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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought 2005 AC 400 auto w/ 230 miles. Wont start without restricting air intake until operating temp. Have to keep thumbing it while idling till it warms up. Runs great w plenty of power cold or warm. Starts fine after warmed up. If I let it sit about an hour have to pull off the seat and compress air filter to start it. After reading the post on electric/auto choke issue I wonder if that is my problem but dont know how to access the auto choke or tinker w it.

Another question, small leak coming from rear axle vent tube ( I think that is what it is). small tube coming out of top of axle housing and goes up under battery compartment. Has kind of a rubber bulb at the end of the tube. Seems to be leaking around a small clamp that secures the vent tube (?) to the end bulb. Pretty sure that this fluid is gear lube as it is heavy thick fluid. Dont quite understand why / how that fluid can migrate up that tube and what the heck the bulb is for???

This is my first ATV and I aint no mechanic but gotta start some where.

Thanks for reading and any advise.
 

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It does sound like the electric choke. On the right side bottom of your carb is a primer lever. Give it a couple shots and it will fire up
It's called a bladder and allows for expansion of the fluid when it gets hot. Replace the clamp and I would change the diff fluid
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
AC start problem

Howdy, doorfx,

Thanks much for input. I have tried the bladder lever on the carb but does not do anything. Even tried while running to see if it affects the running but still nothing. I will try again. Wierd that it runs so good when engine is cold or hot. Would BG carb cleaner spray ( already put few oz Seafoam in gas tank) direct into intake possibly loosen / unclog things? Maybe the bladder / diaphram is cracked>compromising the vacum?????

Been trying to look at / for any other issues so can rely on it for elk season next fall. Found inner L front drive axle boot seperated just above small clamp. No grease coming outside of boot dry and clean and very good condition except being completely seperated /torn inboard side of smaller retainer clamp. Shaft doesnt have any slack and no noise when running. All other boots including main drive shafts look like new dry and very clean. > OOPS! Just had a closer look and R front shaft boot looks like its about to break same place as L. Might be better to just buy complete new shafts and save time??

Please hang in there w me. I have seen you all over this forum and u make alot of sense. Wish I would have used my left over GI Bill to take a basic mechanics course. :boohoo:
 

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The rubber bulb is called a bladder
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Howdy,
Talked w local cycle shop about cold start problem. They said that the electric choke was a problem for Arctic Cat which was solved when they went to fuel injection. He said he heard about installing a manual choke in the boot between the carb and the air intake box. Any knowledge concerning this?
Thanks a bunch for the help.
 

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There is a thread on here about swapping the choke with one from Harley Davidson - looks like a solid fix for your problem. A maintenance manual for your bike and some basic hand tools will have you rolling in no time..
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey doorfx > got my boots replaced, oil / filter changed > put new un mixed (no ethanol) gas in tank with double dose of seafoam > runs much smoother (no popping) but still have to use hand over air intake when engine is cold > still have 3/4+ of new gas in tank so will let it run that thru and maybe it will eventually clean out. Any more ideas???
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
since last post been running fine after cleaning carb jets > last week started getting rough again, cleaned jets again and noticed dripping gas out of valve (off,on,reserve). thought it was loose gas line but when took off valve handle noticed gas dripping out of valve body. little metal washer behind cover plate doesnt appear to be compressing correctly. went down to hwd store got a o-ring put it behind valve plate then reinstalled 2 small screws > stopped leaking but cant turn valve handle because rubber o-ring gripping the plate. runs great now but if I dont keep eye on gas level (no guage) then ill be walking out of the Big Horn mtns. Any ideas.?
 
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