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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 2005 with reverse failed. the bearing and the drive shaft slide into the chaincase. I've rebuilt it twice following the service manual and parts illustrated breakdown. New bearings and seals speedo flex shift. Everything torqued to specs. And it has slide out into the chaincase side again. This allows it to come out of the speedo side and tip to the rear of sled not allowing the cogs to contact the track. It happened last time after about a mile ride were I had done 2 5 point turns in a narrow area then a drive back to the garage it just stopped from a speed of about 20 mph.
Any help would be appreciated the chaincase side is jammed up against the chaincase cover inside. I'm missing something this is the third time its happened, each time after I have attempted to rebuild it
 

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My 2005 with reverse failed the seeds bearing and the drive shaft slide into the chaincase. I've rebuilt it twice following the service manual and parts illustrated breakdown. New bearings and seals speedo flex shift. Everything torqued to specs. And it has slide out into the chaincase side again. This allows it to come out of the speedo side and tip to the rear of sled not allowing the cogs to contact the track. It happened last time after about a mile ride were I had done 2 5 point turns in a narrow area then a drive back to the garage it just stopped from a speed of about 20 mph.
Any help would be appreciated the chaincase side is jammed up against the chaincase cover inside.
how are you tightening the locking collar on the PTO side bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Torqued to specs. I put in new bolts with blue lock tight applied. This is the second time this has happened, new bearings, lock collar on speedo side. This began with an initial failure of the speedo bearing. I've rebuilt it twice. Here is a picture of what it did on speedo side, I haven't had the chance to Crack the chaincase yet, however it is still full of fluid.
366750
 

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it looks like the shaft is sliding out of the bearing, can you describe how you are locking the bearing onto the shaft? the locking collar should have a hole on the side, and a set screw. you need to put the end of a punch in the hole, and drive it with a hammer, in the same direction the shaft turns, this locks the bearing in place, then you tighten the set screw. if you lock the collar opposite to the rotation of the shaft, it can come loose. not sure, if thats your issue, but can't think of any other reason for the shaft to back out of the bearing
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The lock collar was just slid onto the bearingthen i tightened the 2 set screws. I didn't realize there is a procedure to lock that side of the bearing other than tightening the lock screws.im going to order all the bearings and seals again. I have a service manual but it didn't get that detailed or I am missing something. If you wouldn't mind just giving my a little more detail on how to set that properly. I know its something simple im missing here
 

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jason called it.
have to jam the lock collar into new bearing with punch .
if you look at the part that goes into the bearing it is an eccentric.
i will look for procedure in manual if i have it
 

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Here's the notation in the manual. This is shown in the manual after the gears in chaincase are tightened to spec. This is also true even if you're not changing sprockets.

NOTE: If the PTO-side driven shaft bearing was removed to make the sprocket installation easier, install the bearing and flange plate. Lock the bearing collar by driving it in the direction of rotation to lock the collar to the bearing and shaft. Tighten the collar set screw.
 
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The lock collar was just slid onto the bearingthen i tightened the 2 set screws. I didn't realize there is a procedure to lock that side of the bearing other than tightening the lock screws.im going to order all the bearings and seals again. I have a service manual but it didn't get that detailed or I am missing something. If you wouldn't mind just giving my a little more detail on how to set that properly. I know its something simple im missing here
make sure you get a bearing with an eccentric locking collar, this video is really good for explaining the procedure (the second bearing type he describes)

 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is the kit I installed does this look right. Looking to the front of the machine I installed left bearing and lock collar on the speedometer side, the other bearing and the orange on the other side. The chaincase bearing was placed with the extended collar facing the chain case cover. Spacer then gearset. What side holds the drive shaft from moving into the chaincase. I thought it was the bearing holder in the chaincase?
366833
 

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looks right, the speedo side one gets the collar, and thats what holds the shaft in place. the chain-case side bearing is trapped by the flange, but the shaft can still slide in the bearing if its not locked by the speedo side locking collar properly. i think you just tightened the set screw, but didnt use a hammer and punch to lock the collar right? then for sure it will slide into the chaincase. lock the collar at the very end of the process, reaching up under the track with hammer and punch, once the gears are confirmed to be lined up properly on the chaincase side.

also, the all balls bearings can leak chaincase oil if you dont use these seals on the face (oil seeps through the bearing side covers). better yet, get the Cat OEM bearing for the chaincase side, and they have the proper seals.


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank so much. I did not lock the locking collar correctly. Your information was so helpful. I feel confident I can put it back together properly know. I will update everyone once I get all the parts in and rebuild it. I think I'm going to replace the chain as well since it has been twisted to the chain case cover 3 times
 

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Thank so much. I did not lock the locking collar correctly. Your information was so helpful. I feel confident I can put it back together properly know. I will update everyone once I get all the parts in and rebuild it. I think I'm going to replace the chain as well since it has been twisted to the chain case cover 3 times

I also recommend Arctic Cat OE service parts, especially bearings and seals. Replacing the chain is a really good idea too. They wear pretty quickly and get longer [chains don't stretch, they develop wear which makes them longer]. Just compare your old one to a new one and you will see. If you have reverse, change the small o-ring seal for the reverse rod link that goes in your chain case cover, you will thank me later for not having a leak!
 

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Sorry to respond to an older thread but I wasting time in a waiting room...

Anyway, I think your problem has nothing to do with the bearing and everything to do with the shaft. From the picture it looks like the end of it is really buggered up. The shaft should be machined even and come to a square shoulder at the end. The bearing should be a nice even slip fit and there should be no play even without the collar locked. Unless the picture is misleading me I think that bearing is wobbling around and tearing its self a part.

I had a drive shaft with just a little damage on the end that I replaced because the bearing didn't fit right.

K
 
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