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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Install of a speedwerx clutch kit on a 2006 arctic cat 400 4x4 auto.
kit # 0203-2406


The kit contains.

1- lime green secondary spring

8- primary rollers

5- primary clutch extension springs

[attachment=89594:clutch_k...pics_011.jpg]

Tools needed.

High powered pneumatic/electric impact gun.

Needle nose pliers

Flat head and Phillips head screwdriver

ft/lb tourque wrench

Ratchets

Wrenches

Sockets

Channel lock pliers

Clutch spring compression tool or equivelant


Supplies.

Wet clutch approved oil

Oil Filter

Inner case gasket- Arctic Cat Part # 3402-589. Or Suzuki part # 11482-38F00 (cheaper)

Locktite- Red And Blue


The Install.

I started by draining the oil from the atv. The directions state you can reuse your oil if you put it into a clean container. i personally didnt do this as i was due for an oil change.
[attachment=89595:Little_D_011.jpg]

I then removed the 10 star bolts that hold the foot board on the atv. i used the little star bit tool that came with the atv for this. there are 4 on each side of the foot board and 2 that hold the foot peg on.Once those are removed you can take off the foot board.
[attachment=89596:Little_D_013.jpg]

The next step is to remove the frame for the foot board which is held on by 4 nuts 2 on each side.Then remove it from the hanger. Also remove the foot brake noting how it was asembled before removing it.
[attachment=89597:Little_D_014.jpg]

Now remove the bolts that hold the clutch cover on. Be careful when removing the cover not to force it or you will risk breaking the cover and even the gasket. Also there is a roller bearing in the cover so be careful not to lose this bearing.
[attachment=89598:Little_D_015.jpg]

You should now be staring at your primary clutch which is the one on the right and your secondary clutch which is the one on the left. and your belt. Start by using your high powere pnematic or electric gun to remove the nut on the primary clutch it is a regular thread. The clutch will want to spin so whatever you use to remove the nut has to be powerful enough to spin the nut off or you will be fighting with it for a long time. Now that the nut is removed using your thumbs keep pressure on the front plate of the primary clutch as the rollers are behind that plate and they will fall out if the cover is not held. take the clutch off and put it on a bench and open pull the cover off of the front it just slides off.
[attachment=89599:Little_D_017.jpg]

Now that the cover off you should be staring at the rollers. Remove the rollers they just pull right out. keep your new and old rollers seperated as not to get them mixed up. On the rollers you just removed there is a white wear cover on them. If you look at the rollers that came with your kit you see just a metal roller. You need to remove these wear covers from the old roller and install them onto the new roller. I used 2 different sized sockets and a hammer and made my own version of a punch by using a small socket on the bottom and a socket that was the diameter of the wear cover and just gave them a few taps to seperate the 2. be careful as not to damage the wear cover. Now install the wear covers onto the new rollers that cam with your kit. i also tapped these with a rubber mallet to help install them. now that the wear covers are installed onto the new rollers place the rollers back into the primary as you found the stock ones and make sure you have 8 rollers.Now put the front plate back on and push it down as far as it goes to hold the rollers in.
[attachment=89600:Little_D_018.jpg][attachment=89601:Little_D_022.jpg]

Now you can remove your belt. Now is also a good time to inspect your belt and look for any excessive wear or flat spots or any defect on the belt at all and decide if its ok to reuse.

Now remove the secondary clutch by removing the nut the same way you removed the primary clutch. The thread is a regular thread.When you get the secondary nut off slide the secondary off of the shaft. You will now see a spring that is compressed. That is your secondary spring and it is as large actually larger than the spring that came with the kit. So you can see how compressed it really is. I put the clutch in a vise as to absorb the rebound from the spring and used a set of channel lock pliers to remove the nut thats ontop of the spring this also is a standard thread. Now that the spring is off its time to install the new secondary spring. place it in the cup thats atached to the clutch. then put the cup ontop of the spring making sure the end of the spring is poking through the hole in the top cup.I used blue threadlocker on the threads of the secondary were the nut is going to be threaded to hold the secondary spring in place it is not necessary it wasnt threadlocked from the factory but i do recomend it as a precautionary. Now you need to install the new secondary spring. This is were your supposed to use the clutch spring compression tool. Some have done it by hand but its dangerouse and very diffacult. I took a small piece of plywood probably 6"x 6" and drilled a hole in the middle that was larger than the nut i was installing but small enough that it would sit over the cup on top of the secondary spring to give me the leveridge i needed to compress the spring. I dropped the nut in the hole pushed down until i could thread the nut on a few turns and then slowly let up as to make sure it would hold. Then i used the channel lock pliers and tightened the nut up tourque to 65 ft/lb.
[attachment=89603:Little_D_028.jpg][attachment=89604:Clutch3.jpg]
[attachment=89605:Little_D_016.jpg][attachment=89613:Little_D_048.jpg]

