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Discussion Starter #1
Got this quad not too long ago. Fixed up the carb and bought a new batt and it ran great. I was pulling small trees with it, driving around , everything worked.

Then today, after driving around in the mud in my back yard a little I notice the quad is slowing down even though I'm giving it more and more rpm. I checked to see if I the tires were spinning.. and nope. Tires aren't moving. I managed to get it out by shifting to low gear and gunning it for it to start rolling again.

Now it barely wants to move in any gear. High low and reverse all need 3k + rpms until you start to move.

I can't find a single post on the internet about what to check. This is a semi-auto and not an automatic. I only get results for automatics quads.

I took this plate off on the right and adjusted the one big and one small screw, but it made no difference.

What do I look for? Where do I check? Is there indeed a belt behind the cover on the right side? Please help me
 

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ok WHAT model atv is this,. they made more than 1, 4x4 model in 2006

however, the belt can be worn ? pulling tree is very hard on an atv! there not tractors!

clutching issue's??
I'd suggest getting yourself a service manual and reading on possible issue's
also, how many miles and hours are on this motor?
maybe time to do a compression test?
 

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It has no belt, it is a semi auto with a foot shifter. What oil are you using?
If not using the correct oil the internal clutch can shift and act like you are describing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It has no belt, it is a semi auto with a foot shifter. What oil are you using?
If not using the correct oil the internal clutch can shift and act like you are describing.
I'm not really sure what oil was put into it. I got the quad last summer, and drove it around a little, and then just started riding it around a few days ago and now it doesn't move. If it had the wrong oil wouldn't it of done this from the start?

I have some photos and videos I can upload of the problem when I get home.

And I don't know the exact model. All it says on the quad is "400"

If you google artic cat 400 4x4 semi auto you get the exact same looking quad
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As for maintenance, all I know is that the top end has been rebuilt recently, the inner and outer tierods changed , and I've done battery and carb . Was going to install a choke cable conversion to replace the finnicky auto choke but I won't bother if the machine is toast.
 

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A starter clutch is not that bad. It takes time for it to start slipping if the wrong oil was used.
Download a free service manual at countrycat.com and do the proper clutch pack adjustment on it.
Have you checked the oil?
 

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ok some info, and sorry about the belt suggestion, my bad there!

like others have said, you need to have wet clutch approved oil in, or over time it can cause issue's with the clutches
there should be a clutch adjustment, that can maybe help, but cannot say for sure

next, don't motor seem to still have same power, or does motor seem to be lacking in power, and not just a trans like problem, do you se any smopke coming out exhaust?


and my thinking here is this
MANY folks use atv's as boats anymore, and then folks sink them, they fill motors with water
then run motors and before long there LOW on power, so, many take the short cut and flush a few times and do a top end
However, that NOT the correct way to clean and fix a motor that was sunk
as there will always be dirt in water that gets into a motor , and as such, a lot of times that dirt sticks inside motor and doesn;t come out from flushing alone,
its like playing the lottery, some times you get lucky flushing, many times you don't

so that dirt in motor free's itself after REBUILDING the top end and then after some use running motor, that dirt moves about and eats up the NEW top end, and before long your back to square one, or worse
ONLY correct way to clean a motor that has been sunk is to take motor apart/split cases and a CLEAN it properly!


so if low power, smoking, you then will be in need again of motor work

I have NO clue if your/this atv was sunk or not, , just giving a possible situation here, as many folks also who SINK an atv, do a TOP end and then SELL atv to a unsuspecting buyer, only to find out down the road they got screwed!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked the oil level yesterday and it's at the correct fill level. I can do a compression test on it next time I go to camp, But I believe the engine is fine. it starts up perfectly, idles normally, had lots of power all day, and I was riding it quite a bit. Then suddenly after like 5 hours of riding it on and off yesterday it decided it would only rev up and not move anymore.

