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Can anyone help me make my clutches on a 2005 f7 work like the clutches on the 2006 efi sno pro.I really could use some advice, please!
2005 f7 efi clutch sucks!
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79 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (stevieb @ Jan 14 2007, 01:10 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
What do you mean, "work like an 06". What exactly is the problem(s) you are having???
What do you mean, "work like an 06". What exactly is the problem(s) you are having???
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57 Posts
I have the d&d clutch kit already, and I dont know what kit it is but i am sure they only sell one for f7 at my elevation.I think the weights say 73 but I dont know anything about the helix.Do you guys think that this dd helix will work good in the 10.4, or should I get the stock one in.The spring colors are red in pri. and white in secondary.You guys are sutch a help.
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My buddy has 06 sp efi, and it is a rocket out of the hole, and its a way diff. sled in preformance.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (stevieb @ Jan 14 2007, 02:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
D&D's kits usually work fairly well. How's your belt deflection and alignment? What belt are you running? Are you sure your performance problem(s) is due to clutching? Is your sled carb or EFI? Worst case scenario, put it all back to stock and compare side by side runs with your friend's F6. Also, may want to check in with Dan at Outdoor Shop. His kits work well.
Is it lack of acceleration, poor top end, something else? Are clutches/belt getting really hot when running???
D&D's kits usually work fairly well. How's your belt deflection and alignment? What belt are you running? Are you sure your performance problem(s) is due to clutching? Is your sled carb or EFI? Worst case scenario, put it all back to stock and compare side by side runs with your friend's F6. Also, may want to check in with Dan at Outdoor Shop. His kits work well.
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my buddies sled is 2006 f7 sno pro efi, and mine is 2005 efi f7. stock belt,and the belt is preety warm after a run.The stock belt is sits about 3 mm below the top of secondary clutch when its shut off and i lift the hood to look at it.
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his 2006 works awsome at the bottom end and his throtle responce is great compared to mine.It just seems like a diff. sled and we both have same mods.his clutch is complete stock.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (stevieb @ Jan 14 2007, 05:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Also, if you have not already done so, you probably need to remove a shim or two from behind the secondary for proper alignment. The best way to do this is via free floating the driven. 1) remove driven, 2)remove all shims from behind it (may need a magnat to get them out) 3) reinstall driven with bolt installed but lose, also put belt on. 4) with sled on stand run it up to 4-5k rpm so the track spins. let the track roll to a stop (no braking). 5) once stopped, locked brake and measure the distance from tunnel frame (behind driven) to inside of outer sheave. This distance should be roughly 3 1/8". Do this a couple times to get the an average. Then, once you have this distance, pull secondary and add the necessary shims behind it so that when you bolt it on it's at this distance. My guess is if you measure it right now (before any changes), you're probably at 3 1/4" plus. Let me know if you need more specifics, I'll send you some more details.
Your deflection is off. You need the top of the belt roughly 1/8" above top of secondary. Note when you make any deflection changes, after you're done turning wrenches you HAVE to run the sled on a stand (or on snow) to get the clutches engaging....then let them roll to a stop to recheck deflection. You cannot simply tweak your sheaves to change deflection and see the new deflection WITHOUT running the sled and engaging the clutches a little.
Also, if you have not already done so, you probably need to remove a shim or two from behind the secondary for proper alignment. The best way to do this is via free floating the driven. 1) remove driven, 2)remove all shims from behind it (may need a magnat to get them out) 3) reinstall driven with bolt installed but lose, also put belt on. 4) with sled on stand run it up to 4-5k rpm so the track spins. let the track roll to a stop (no braking). 5) once stopped, locked brake and measure the distance from tunnel frame (behind driven) to inside of outer sheave. This distance should be roughly 3 1/8". Do this a couple times to get the an average. Then, once you have this distance, pull secondary and add the necessary shims behind it so that when you bolt it on it's at this distance. My guess is if you measure it right now (before any changes), you're probably at 3 1/4" plus. Let me know if you need more specifics, I'll send you some more details.
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HOW do you tweek the sheaves on sec. I now nothing about clutches but I will try what you said and get back to you,Thanks so mutch.
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sent u a PM regarding alignment/deflection details.
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479 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (stevieb @ Jan 14 2007, 05:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
200-7220 05 F7 EFI Stock Pipe Clutch Kit $249.00
[ $236.55 ]
SHIFT ASSIST WILL HELP MAKE A SMOOTHER UP SHIFT AND WILL ALSO HELP BACK SHIFT BY ELIMINATING SPRING BINDING.
http://www.ddracing.com/03-show_item.asp?ID=1421
Well worth the time and $.!..then make your reccomended deflection changes, and alignment.
Is the correct # for the kit on yiur sled?
200-7220 05 F7 EFI Stock Pipe Clutch Kit $249.00
[ $236.55 ]
SHIFT ASSIST WILL HELP MAKE A SMOOTHER UP SHIFT AND WILL ALSO HELP BACK SHIFT BY ELIMINATING SPRING BINDING.
http://www.ddracing.com/03-show_item.asp?ID=1421
Well worth the time and $.!..then make your reccomended deflection changes, and alignment.
