2004 TRV 500 bogs/sputters after new carb

1243 Views 27 Replies 5 Participants Last post by MNkittykat, 5 h ago

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · 16 d ago (Edited)

Ok peeps. Finally signed up after lurking because I’m just stumped. I own an 02 500i(red) 04 TRV 500, and 04 dvx 400. I threw a kit in the 500i last year and it’s running great but I had a lot of leftovers in that kit. This winter I was running the tvr and plowing. It started running very poorly and not starting well. So this spring. I looked at ordering a kit for the TRV. Well I saw a niche china carb with electric choke for 50 bucks new so I pulled the trigger. Got it in and she fired right up like new. Problem is that I give any throttle, she spits and sputters and backfires, and I’m eventually able to get it up to pretty for throttle, but it’s not right I have new gas in there a new plug seafoam in there and still the same issue so I took it off, and I took all the extra pieces I had in the kit for the 500i and through it at the factory carb. new gasket, new little diaphragm, spring main jet secondary jet I did not have a new pilot jet but I cleaned out the old one and it seemed fine. I put the factory carb back on and it did start up much better than it did before but now I’m having the same issue with giving it any throttle and it’s spitting sputtering and backfiring and honestly I’ve taken this thing apart so many times I just don’t know what I’m doing wrong . Any help would be awesome. I’m in the twin cities

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

doorfx

· #2 · 15 d ago

Check your charging voltage at the battery when it is running. Let us know

2013 700 XT TRV EPS :
28" Bighorns on bed linered 08 Prowler rims , Wireless winch remote, 3000LB. Warn winch, Heated front and rear grips, Cat relay wiring harness for accessories, LED light bar, 08 650 trv LTD rear box, Heated rear seat, Elka stage 3 shocks all 4 corners, Aftermarket A-arm bushings, aftermarket sway bar bushings(prototype), Deluxe brush guard bumpers front and rear, Red anodized Hause fairlead, beverage opener winch hook, Synthetic winch rope, RTR motor mount bushings, Dynojet PC5 programmer, Dynojet Autotune, [/B]

07 500 Gone but not forgotten;
Dynojet/142m/45p/3rd/3turns--Clipped and drilled--Unifilter--Easy adjust PMS--L.C.V. mod--AC Swaybar--Exhaust mod--2"Snorkels--Sanny shock bushings-- Airdam stage 1--PSC phase 2--21/ 23gr rollers--Dalton yellow spring--.7mm shim--Sanny Steerlites--RTR Flex Bracket--2 up seat / pegs--Tach--AC handguards--28" Outlaw mst's--Skull tailight--Skull shifter--Self Resetting Breakers--1" Wheel spacers--Customcncparts Steering Damper--AC deluxe handwarmers--6000k HID'S hi/lo--AC Deluxe Bumpers--Inline Fuel Filter-- O2 sensor \AFR guage--Black Magic Full Stainless Exhaust System--Wireless Winch Remote--29.5 Outlaws--Fox Podium X Rear Shocks--

It's mind over matter,If you don't mind,
It just doesn't matterCat happy

No Boost No Bottle
just balls and throttle

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · #3 · 14 d ago

doorfx said:
Check your charging voltage at the battery when it is running. Let us know

Well my voltmeter from hobo freight won’t lock down a set number. It’s bouncing from 13.5 to 18 lol

doorfx

· #4 · 12 d ago

It may be your voltage regulator is shot

2013 700 XT TRV EPS :
28" Bighorns on bed linered 08 Prowler rims , Wireless winch remote, 3000LB. Warn winch, Heated front and rear grips, Cat relay wiring harness for accessories, LED light bar, 08 650 trv LTD rear box, Heated rear seat, Elka stage 3 shocks all 4 corners, Aftermarket A-arm bushings, aftermarket sway bar bushings(prototype), Deluxe brush guard bumpers front and rear, Red anodized Hause fairlead, beverage opener winch hook, Synthetic winch rope, RTR motor mount bushings, Dynojet PC5 programmer, Dynojet Autotune, [/B]