If say it was the wrong oil, do I simply change out the oil or do I have to replace the clutch too?

364494


Youtube video of the problem

Here's a picture of the machine, and a video of the problem since I'm home now.
 

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having correct amount of oil matters, but it also has to be of the correct type of oil!
using NON wet clutch approved oil, can damage or destroy clutches!
SO< if the wrong oil was used it will create a film like coating on the clutch plates and then they will not to work properly
if the oil(wrong oil) was only in for a short period of time, you may get lucky by doing a few oil changes with correct oil and adjusting the clutch
but if not, YES they will need to be replaced to work again as they should

this is why, oil matters as to what is used and where, its not all the same
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright so sent a text to my uncle who is the last to do an oil change on this and he says he used what he uses in his goldwing,. Diesel 15-40 because he did not believe it used motor oil for the clutches

And since that oil change was last summer, it's well beyond just a little bit of use.

How difficult would changing clutches on this be? Do you have to pull the whole motor out or is it something you can do with it still in the bike?

I've only ever worked with CVT's, so my knowledge here is quite limited. I'll take a look at the free service manual later and see what I can learn from that
 

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all you can do is give it a try, download the service manual, change the oil, adjust the clutch. If it hasn't burned up from slipping you might get lucky
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright, one more question, the service manual wasn't very descriptive in this respect, what side is the starting clutch on? the left side with the shift pedal or the right side?

The shifter pedal is welded to the shaft, so I hope for my sake it's not on the left side if I ever wanted to take the bolts off and look at it.
 

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You’re hooped. Starter clutch is on left hand side and clutch packs are on right hand side.

Edit: I goofed, manual says starter clutch gear, not clutch itself. It’s on right hand side too
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You’re hooped. Starter clutch is on left hand side and clutch packs are on right hand side.

Edit: I goofed, manual says starter clutch gear, not clutch itself. It’s on right hand side too
So lets say hypothetically speaking, I make it into the right side cover and uncover the clutch and starter packs, how will I know if they're toast?
 

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Drive plate minimum thickness is 2.62 mm or .103 inches. You will need to measure all 6 of them. However if the oil used was not wet clutch safe, they will be no good especially when used for any length of time. Friction modifiers from wrong oil will be embedded in plates.
 
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Forgot to add there is no measurement for starter clutch shoes. check for burns, chips, uneven wear or cracks on shoes and check for burns, marks, scuffs, scratches or uneven wear on the housing.
 

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I just read your other post. The starter clutch is probably shot as it is the first link.
This is what I would do.
1- change oil with wet clutch safe oil, NO friction modifiers( as stated above)
2- adjust clutch plates exactly as per the free service manual
If no change then
3- drain the oil, pull it apart and start with the starter clutch shoes and drum. If they are worn , burnt and the drum is grooved you know the problem.

You can probably get the drum turned at a machine shop and buy new shoes. As stated previously, buy your parts from a Suzuki dealer as that is a Suzuki Eiger engine.
 
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Sorry, this may not apply if your wheeler doesn't have a belt... IF it does however, this is what happened to me and sounds exactly like what you are running into.

There MAY be an easy fix for this if it is what happened to me. I was out mudding and had a leak in the gear box breathing tube. The tube that comes up from the clutch cover and goes up near the airbox. I got a bunch of mud and water in there and the clutch was slipping. Or so I thought. It was actually the clutch drive belt that was slipping from being wet. I limped home. Pulled the breather tube off, and took a water hose and rinsed down in the belt cover as best I could. There is a small plug on the bottom of the belt cover case that MUST be removed to allow all of the water to drain out. After washing it good and letting it sit to dry for a while, I start it with the plug still out, and GENTLY gave it gas. The belt still slipped a little but after riding it a few feet it all started to dry out. I rode it around like that for a good half hour to warm everything up. Let it sit for a while, then put the plug and cover breather tube back on. That was 2 years ago and I have never had another problem.
 
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