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Hey everyone. Bought my used 04 400 4X4 Automatic in early April 2020... changed oil/ cleaned air filter, topped off oil in differentials. I have been using it for some pasture spraying for past 2 months. Have a 12 V sprayer direct wired which I unplug when not in use.
Has always started without fail. Never any issues, except I've noticed that it runs warm, but still never died or anything. Have researched fan diode/ temp switch and planned to check into that due to it running warm and fan never kicking on. Never get a temp light.... but maybe that is just plain not working.

Anyway, used for 8 hours Friday...several breaks..throughout the day... started when needed all day long.... again no issues.... except legs getting warm (no temp light)... pulled into the yard at end of day and cut it off because neighbor pulled in to chat..... went to start it to pull into shed.... nothing.... No neutral light, no crank. I have headlights, I have winch operation. I did notice that it was really hot..... Checked the kill switch, tried with hand / foot break depressed, shifted a few gears and back to neutral..... still no crank. Tried the manual pull start till blue in the face... nothing. Figured it had overheated and It needed a good couple hours to cool off. Didn't have time to troubleshoot, just pushed it into the shed.
Have used for similar amount of time most every weekend that I go out spraying - 6-8 hours on warm days with no issues. Friday was one of the cooler days.

Went back to check on it yesterday (on my farm place a ways from me)..... same... headlights, winch, sprayer good to go. Nothing else has changed - no N, H, L lights on panel , no crank, wont start manually either.
Fuse? melted casing? frayed wires along steering column? Bad kill switch or ignition switch? (wouldn't I still see N light then? ) Plan to spend some time trouble shooting this weekend - or load it up and bring it home to do more trouble shooting.

Thanks for suggestions of where to start.
DJ
 

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Start with the fuse box.
 

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I have moved this to the correct forum.
 

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Ok, As doorfx said, start with the fuse box, main fuse could be blown, if the main fuse is blown grab a few spares, test one see if it blows again. if it does you've got a chafed wire someplace, I went digging through my 04 400 auto just last month chasing a wiring gremlin, as you suggested check the steering column. My short to ground was behind the fuel shutoff against the frame rail, if you unbolt front fender and remove it, remove side panels, and fuel tank, there is 2 major chunks of wiring harness running down the right leg side of the machine and they aren't protected or secured very well, I had to cut a wire out on mine and splice in a new section of 8" wire. When mine happened it was strange, it was running fine, BAM nothing, dead, messed with it for 10 min, started, drove it home. looked around a bit, went to use it again, 100yrd from house, bam dead. that was just MY experience and others will be different. I recommend when digging into it to look over your entire visible harness and cover what you can with plastic wire loom as after 16 yrs the factory hockey tape is probably mostly rotten/gone.

Fuse box is in rear right fender well under a plastic cover with butterfly things holding it on, turn the butterfly things vertical and the cover pops off.

As for your fan, the 04 400s run alot warmer than one would assume as they are oil cooled, but you can wire a bypass switch to your fan easily and test it, also check your fan fuse, my fan motor seized solid on mine this spring after 16 years of abuse. Spal 30100435 10" Curved Blade Puller Fan, Fans - Amazon Canada is a direct replacement fan same as the one Cat sells, I recommend using SPAL as they are a high end brand and your last one lasted 16 years, All balls makes a knock-off fan but doesn't boast water/dust proof in their listings. I'm sure you can find a SPAL closer to home, the only thing that wasn't correct on it was the plug end. Cole Hersee 11172-BX 2 Pole Connector: Amazon.ca: Automotive is the style of plug end that cat uses, most industrial distributors sell these Cole hersee kits for like $9, I usually have a half dozen on hand because i use them EVERYWHERE. Fan Fuses blow ALL the time, it just takes someone hitting water with the fan on and typically the fuse will blow, check the fuse.

if you buy a couple of those connector kits, you can make a T connection pigtail with a bit of time, heat shrink and butt connectors, it gives you a spot to splice into your harness without actually touching your factory harness portion, the fan is actuated on the ground side, and is always powered, so your thermal switch just closes the ground to turn on your fan. What this means for your T connector is you make a T, run a single wire down the frame to someplace you can mount a switch (I used right side right in the edge of fender/side panel) add a switch, run wire from switch to either your belt cover bolt (when looking at belt case, top left bolt will have your ground to frame mounted under it) or to your battery. I went with belt drive bolt to alleviate another battery connection. If you do the T connection correctly your fan will still turn on and off with the thermal switch if it is working, but you can also manually force it to turn on and leave it run if you would rather try and keep engine temps lower on a hotter day.

If you haven't already, look into self resetting circuit breakers, most guys on here swap all their fuses out to self reseting circuit breakers so they are usually never left stranded.

Welcome to the forum, I hope we can help get you rolling again.
 

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Have you tried the recoil starter?
 
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