07 500 Gone but not forgotten;
Dynojet/142m/45p/3rd/3turns--Clipped and drilled--Unifilter--Easy adjust PMS--L.C.V. mod--AC Swaybar--Exhaust mod--2"Snorkels--Sanny shock bushings-- Airdam stage 1--PSC phase 2--21/ 23gr rollers--Dalton yellow spring--.7mm shim--Sanny Steerlites--RTR Flex Bracket--2 up seat / pegs--Tach--AC handguards--28" Outlaw mst's--Skull tailight--Skull shifter--Self Resetting Breakers--1" Wheel spacers--Customcncparts Steering Damper--AC deluxe handwarmers--6000k HID'S hi/lo--AC Deluxe Bumpers--Inline Fuel Filter-- O2 sensor \AFR guage--Black Magic Full Stainless Exhaust System--Wireless Winch Remote--29.5 Outlaws--Fox Podium X Rear Shocks--

It's mind over matter,If you don't mind,
It just doesn't matterCat happy

No Boost No Bottle
just balls and throttle

Reactions: 1

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · #5 · 12 d ago (Edited)

doorfx said:
It may be your voltage regulator is shot

Possibly. I was having issues with the winch letting it out. Like the lights, digital dash, annd instruments flicker and it almost dies when I let the winch out. Doesn’t do it when I bring it in. I figured that was the winch relay and was going to check that but maybe it’s regulator? Also, it might be a 2005(dark green) because it has the digital dash instruments and not a 2004. I’m not sure if that makes a difference.

doorfx

· #6 · 12 d ago (Edited)

Check your meter on your car or truck. If you get a consistent voltage when running , it’s not your meter. VR/Rectifier is a cheap part.

2013 700 XT TRV EPS :
28" Bighorns on bed linered 08 Prowler rims , Wireless winch remote, 3000LB. Warn winch, Heated front and rear grips, Cat relay wiring harness for accessories, LED light bar, 08 650 trv LTD rear box, Heated rear seat, Elka stage 3 shocks all 4 corners, Aftermarket A-arm bushings, aftermarket sway bar bushings(prototype), Deluxe brush guard bumpers front and rear, Red anodized Hause fairlead, beverage opener winch hook, Synthetic winch rope, RTR motor mount bushings, Dynojet PC5 programmer, Dynojet Autotune, [/B]

07 500 Gone but not forgotten;
Dynojet/142m/45p/3rd/3turns--Clipped and drilled--Unifilter--Easy adjust PMS--L.C.V. mod--AC Swaybar--Exhaust mod--2"Snorkels--Sanny shock bushings-- Airdam stage 1--PSC phase 2--21/ 23gr rollers--Dalton yellow spring--.7mm shim--Sanny Steerlites--RTR Flex Bracket--2 up seat / pegs--Tach--AC handguards--28" Outlaw mst's--Skull tailight--Skull shifter--Self Resetting Breakers--1" Wheel spacers--Customcncparts Steering Damper--AC deluxe handwarmers--6000k HID'S hi/lo--AC Deluxe Bumpers--Inline Fuel Filter-- O2 sensor \AFR guage--Black Magic Full Stainless Exhaust System--Wireless Winch Remote--29.5 Outlaws--Fox Podium X Rear Shocks--

It's mind over matter,If you don't mind,
It just doesn't matterCat happy

No Boost No Bottle
just balls and throttle

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · #7 · 12 d ago

doorfx said:
Check your meter on your car or truck. If you get a consistent voltage when running , it’s not your meter. VR/Rectifier is a cheap part.

I’m pretty sure that you’re onto something. I did just use the meter and It was just fine but I’ll check when I get home. Remembering the winch issues, I went ahead and ordered a cheapy rectifier off Amazon with good reviews about the unit and plugs for arctic cat to get here tomorrow. Fingers crossed

Reactions: 1

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · #8 · 8 d ago

doorfx said:
Check your meter on your car or truck. If you get a consistent voltage when running , it’s not your meter. VR/Rectifier is a cheap part.

