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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Just got done putting a new engine in my Arctic Cat 650 V2, followed the service manual 100% but am having problems with it running.

First off, the new motor is a '07 KVF650 out of a kawasaki machine, only 300 miles and very low hours.. Other than swapping out the rear driveshaft, everything was identical, looked and fit correctly according to the service manual.

Got all the new fluids in and fired it up....took a few minutes but it eventually fired right up and idled fine. However when i give it any throttle it backfires through the carb and exhaust and then wants to die unless i work the throttle. I did manage to get it to rev after a few minutes but after that, it doesn't want to idle at all. Swapped out the old plugs, same result. It is also getting hot very quickly, particularly near the exhaust....because of the backfiring i would imagine. All other systems seem to working perfectly. There are no active warning lights, which rules out limp mode.

This engine swap is a first for me....i usually don't do my own work so I'm slowly learning.

Any help would be appreciated, otherwise im thinking about bringing it to my local shop.
 

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Hey guys,

Just got done putting a new engine in my Arctic Cat 650 V2, followed the service manual 100% but am having problems with it running.

First off, the new motor is a '07 KVF650 out of a kawasaki machine, only 300 miles and very low hours.. Other than swapping out the rear driveshaft, everything was identical, looked and fit correctly according to the service manual.

Got all the new fluids in and fired it up....took a few minutes but it eventually fired right up and idled fine. However when i give it any throttle it backfires through the carb and exhaust and then wants to die unless i work the throttle. I did manage to get it to rev after a few minutes but after that, it doesn't want to idle at all. Swapped out the old plugs, same result. It is also getting hot very quickly, particularly near the exhaust....because of the backfiring i would imagine. All other systems seem to working perfectly. There are no active warning lights, which rules out limp mode.

This engine swap is a first for me....i usually don't do my own work so I'm slowly learning.

Any help would be appreciated, otherwise im thinking about bringing it to my local shop.
Kawasaki motor...great choice!
 

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Sounds like carb issues. The most common problem is the choke plungers sticking. What color was the front and rear plugs.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like carb issues. The most common problem is the choke plungers sticking. What color was the front and rear plugs.
Plugs we're getting blackened. Haven't checked the new ones I put in yet.

Fired right up today and idled great, but dies when you give her.

Now that you mention the choke plungers, my choke did quit working before my buddy blew up the old motor. However before it was blown, the old motor ran perfect even without the choke. I had already planned on replacing the cables and lever, both of which are ordered and on the way as of Saturday.

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It’s the plungers in the carb that are the problem. It’s not really a choke it’s a fuel enricher. Over fueling will cause black plugs and running hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It’s the plungers in the carb that are the problem. It’s not really a choke it’s a fuel enricher. Over fueling will cause black plugs and running hot.
Best course of action? I'm guessing a thorough cleaning is best, or would you recommend getting a kit and rebuilding it?

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A good cleaning usually does it. There are good carb kits for it that will increase performance.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
A good cleaning usually does it. There are good carb kits for it that will increase performance.
I like the sound of that. Which kits should I consider if I go that route?

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Dynatek power module is a real performance upgrade.
 
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Read this.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Read this.

Some pretty good information on there but I don't know if I'm going to go too crazy like he did....

I did tear into the carburetor last night and oh my gosh there were more boogers in there than a toddler's nose. Some of that fuel that was left in there was gelled up so bad it actually caused the floats to stick and as you can imagine my main Jets were pretty well plugged up.

Got a moose kit in the mail so I'm hoping that rebuild will do the trick.

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Hey guys,

Just got done putting a new engine in my Arctic Cat 650 V2, followed the service manual 100% but am having problems with it running.

First off, the new motor is a '07 KVF650 out of a kawasaki machine, only 300 miles and very low hours.. Other than swapping out the rear driveshaft, everything was identical, looked and fit correctly according to the service manual.

Got all the new fluids in and fired it up....took a few minutes but it eventually fired right up and idled fine. However when i give it any throttle it backfires through the carb and exhaust and then wants to die unless i work the throttle. I did manage to get it to rev after a few minutes but after that, it doesn't want to idle at all. Swapped out the old plugs, same result. It is also getting hot very quickly, particularly near the exhaust....because of the backfiring i would imagine. All other systems seem to working perfectly. There are no active warning lights, which rules out limp mode.

This engine swap is a first for me....i usually don't do my own work so I'm slowly learning.

Any help would be appreciated, otherwise im thinking about bringing it to my local shop.
Make sure your running it with the air cleaner completely intact. These engingines will
Hey guys,

Just got done putting a new engine in my Arctic Cat 650 V2, followed the service manual 100% but am having problems with it running.

First off, the new motor is a '07 KVF650 out of a kawasaki machine, only 300 miles and very low hours.. Other than swapping out the rear driveshaft, everything was identical, looked and fit correctly according to the service manual.

Got all the new fluids in and fired it up....took a few minutes but it eventually fired right up and idled fine. However when i give it any throttle it backfires through the carb and exhaust and then wants to die unless i work the throttle. I did manage to get it to rev after a few minutes but after that, it doesn't want to idle at all. Swapped out the old plugs, same result. It is also getting hot very quickly, particularly near the exhaust....because of the backfiring i would imagine. All other systems seem to working perfectly. There are no active warning lights, which rules out limp mode.

This engine swap is a first for me....i usually don't do my own work so I'm slowly learning.

Any help would be appreciated, otherwise im thinking about bringing it to my local shop.
Make sure you are running it with the air cleaner on and completely intact. These will run like crap without it
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Snapshot of some of the crud in that carb.


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Snapshot of some of the crud in that carb.


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To keep that slime from building up in the future try using this fuel stabilizer in the off season, my A/C dealership recommended it; and they use it in their lineup of side by side’s, quads in the off season. They also use it in their snowmobiles, as do I in the off season.
367542
 

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Discussion Starter #19
To keep that slime from building up in the future try using this fuel stabilizer in the off season, my A/C dealership recommended it; and they use it in their lineup of side by side’s, quads in the off season. They also use it in their snowmobiles, as do I in the off season. View attachment 367542
Thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind.

I also forgot to mention that this machine has been sitting broken for a year and a half. Otherwise I use it year round, riding and work in the warmer seasons, plowing and ice fishing in the cold seasons. So normally it's never sitting long enough to congeal like this.

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Thanks for the tip, I'll keep that in mind.

I also forgot to mention that this machine has been sitting broken for a year and a half. Otherwise I use it year round, riding and work in the warmer seasons, plowing and ice fishing in the cold seasons. So normally it's never sitting long enough to congeal like this.

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Stabilizer is also used to neutralize ice in fuel cell and turn it into a burn able fuel that won’t do damage to your engine, this additive is not your average gas line antifreeze. It was first developed for marine use, having water in a fuel cell in a boat can lead to being stranded hundreds of miles from shore...not a great place to be in adverse weather conditions with a engine that has been disabled by water in the fuel system. There have been a few videos posted on line of burn tests done of different gas line antifreezes, the product that I have stabilizer/conditioner/antifreeze burns clean, no black smoke. The small bottle that I showed holds 59ml. or 2 Fl. oz. and treats 75lts. or 20 gallons of fuel. Good for 2 stroke/4 stroke engines. It’s a little pricey at my A/C dealership...$6.99+tax for that small bottle, but I don’t use to much in my sled; table spoon per fill up.
 
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