. I thought for sure my transmission was about to fly out of the machine.

This wasn’t a little “chatter”. It was horrible. Repeated a couple times. Bad on brake. Basically drove about 200 yards and came back home.

Time to dig in and figure it out. Starting this thread for research purposes for the next guy. I’ve read a bunch of posts about bevel gears, one way bearing, and rear brake. I won’t be tossing parts at it…I want to diagnose and repair.

Unfortunately, the repair manual isn’t great with driveline troubleshooting. It will help with the final repair, but, I need help and a little common sense to actually repair.

Im leaning towards the following steps:

  • Remove bed to watch the driveline while someone else drives. See if something obvious can be seen.
  • Disconnect the caliper on the rear brake.
  • Disconnect rear drive shaft
  • Disconnect front drive shaft
  • Remove clutch cover inspect belts, pulleys, and one way bearing.
 

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maybe try putting it on a lift(wheels off the ground and run things and try to pin point better where the sounds are coming from exactly !
was this atv wrecked? any damage to show that anything is bent?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No issues with being wrecked. It’s in great shape. I’ll try that, but, have to fix my spark issue again. Brand new trigger coil failed. No spark.
 

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Was it an OEM trigger coil ? Cps
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nope. Went cheap Chinese OEM. Seen good reviews from them. Caltric. I also found a Canadian company that sells the pickup coil by itself. Shoulda went that route.

I have to think though, is there a reason they are dying. Meaning something causing the problem…
 

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if you have drive line issue's NO need really for motor to be running, you can lift, and turn tires by hand and if some thing is binding or?? you should still maybe able to hear it
you can also do this in 2x4 and the 4x4 to help isolate location of sound too
a lot easier to find things than driving it and trying to hear over motor and tires on the road and such!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That’s true. I’ll try it tomorrow. I just don’t think I can get the tires moving fast enough. But you never know. Unfortunately this thing is too damn big for my ATV lift table.

Just finished bearings, brakes, and top end for my wife’s Honda Rancher. time for dinner and being lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I’ve got the thing up on stands. Seems to be making a lot of noise. But can’t recreate my sound manually. Tires stop too quickly when hitting the brake.

I want to rule out the rear caliper brake chatter. Plan to remove. I believe it’s just two bolts that hold in the caliper. Unfortunately, getting a socket on there is a pain in the ass. Had to put a swivel on it from the ratchet. Had to drop the skid plate to get to the bottom bolt. Is there not an easier way to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Removed the rear caliper and ran the motor on Jack stands. No shaking or grinding. Not sure if that actually rules anything out though. Might take it for a spin with just the front brakes attached.

I tried to hook up a dial indicator to measure the runout of the rotor. Got 0.005” of runout. But, don’t know how accurate the dial can be the way I mounted it. The way it was rigged was very unscientific.

Could it still be an internal issue to the engine? Since there was nothing on the shaft trying to slow it down?

And I DONT have anti rattle springs installed.
 

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If you take it for a ride make sure you put something between the pads before hitting the brakes or you will pop a piston on the caliper
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
May have already done that. Ha. I didn’t put anything between them. They are pushed against each other. I assume I can separate and press the piston back in.

I ordered a new rotor and brake pads. How do you take the pads out? I can’t figure out how to remove those black round shafts on the pads. And who the hell thought it was a good idea to put a round peg in a square hole?
 

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Push the piston all the way back till it’s flush they wiggle out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Should those pins that the brakes ride on be greased? I’m going to try and push them out if I can. I’d also like to clean them up with some sandpaper. They have flat spots worn in them a little with the pads. Could be part of my problem.

I forgot to mention…when I had the rear end up on jackstands, the pads were rubbing on the rotor. More than a rub actually. They had pressure on them…essentially dragging. They weren’t releasing.
Maybe that was the parking brake. I’ll adjust once I get the new pads and rotor installed.
 

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I put a little grease inside the rubbers before I put the slide back in. Not on the outside it attracts dust.
If the grooves are deep it could cause the pads to bind up a bit. Put return springs on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I’ll have to size some springs locally.
One thing I noticed last night was that the piston wouldn’t go all the way back into the caliper. There was still about 1/4” or so above the surface of the caliper. Is that normal? I’m used to it moving back flush on most vehicles.
 

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It’s normal
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay. My pads didn’t show up yet so I just went for a ride with a new rotor and old pads. It’s better, but still there. I’m leaning towards an issue internally. I’m heading out for a few days to go wheeling and leaving this behind. Will dig back in when I get home. Probably removing the clutch covers and getting a peek at the one way.

Is there any testing I can do to see if it’s bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Okay. I pulled off the covers and the CVT/Belt. I don’t actually know what I’m looking for here. However, I think the one way is working fine. I can only spin the shaft towards the front of the prowler. It won’t spin backwards.

I really don’t want to pull the motor and split the cases until I know it has to be done. Would hate to pull it to find out it was something simple. What’s next? Need some troubleshooting help here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I finally got a few minutes to dig into this one. Been working on getting another 4wheeler ready. Busy season. I needed some wheels to ride since this one is down for the count.

Pulled the clutch cover as well. One way looks fine. No obvious issues that I can see. On the plus side, I saved the gasket

I think I’m going to have to pull the motor and split the case. Unfortunately. Probably going to be a couple weeks before I can get it out. I stuck a magnet inside the oil filler tube and got a good bit of metal back. No huge chunks. One piece the size Of a fingernail clipping though.

I’m rebuilding a blown up diff on another bike. Once done, I’ll give this one the love it deserves. I don’t like taking this long on a project. I end up losing hardware and forgetting how to reassemble.
 
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