Well, I got the voltage regulator on Friday was pretty excited to put it in only you did absolutely nothing same exact symptoms

Tacopashka

· #9 · 8 d ago

Pennywise75 said:
Well, I got the voltage regulator on Friday was pretty excited to put it in only you did absolutely nothing same exact symptoms

Possibly your stator or flywheel? I know the 400’s have the issue with magnets coming loose and causing issues with starting and running. If you haven’t upgraded it, that could be one of the things? In order to test the voltages you need a DVA. Otherwise you could ohm out the 3 pins I believe and see if they give you the correct readings. AC manual shows the correct ohm readings you should get.
But it could also just be that you got a Amazon part..I would go OEM if you can. Ebay has good used parts. Just go OEM I don’t think they’re crazy expensive..shouldn’t be.

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · #10 · 7 d ago

Tacopashka said:
Possibly your stator or flywheel? I know the 400’s have the issue with magnets coming loose and causing issues with starting and running. If you haven’t upgraded it, that could be one of the things? In order to test the voltages you need a DVA. Otherwise you could ohm out the 3 pins I believe and see if they give you the correct readings. AC manual shows the correct ohm readings you should get.
But it could also just be that you got a Amazon part..I would go OEM if you can. Ebay has good used parts. Just go OEM I don’t think they’re crazy expensive..shouldn’t be.

The part was 26 bucks so no biggie. I’d rather not return it just get a more expensive part and have the same result. It actually starts strong like it should with the new carb. I did put in new jets O-rings, small diaphragm air fuel mix needle in the factory carb and tried to put it back on but it still started like crap so the electric choke might be bad in that but with both carbs, the second that you give it any throttle and it bogs and spits. I’m about ready to throw in the towel and bring it to somebody that actually knows what they’re doing with small engines so if anybody knows a decent place in the Twin Cities, that’s not gonna take me to the cleaners I’d like to bring it there this week so I could have it going by memorial day if possible.

Reactions: 1

Tacopashka

· #11 · 7 d ago

Pennywise75 said:
The part was 26 bucks so no biggie. I’d rather not return it just get a more expensive part and have the same result. It actually starts strong like it should with the new carb. I did put in new jets O-rings, small diaphragm air fuel mix needle in the factory carb and tried to put it back on but it still started like crap so the electric choke might be bad in that but with both carbs, the second that you give it any throttle and it bogs and spits. I’m about ready to throw in the towel and bring it to somebody that actually knows what they’re doing with small engines so if anybody knows a decent place in the Twin Cities, that’s not gonna take me to the cleaners I’d like to bring it there this week so I could have it going by memorial day if possible.

Yeah it could be that electronic choke, I haven’t figured out how it works yet either.. no good information online may have to look through the repair manuals.
So, the other carb that you had put on actually came with a new already installed choke? You just had to plug it up?
Honestly I think it’s worth messing with the air/fuel screw..you’re almost there. The dang thing starts and idles, you are just missing one little thing.

Tacopashka

· #12 · 7 d ago

www.arcticchat.com

Arctic Cat 500 problems

Ive got a 2007 Arctic Cat 500 auto 4wd,with just over 500 miles(purchased the machine used), thats been having some problems. Im running in 8-10k elavations, stock tires, ect. The problem(s) Im having are as follows. My machine bogs down badly and struggles to hold 18mph on gravel roads with...

www.arcticchat.com

www.arcticchat.com

Idk the extend of your research, but this fella back in 2008 found that the connector for auto choke was bad somehow..not many details given but he figured out his problem when riding high altitudes. Read through the forum send above..

doorfx

· #13 · 7 d ago

You are in this year range as mentioned

www.arcticchat.com

Arctic Cat 400 Intermittent Spark Video (Flywheel Issues)