Joined
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79 Posts
Bodd,
I have the shift assist in my sled, but have yet to run it. Will having that in impact my driven spring tension....vs. NOT having the shift assit in??? Guess I just need to experiment, but thought you may have some insight regarding this prior to heading north.
John
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (bodd @ Jan 14 2007, 11:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
200-7220 05 F7 EFI Stock Pipe Clutch Kit $249.00
[ $236.55 ]
SHIFT ASSIST WILL HELP MAKE A SMOOTHER UP SHIFT AND WILL ALSO HELP BACK SHIFT BY ELIMINATING SPRING BINDING.
http://www.ddracing.com/03-show_item.asp?ID=1421
Well worth the time and $.!..then make your reccomended deflection changes, and alignment.
[/b][/quote]
I have the shift assist in my sled, but have yet to run it. Will having that in impact my driven spring tension....vs. NOT having the shift assit in??? Guess I just need to experiment, but thought you may have some insight regarding this prior to heading north.
John
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (bodd @ Jan 14 2007, 11:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Is the correct # for the kit on yiur sled?
200-7220 05 F7 EFI Stock Pipe Clutch Kit $249.00
[ $236.55 ]
SHIFT ASSIST WILL HELP MAKE A SMOOTHER UP SHIFT AND WILL ALSO HELP BACK SHIFT BY ELIMINATING SPRING BINDING.
http://www.ddracing.com/03-show_item.asp?ID=1421
Well worth the time and $.!..then make your reccomended deflection changes, and alignment.
[/b][/quote]
im4snow2000 Posted Yesterday, 05:51 PM
sent u a PM regarding alignment/deflection details.
im4snow2000
Would you mind sending me a PM regarding alingnment/deflection details.
Im currently runnign 05 F7 EFI SP with stock 10" sheaves and ODS kit.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
sent u a PM regarding alignment/deflection details.
im4snow2000
Would you mind sending me a PM regarding alingnment/deflection details.
Im currently runnign 05 F7 EFI SP with stock 10" sheaves and ODS kit.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
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79 Posts
RFF,
In the link below, look specifically at post #3 by Dono. In there he describes the best way to ensure your alignment is correct.
http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/index.php...mp;hl=alignment
Bottom line is that when under load, you want the belt running parellel between the drive and driven clutch. From the factory they placed a certain amount of washers behind the driven clutch in an effort to achieve this alignment, or parellelism. However, some of us have found too many washers behind the driven such that is was NOT properly aligned.
In general, if you measure off of the tunnel down by the clutches (right under where your oil line runs) to the INSIDE of the OUTER driven clutch sheave, you should have roughly 3 1/8". However, it is worth following Dono's advice in the attached link as that 3 1/8 may not apply to everyone. Before you make any changes, I would take this measurement to see where you are.....my guess is you'll be almost 3 1/4". Left uncorrected you'll notice excesse belt dust and reduced life of your belt, amoung other performance issues.
Note that washers (sometimes referred to as shims) are used for alignment (the washers behind the driven) AND for deflection (on the bolt that holds the driven on....assuming you have the udate from Cat. If not, you have a white sheave adjuster to adjust your deflection). I mention this so you do not get confused between adding/subtracting washers for both deflection and alignment.
In the link below, look specifically at post #3 by Dono. In there he describes the best way to ensure your alignment is correct.
http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/index.php...mp;hl=alignment
Bottom line is that when under load, you want the belt running parellel between the drive and driven clutch. From the factory they placed a certain amount of washers behind the driven clutch in an effort to achieve this alignment, or parellelism. However, some of us have found too many washers behind the driven such that is was NOT properly aligned.
In general, if you measure off of the tunnel down by the clutches (right under where your oil line runs) to the INSIDE of the OUTER driven clutch sheave, you should have roughly 3 1/8". However, it is worth following Dono's advice in the attached link as that 3 1/8 may not apply to everyone. Before you make any changes, I would take this measurement to see where you are.....my guess is you'll be almost 3 1/4". Left uncorrected you'll notice excesse belt dust and reduced life of your belt, amoung other performance issues.
Note that washers (sometimes referred to as shims) are used for alignment (the washers behind the driven) AND for deflection (on the bolt that holds the driven on....assuming you have the udate from Cat. If not, you have a white sheave adjuster to adjust your deflection). I mention this so you do not get confused between adding/subtracting washers for both deflection and alignment.
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79 Posts
RFF,
Regarding deflection, I need to know what type of adjuster you have....on the end of the driven. You either have:
1) the original (non-updated) factory plastic sheave adjuster....plastic and white in color that needs the 3 prong tool from the tool kit to turn, or
2) you have the update, which is a bolt roughly 4" long that holds the driven on. "under" the bolt is an aluminum "washer" that is thick. Behind this washer are a series of shims with an o-ring and the end.
Which type do you have?
Regarding deflection, I need to know what type of adjuster you have....on the end of the driven. You either have:
1) the original (non-updated) factory plastic sheave adjuster....plastic and white in color that needs the 3 prong tool from the tool kit to turn, or
2) you have the update, which is a bolt roughly 4" long that holds the driven on. "under" the bolt is an aluminum "washer" that is thick. Behind this washer are a series of shims with an o-ring and the end.
Which type do you have?
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57 Posts
whats a shift assist,do u meen the rollers
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