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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 400 A/C auto no spark. I've checked everything....execpt the one thing that's wrong. Did anyone have this problem. I swapped the cdi and the external coil. I even had another engine and plugged the stator from it to the one with the problem, because I've read about magnets coming loose. I checked for 12v at the org/wht at the cdi when turning the key on. The battery is new and fully charged. Is there something else in the circuit that I'm overlooking? I have an OEM service manual and it has NOTHING in it for trouble shooting spark other than stating "replace the defective part".....duh.
Thanks
 

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Not to be a smart ass, but did you try a new plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, actually I have a spark checker and tried it with the plug in the machine and then with it out. I've used the starter and the recoil to check. I've changed every component and still no spark. I've changed the coil, cdi, stator, fuses, checked relays, diodes, power to the cdi, and just can't think of anything else. The service manual is completely useless for trouble shooting spark. I'm really not sure if it is a battery cdi ignition or magneto ign because there is no kill circuit other than turning off the power to the cdi, so I would have to assume it's battery cdi except that most of those systems don't have a recoil, and since this one does..... is it mag cdi??? The service manual is pathetic, and this manual came from the dealer.
But thanks for your reply, I appreciate it!
 

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Have you tested the regulator/rectifier? That could be the issue and from your above list seems to be one of the only things you didnt mention?
 

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Having similar issue on 01 250 2x4

I just dragged this home the other day. CDI is missing so I ordered that already. I bought a manual online for mine from midwest manuals. For 5-10 bucks you get a really good manual in pdf format.

Anyway, the manual lists the regulator/rectifier as a cause for no spark. Since I'm waiting for the CDI to come in the mail I got out my multimeter and tested the rectifier according to the detailed instructions in the manual. The rectifier failed miserably.

I doubt my manual will be accurate as far as resistance specs for your rig. But it's a pretty simple test. I need to purchase a rectifier if you know of one for sale.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
taker: No I didn't check the reg/rect but according to the wiring diagram, those wires don't run into the cdi. Plus the battery is fully charged and I did put a different battery in anyway (just in case).

nu2weelrz: Yes, I've bought manuals from Midwest Manuals and they are the best out there and priced right. And yeah, you don't have to wait for it to come in the mail. He offers an instant download. Anyway, the OE manual says nothing about the reg/rect for a condition of no spark. Yours might need the charging system to run if its a battery cd. And...your reg is available through Rick's Motorsports Electric Inc for about a hundred bucks. Also check Ebay and even type in the part# there, except look for new. I wouldn't buy a used one.

Sanny651...yeah, I had another bottom end from one that let loose on top. I had the side cover off and inspected the flywheel. I put it back together and plugged its harness to the quad's harness and spun it up with a drill. About the only thing left that I can think of is a broken wire somewhere. The bike still looks like new, the guy really took care of it. All the wiring looks like new yet. I know the ignition parts from my test bike/motor are good because it had a mechanical failure and the only way for that to happen is for the engine to be running at that time...................
 

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I uploaded a picture of the wiring diagram for a 400 auto, you said you didnt think there was a connection between the regulator and the CDI so I put a box around the wires that connects the two and if your Regulator isnt working properly the CDI may not be producing a signal to spark. Now im not saying this is your problem however I am pointing out that it is possible!!!
 

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Now in this image of the diagram I highlighted the High Voltage circuit that leads from CDI to the COIL, The stator also has the Green White Purple and Yellow wire leads that go directly to the CDI and are the signal + and - and the Trigger + and - but if the regulator is bad the coil isnt being charged at the very least and may also not trigger im just not sure but ultimately the regulator has to be good or she wont fire IMO!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yup, I got the same wiring diagram and the only wire coming from the reg is the ground, but I have a spare reg and I'm gunna try it right now........I'll be back......and thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nope....the only thing I can think of is a broken wire somewhere in the harness. I guess the next thing I can do is probe the wires for peak voltage at the cdi from the trigger and the exciter.........
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm still not sure if this is a battery cdi or a mag cdi. The manual calls it a magneto but there is no kill circuit. The cdi has 12v to it when the key is on which would make it a battery ignition, similar to a car.......
 

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No its a magneto ignition, you dont even need the battery installed to start the bike!!! Which is why the signal and trigger wires dont run through the regulator but rather go straight to the CDI, the CDI simply triggers the coil depending on the RPM of the motor to whatever degree of advance is necessary at said RPM!!! I was simply hoping that the regulator would have something to do with the High Voltage supply to the coil but apparently not!!!
 

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If you need it I have a complete wiring harness for that bike here. I just parted out my 400 a couple months ago and thats one of the few remaining parts I have!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm going to mess with it some more today. I'm wondering if one of my components that I'm using for trouble shooting is bad, although they came from a running (but blown) motor. But first I'm going to check all the ignition wiring and that shouldn't be too bad. There's other wires that come out of the CDI that go to brake switches, temp switches and sensors. I've checked all those too thinking maybe they all have to be functioning in order for the CDI/ECM to work. In the manual, Cat says to swap out the defective part and try it. Well, it's a little hard to do when the CDI is $546 and the stator is $526 !!!.........
 

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I have 2 stators for 400's available if you determine thats what you need, its extremely unlikely that your CDI is bad!!!
 

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No its a magneto ignition, you dont even need the battery installed to start the bike!!! Which is why the signal and trigger wires dont run through the regulator but rather go straight to the CDI, the CDI simply triggers the coil depending on the RPM of the motor to whatever degree of advance is necessary at said RPM!!! I was simply hoping that the regulator would have something to do with the High Voltage supply to the coil but apparently not!!!
Still trying to wrap my head around this! Can the magnets coming off the fly wheel cause this problem?
 

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I'm going to mess with it some more today. I'm wondering if one of my components that I'm using for trouble shooting is bad, although they came from a running (but blown) motor. But first I'm going to check all the ignition wiring and that shouldn't be too bad. There's other wires that come out of the CDI that go to brake switches, temp switches and sensors. I've checked all those too thinking maybe they all have to be functioning in order for the CDI/ECM to work. In the manual, Cat says to swap out the defective part and try it. Well, it's a little hard to do when the CDI is $546 and the stator is $526 !!!.........

Keep us posted on what you find!
 

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my apology

I went back to my manual and realized I read it wrong. The rectifier IS NOT listed as a cause for no spark! Sorry! I'm convinced the problem with my rig is the key for the magneto rotor is sheared. I pulled the cover and stator to inspect. Without pulling the rotor I cannot verify and I don't have the right tool. Does anyone know the size of the magneto puller needed on my 250?

Without the right tool to pull the magneto I decided to put the nut back on and found that the crank easily turns free while holding the rotor with a wrench. If you've checked everything else this may be the cause.
 
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