Hey guys, Here is a video I shot on troubleshooting an intermittent spark problem I had on a customer's 400 4X4 automatic. Hope this maybe helps someone down the road. Link to video below,

www.arcticchat.com

www.arcticchat.com

2013 700 XT TRV EPS :
28" Bighorns on bed linered 08 Prowler rims , Wireless winch remote, 3000LB. Warn winch, Heated front and rear grips, Cat relay wiring harness for accessories, LED light bar, 08 650 trv LTD rear box, Heated rear seat, Elka stage 3 shocks all 4 corners, Aftermarket A-arm bushings, aftermarket sway bar bushings(prototype), Deluxe brush guard bumpers front and rear, Red anodized Hause fairlead, beverage opener winch hook, Synthetic winch rope, RTR motor mount bushings, Dynojet PC5 programmer, Dynojet Autotune, [/B]

07 500 Gone but not forgotten;
Dynojet/142m/45p/3rd/3turns--Clipped and drilled--Unifilter--Easy adjust PMS--L.C.V. mod--AC Swaybar--Exhaust mod--2"Snorkels--Sanny shock bushings-- Airdam stage 1--PSC phase 2--21/ 23gr rollers--Dalton yellow spring--.7mm shim--Sanny Steerlites--RTR Flex Bracket--2 up seat / pegs--Tach--AC handguards--28" Outlaw mst's--Skull tailight--Skull shifter--Self Resetting Breakers--1" Wheel spacers--Customcncparts Steering Damper--AC deluxe handwarmers--6000k HID'S hi/lo--AC Deluxe Bumpers--Inline Fuel Filter-- O2 sensor \AFR guage--Black Magic Full Stainless Exhaust System--Wireless Winch Remote--29.5 Outlaws--Fox Podium X Rear Shocks--

It's mind over matter,If you don't mind,
It just doesn't matterCat happy

No Boost No Bottle
just balls and throttle

doorfx

· #14 · 7 d ago

Check your voltage at the battery again.

2013 700 XT TRV EPS :
28" Bighorns on bed linered 08 Prowler rims , Wireless winch remote, 3000LB. Warn winch, Heated front and rear grips, Cat relay wiring harness for accessories, LED light bar, 08 650 trv LTD rear box, Heated rear seat, Elka stage 3 shocks all 4 corners, Aftermarket A-arm bushings, aftermarket sway bar bushings(prototype), Deluxe brush guard bumpers front and rear, Red anodized Hause fairlead, beverage opener winch hook, Synthetic winch rope, RTR motor mount bushings, Dynojet PC5 programmer, Dynojet Autotune, [/B]

07 500 Gone but not forgotten;
Dynojet/142m/45p/3rd/3turns--Clipped and drilled--Unifilter--Easy adjust PMS--L.C.V. mod--AC Swaybar--Exhaust mod--2"Snorkels--Sanny shock bushings-- Airdam stage 1--PSC phase 2--21/ 23gr rollers--Dalton yellow spring--.7mm shim--Sanny Steerlites--RTR Flex Bracket--2 up seat / pegs--Tach--AC handguards--28" Outlaw mst's--Skull tailight--Skull shifter--Self Resetting Breakers--1" Wheel spacers--Customcncparts Steering Damper--AC deluxe handwarmers--6000k HID'S hi/lo--AC Deluxe Bumpers--Inline Fuel Filter-- O2 sensor \AFR guage--Black Magic Full Stainless Exhaust System--Wireless Winch Remote--29.5 Outlaws--Fox Podium X Rear Shocks--

It's mind over matter,If you don't mind,
It just doesn't matterCat happy

No Boost No Bottle
just balls and throttle

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · #15 · 7 d ago (Edited)

Tacopashka said:
Yeah it could be that electronic choke, I haven’t figured out how it works yet either.. no good information online may have to look through the repair manuals.
So, the other carb that you had put on actually came with a new already installed choke? You just had to plug it up?
Honestly I think it’s worth messing with the air/fuel screw..you’re almost there. The dang thing starts and idles, you are just missing one little thing.

Yeah, the other carb came with the automatic choke installed and like I said fires up and runs just fine so I was initially pretty excited up to about an eighth of a throttle… I did mess with the air fuel screw factory says all the way in and then back almost to turns and that’s what I said it as initially on both carbs but really it has no impact on the way that it’s running right now there’s definitely something up. I can give it to about eighth of a throttle and it sounds like get it up to about a few thousand RPM before it starts to bog out so I can move it around and can’t get it going up to about 15 miles an hour stop before I start having issues.

