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Hi all, first time poster, I've looked through a lot of threads, thanks to all the contributors here for the wealth of information... has helped me out a lot.

I have a 2004 400 4x4 Automatic that won't start. Based on the service manual I downloaded and my research in this forum, here's what I've done and found. Special thanks to Wyo_H1_Cat for his detailed procedure in this post.

I'd appreciate if anyone can take a look and confirm what I think the problem is. I initially thought it was the ignition coil, but now I'm thinking it's the stator.

Overall problem is not getting any spark. It cranks over and over and won't start, both with electric start and manual pull.

- Ignition and kill switch is on
- Fuel selector on and confirmed fuel is flowing
- Battery connections good
- Have a brand new battery that works good
- Tried 2 spark plugs, still won't start
- Looked at all fuses in fusebox, all good

I pulled the spark plug, reconnected it to the spark plug wire, set it down, turned off the garage lights, and started cranking with the electric start and then the manual pull crank. Did it both ways probably 50 times each and actually saw a spark at random probably only once or twice using both methods.

Started testing procedures based on the service manual and stuff I've read in this forum.

Resistance Test

- Ignition coil primary, I got 0.6 ohm (spec says should be between 0.4 - 0.6 ohm)
- Ignition coil secondary, I got 6800 ohms (spec says 5200 - 7800 ohms)
- Spark plug cap, I got 9500 ohms (spec 8000 - 12000 ohms)
- Magneto trigger, I got 186 (spec 160 - 240 ohms)
- Magneto source, I got 0.2, which is slightly high (spec 0.08 - 0.12 ohm)
- Magneto charging, I got 0.6, which is slightly high (spec 0.32 - 0.48 ohm)

Voltage Test

(I don't have a Fluke so I used my multimeter, it's a pretty decent one. I have a second multimeter that's a little cheaper that I used as backup and results came out about the same. Please tell me if there is a reason I must use a Fluke)

- Ignition coil, primary side, with ignition on and kill switch in 'run' position, measure against the white/blue wire that goes up to ignition coil with multimeter on DC voltage... spec says I should see 31V +/- 20%, but what I got was 308V - 310V !!! This seems suspect and doesn't make much sense to me. I then depressed the starter button and spec says I should see 130V +/- 20%, but what I got was basically the same 308V - 310V. Not sure what to think about this... any ideas?

- Magneto coil, I unplugged and used the two plugs coming from the left side trans case where the stator/magneto is... service manual says to set meter on DC voltage, but when I did, got no results. Wyo_H1_Cat's procedure mentioned it was AC voltage.

- service manual specs say you're suppose to get this: magneto trigger 5.04 - 7.56 volts; magneto source 0.7 - 1.05 volts; magneto charging 12.5 - 18.6 volts. Should this be AC or DC or does it matter?

- Here's what I got from my multimeter: Magneto trigger, I got 0.2V on AC which is low. Magneto source, I got 0.8V - 1V AC which is in range. Magneto charging, I got 3V - 4V AC, which is low.

- I plugged the connectors back in then when and unplugged the large connector into the CDI and did the same testing based on wiring diagram and got same results as above. I did also test the main power coming into the CDI and it is getting adequate voltage.


So what the heck does all this mean? Ignition coil bad, stator bad, magneto bad, CDI bad? I'm very curious about the high voltage showing to the ignition coil primary wire.

Please chime in with your input. I'm cheap and pretty handy so I'd rather do as much troubleshooting as I can than take it into a stealership and pay a couple grand. I suppose my next step is to drain the oil, pull the left side case and look at the stator/magneto.

Let me know your thoughts... thanks!


-Brian
 

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Pretty common Problem on the 400 is the magnets fall off the flywheel. That is where I would start. There are a ton of threadsnon here about this issue
 

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You don't have to use a Fluke, Fluke is only a brand of very nice and expensive multimeter's, Electricians,Car mech's and Avionics Technicians use Fluke, the one I want is $250 but it will pay for its self.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay, so got the left side cover off and sure enough, the magnets had fallen off the flywheel! Ticks me off, I didn't want to believe it could happen to me! :wacko: Amazes me to think that something as big of a pain as this is a common problem... what the heck happened in their mfg process to mess this up.

Time to replace the flywheel and I'll probably replace the stator as well... it looks nasty and had some of the magnets stuck to it.

See attached pics...

One other question I guess... service manual says to use a magneto remover/adaptor to get the flywheel off... any way around using that tool?

b
 

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Did you get it fixed? going thru the same problem but still having issues. Replace fly wheel with new and improved and it is still having problems. Firing but seems erratic.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, replaced the flywheel as well as the stator and ignition coil. With how nasty looking the stator was from all the magnet shrapnel, i figured it a good idea to go ahead and replace while i had it open.

Aside from flywheel and stator, if your spark is erratic, your coil might be jacked. Might go ahead and check your spark plug gap and consider replacing the plug if it's old.
 

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Also check the connection between coil and wire and wire and boot
 

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Okay so we solved the issue on ours. In all our checking wires and connections before we found out we had a bad flywheel two wires coming from the pickup or aka trigger coil got switched accidentally before they go to the cdi. There is a green and blue wire on one side of the plug and green and blue striped wires on the other side found the mistake and put them back and now its runs. All this because Suzuki can't design a flywheel correctly. So problem solved and its alive again. Relief!
 
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