So once youve done all the other steps its time to remove the inner clutch housing cover. Remove the air intake and exhaust off of the cover and push them aside. Remove the bolts as well as the 3 phillips head screws that are in the cover. There are bolts under the cover as well that you may miss. So if you try to remove the cover and it gives you a fight you probably missed a bolt or 2. also not there is a bolt that is longer than the rest and one shorter than the rest as well as one tha has a washer attached to the end. note the placement of these bolts as to make sure it is assembled correctly. remove the cover slowly and do note there is a one way bearing that is attached to the cover that has to be installed in the correct direction or when the job is done your atv will take off on you. i noted there is a green dot on the front of the one way bearing that faces toward you as well as the direction is etched into the bearing.
[attachment=89606:Little_D_029.jpg][attachment=89607:Little_D_032.jpg]


now you will be staring at the starter clutch. you need to remove the nut on this clutch. do note this nut is red thread locked. and also it is reversed threaded. so it will spin off in the opposite direction of a standard thread. Once the nut is removed you can slide the starter clutch off of the shaft. Now flip it over you will see the 5 primary clutch extension springs. You can remove the clips holding the plates down with needle nose pliers. do note the order in which the plates come off of the back of the starter clutch as it must be put back together in that exact order. Remove the stock springs one at a time and install the springs that came with your kit. Once this is done you can reinstall the starter clutch and make sure you use red threadlocker on the threads as to avoid it loosening up. and remember it is a reversed thread. so you will tighten it the opposite direction of a standard thread. In the directions there were no specs on how many ft pounds to tighten the starter clutch nut to. so i tightened it to 85ft lbs. the same the directions call for when reinstalling the secondary clutch.
[attachment=89608:Little_D_034.jpg][attachment=89609:Clutch2.jpg]
[attachment=89610:Little_D_043.jpg][attachment=89611:Little_D_044.jpg]

Reinstall the inner clutch cover using the new seal. i also used high temp silicone as an added measure but also isnt required as it wasnt done from the factory. Also make sure that the one way bearing is in the correct direction. Reinstall the bolts and screws that hold the inner clutch cover on.

Reinstall the primary clutch keeping pressure on the front plate as not to let the rollers fall out. also recomended to use red threadlocker on these threads as well. Tourque to 85 ft/lb

Reinstall the secondary clutch but do not put the nut on yet. Use the bolts from the outer clutch cover to seperate the 2 halfs or the secondary. there are holes in the front of the secondary to thread these bolts into to seperate the clutches. Once they are seperated reinstall your belt.Then put the clutch face back on and apply red thread locker to the threads and reinstall nut.tourque to 85 ft/lb Then check belt deflection to make sure its within specs. By using a straight edge across the top of the belt then push down on the belt and measure with a ruler. Belt deflection should be 22-27mm or .87-1.06"
[attachment=89612:Little_D_051.jpg]

Reinstall front clutch cover making sure to re attach the grounds that are attached to the cover.

Reinstall belt snorkels

Reinstall rear foot brake. Check for proper adjustment.

Reinstall foot board frame.

Reinstall foot board.

Notes.

Most people recomend using threadlocker on nuts and bolts to avoid having them loosen up.

Also the directions state try to spare the inner clutch cover gasket to reuse it. Just buy a new gasket dont even bother trying to spare it. im sure some have but for the money its worth it to do the job once than to have to do it twice.

This mod is not a diffacult install if you have any mechanical background. The directions are straight forward. It is not an hr job. It will take time. Dont cut corners or youll regret it.

Some sort of pneumatic or electric impact gun is going to be needed. Dont expect to take these off by hand.Im sure some have but im sure it wasnt easy.

I took pics of every step during this job to guarantee myself proper reassembly. Its a good idea when tackling any job to assure you remember how everything was installed.