Reactions: 1

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · #16 · 7 d ago

doorfx said:
You are in this year range as mentioned

Arctic Cat 400 Intermittent Spark Video (Flywheel Issues)

Hey guys, Here is a video I shot on troubleshooting an intermittent spark problem I had on a customer's 400 4X4 automatic. Hope this maybe helps someone down the road. Link to video below,

www.arcticchat.com

I guess that is a possibility but the 400 and 500 are completely different motors and everything I’ve read about that magnet stater issue doesn’t apply to liquid cooled motors but what do I know? Like I said, I’m almost to the point I was just trying to bring it in somewhere.

Reactions: 1

doorfx

· #17 · 7 d ago

Sorry reading to many threads lol I thought it was a 400. Disregard.

2013 700 XT TRV EPS :
28" Bighorns on bed linered 08 Prowler rims , Wireless winch remote, 3000LB. Warn winch, Heated front and rear grips, Cat relay wiring harness for accessories, LED light bar, 08 650 trv LTD rear box, Heated rear seat, Elka stage 3 shocks all 4 corners, Aftermarket A-arm bushings, aftermarket sway bar bushings(prototype), Deluxe brush guard bumpers front and rear, Red anodized Hause fairlead, beverage opener winch hook, Synthetic winch rope, RTR motor mount bushings, Dynojet PC5 programmer, Dynojet Autotune, [/B]

07 500 Gone but not forgotten;
Dynojet/142m/45p/3rd/3turns--Clipped and drilled--Unifilter--Easy adjust PMS--L.C.V. mod--AC Swaybar--Exhaust mod--2"Snorkels--Sanny shock bushings-- Airdam stage 1--PSC phase 2--21/ 23gr rollers--Dalton yellow spring--.7mm shim--Sanny Steerlites--RTR Flex Bracket--2 up seat / pegs--Tach--AC handguards--28" Outlaw mst's--Skull tailight--Skull shifter--Self Resetting Breakers--1" Wheel spacers--Customcncparts Steering Damper--AC deluxe handwarmers--6000k HID'S hi/lo--AC Deluxe Bumpers--Inline Fuel Filter-- O2 sensor \AFR guage--Black Magic Full Stainless Exhaust System--Wireless Winch Remote--29.5 Outlaws--Fox Podium X Rear Shocks--

It's mind over matter,If you don't mind,
It just doesn't matterCat happy

No Boost No Bottle
just balls and throttle

Tacopashka

· #18 · 7 d ago

In this case, you definitely have some timing off. Have you checked TDC position and made sure piston is at very top?
Once you check that out do a leak down test at TDC. Pressure should hold good in the chamber with valves closed at TDC. If you hear leakage, your valves are out of spec. Use your eyes and ears. That’s it you’re willing to do it.
My money is on valves now.

Pennywise75

Discussion Starter · #19 · 7 d ago

Tacopashka said:
In this case, you definitely have some timing off. Have you checked TDC position and made sure piston is at very top?
Once you check that out do a leak down test at TDC. Pressure should hold good in the chamber with valves closed at TDC. If you hear leakage, your valves are out of spec. Use your eyes and ears. That’s it you’re willing to do it.
My money is on valves now.

My man I wish I had the confidence to know where TDC on which stroke it is or how to perform a leak down test and what tools needed to do that. Or how to adjust the valves.

Tacopashka

· #20 · 7 d ago

Pennywise75 said:
My man I wish I had the confidence to know where TDC on which stroke it is or how to perform a leak down test and what tools needed to do that. Or how to adjust the valves.

You’re on a forum asking for help, and obviously want to save money. Forums are great for this. The information is out there, you just need to apply it.
Especially if you ain’t rich you gotta do it yourself. If you are rich, then save yourself the time and hassle of research and sweat and tears and take it in to a reputable shop.
It’s as simple as that. I’m just here trying to throw ideas at you.

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