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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,Just looking for some opinions on doing a oil injection delete,Is it as simple as cutting and plugging the oil lines?Will the water pump gear still receive lubrication?or is it self contained?I don't wanna hear why do you want to do it,its so messy or anything like that,I mix gas in my doo 380,in my KX500,in my kids 50 mini's,Im old fashioned and feel more at ease knowing the oil is getting where it needs to be,I recently aquired this MC900 for peanuts from a owner who thinks throwing money at problems will instantly cure everything,It has melted down the same piston and cylinder twice within a hour of being rebuilt,I tried telling him that he has fuel or oil delivery problems but some people just can't listen,The crankshaft is new,oil seals are new,waterpump is pumping,everything seems to be normal but that one side keeps coming out looking like it is getting zero lubrication,I plan on buying a new fuel pump,new carbs,a new cylinder/piston and running mix gas,any info/experience on doing a oil injection delete will help,thank you
 

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It's not that difficult to do. If you've got the motor apart, I'd drill a hole down from one side into the water pump passage. That will allow it to get some lube.

If you don't want to do that, a lot of people just pack the shaft with grease and ignore it.

Some also put a small oil bottle with a line to the block-off plate, and just let it gravity feed a little.

Others put a grease zerk on there, and give it a shot every few rides.

All should work with no issues.

As for an alternative, we've put the EFI oil pumps on most of our carb sleds. These inject the oil just after the carbs, rather than into the fuel pump. This way, if you have a plugged jet or something, you don't lose your oil also.

I do agree that mixing gas is not as big a pain as it's made out to be.
 

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Cutler has a block off plate for that motor for $25 that has a zerk on it, you just pump some grease in every few rides.
 

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Why not diagnose the problem, before you throw all those new parts at it?
What side piston?
Jetting/ elevation?
Coolant properly filled?
Lots of could be's
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Why not diagnose the problem, before you throw all those new parts at it?
What side piston?
Jetting/ elevation?
Coolant properly filled?
Lots of could be's
I am going to go through the engine/carbs and fuel pump to try and see what is causing it to burn down but I am set on doing the injection delete no matter what I find,I am mechanically inclined and will at a minimum replace the cylinder and piston,no point in putting junk parts back on a good engine,Im sure the fuel pump will be ok,its not to often they are a trouble area,These rack mount carbs from my experience can be a major PITA once they have been taken apart and screwed with by someone who don't got a clue what they are doing And you are very right there is alot of could be's.The PTO side is the problem,I honestly don't know where the jetting is at right now,I havn't even got the time to turn a wrench right now,I'm pretty bogged down with work,I do know the guy I got it from was screwin with the carbs turnin the air and fuel mixture screws and pullin them apart without a clue to what he was doing but this was after the initial meltdown.I am sitting right at sea level and the sled will be driven at tops 1000ft above,its pretty flat here,the sled obiously won't be climbing any mountains,lol,It came from Wainright,Alberta,Canada from what I consider to be a reputable Cat dealer in Canada "Dons Speed Parts" and the problems started right outta the gate,It came in on the plane,started and had some pretty bad surging goin on,it seized within the hour,my guess is that it was jetted for high altitude which Alberta has plenty of and perhaps a bit thinner on the PTO side but thats just a theory until I actually get to tear into it,Whats the deal with the high and low altitude CDI?Never heard of that before,could that be an issue?

kalebtimberlake I will try to get one those plates with the Zerk,sounds like a very reliable option

Thanks for the replies guys
 

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yes that high altitude cdi advances the timming more
real problem for cruising at sea level
at idle or full throttle no problem
i just got my cdi reflashed by artic cat $89
have to go pick it up at my dealer
 

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Sea level jetting will be in the 430 area staggered larger to MAG side!
The CDI box has more advance in the upper RPM,s
The only 2 screws on the carb affect the idle circuit, set both to 1.5 turns for base line setting.
You can get the CDI box flashed for FREE from cat, I had 5 done last season, I have run a high ele. box and had trouble with it over the 5K rpm area
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sea level jetting will be in the 430 area staggered larger to MAG side!
The CDI box has more advance in the upper RPM,s
The only 2 screws on the carb affect the idle circuit, set both to 1.5 turns for base line setting.
You can get the CDI box flashed for FREE from cat, I had 5 done last season, I have run a high ele. box and had trouble with it over the 5K rpm area
Thanks for the info,very useful,when I do get a chance to turn some wrenches on this thing I'll post up what I find,Thanks

Warren
 

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wow
i just had my dealer send my high altitude cdi to arctic cat for the reflash to low altitude.
quoted $89
dealer called and said cat will not flash it any more
i have to buy low altitude cdi
shi**ty
thinking i will just run it rich
4th clip 500 jets have speedwerx head and slp pipe and can
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well,a cylinder,top end kit,eBay carbs & new power valve cables & she is purring like a cat.ran it long enough to burp the coolant system and move it to its resting place and all sounded and looked good,wanted to float it to the ice and take a good rip but the mbrp can on it is obnoxiously loud and I got it finished up at about 2 am,hopefully I'll get it out tomorrow for a good runClap
 
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