On the 2006 400 4x4 auto the motor and trans are suzuki. And while doing this project and looking at parts i realized that the motor on the arctic cat 400 is the same as on suzuki's 2006 eiger 400. So i started looking at the price difference between Arctic cat and Suzuki parts and the Suzuki is almost always cheaper for parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The mod was fairly easy to do and at first the difference was not seen but after getting sometime to ride hills snow etc the differences are very noticable. the atv pulls hard from low right through to mid range. the atv puts power to the ground much easier. keeps the wheels spinning alot better even in high gear in deep snow. the belt noise is alot less the atv feels much more responsive. and my belt doesnt cherp like it did before. it shifts into gear alot easier. overall the difference isnt immediately noticable but once you start putting the machine through the paces youll notice. the atv throws me back every time i pin the throtte even in high gear. i like the difference and it was well worth the $120. i have soo many more pics of this project if anyone want to see them. or has anyquestions. i know i do not have the socket or wrench sizes on here but i completely forgot to note them while doing the project. but youll need basic tool.
 

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is this for use with stock sized tires? i want to add a clutch kit to our 400 which has 25" mudlites. is the lime green good for that application? can u use that combo with a primary spring as well? sorry for all the questions, lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Frndinalowplace @ Feb 3 2008, 11:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
is this for use with stock sized tires? i want to add a clutch kit to our 400 which has 25" mudlites. is the lime green good for that application? can u use that combo with a primary spring as well? sorry for all the questions, lol[/b]
yes this kit is for the stock tire size. speedwerx also say i would have no problem running 26's with this kit. i think you can build your own kit too. buy whatever primary spring you want and rollers etc. call sw they can set you up real good
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
if you need any help or any more pics i have a ton more that i didnt post.
 

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WoW !! Excellent Wright UP !! :thumbsup: I will be doing this install in due time.... Thanks !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Green4004x4 @ Feb 5 2008, 09:36 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
WoW !! Excellent Wright UP !! :thumbsup: I will be doing this install in due time.... Thanks !![/b]
no prob green. as stated before ive got a ton more pics if you need them.
 

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Notice that the lowly 400 has a strong Following here...heehee.... maybe we should have a AC 400 board.... heehee
 
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nice write-up Rango!
now when cruising down the trail in high, does it rev much higher when it was stock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
buddy the only difference in revving that was noticable was the engagement is now about 2500 rpm. and even that is barely noticable. i spent alot of time on my 400 stock before i added the clutch kit so any differences were a more noticable than to someone who just bought there machine. at first just crusing up and down the road i didnt see any difference and was a little dissapointed but once i got on the trail i realized that there were alot of differences. all good imo. and green the way i look at it is there a 2 types of people on here ones that own 400's and the ones that wish they owned 400's lol ( i just say that cuz i dont have anything bigger lol). mods maybe we can get this pinned. not because i wrote it just because i have had a large amount of pm's about people wondering about this install. p.s no ones bothering me so if anyone has questions or needs pics just let me know. your call mods. is it pinnned worthy
 

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that looks Identical to my 07 700 efi, but i thought mine was right hand thread?
 

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i dont want a different primary spring for mine, i want the same engagement speed...what was the engagement when it was stock?
but sweet write-up again

how about your top speed?
has it changed? and does it get up there noticably quicker?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ill tell ya buddy the engagement is barely noticable. and my top speed barely dropped if at all. i would say if it did drop it was 2-3 no more than 5 mph drop. and it get right up in the power band quick and goes like hell. and 700 are you referring to the starter clutch nut.??? i dont know about the 700 but mine was definately reverse threaded. i expected to see it on the primary and secondary as well but the starter clutch nut was the only one.
 

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RANGO...thanks for the article. my speedwerx clutch kit is on the way and i'll be installing it this week. i got on the site to see if anyone had any secret hints. great pics too. speedwerx instructions have not let me down in the past, but this will be used as a helper on my install.

as for 400 -vs.- all else...i must admit, my '06 400 is a great machine (for my wife!), but i'll keep my '05 500l.e.

kidding!!!! go cat or go home - towed home that is. engarde
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (400crasher @ Feb 5 2008, 09:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
That was a great write up,,Rango!! That sucker should be pinned in the how to section!!![/b]
Excelent write up Rango!

I'll let the topic stay out in the performance/tech section for a couple of days to get some views then will move it to the pinned section thumbguy
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks go fast greatly appreciated.
 
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