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Discussion Starter #1
So I pulled the skid to have the shocks rebuilt. Figured while it's out spend the coin and rebuild it. Currently planning to replace most of the bearings, one bogey, limiter straps, wear bars/slides, the rail nose pieces, 1604-066/067 springs, adjustment blocks and retainers.

My only question is about adjusting the settings. Obviously I don't know how the new setup will feel, but the way it was I could pretty much bottom it out by pressing the seat with my arm. I'm a pretty big guy and need a stiff suspension.

I read through the manual, and short of adjusting the blocks it doesn't really tell you how to firm up the suspension, just adjust the angles for handling.

So here's my skid... excuse the dirty floor, brother had most of the garage space taken up putting the tracks on his SxS. I haven't cleaned it up yet but plan to before rebuilding.
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One thing I noticed with your skid and another members 2001 ZR600 skid he was working on is the rear lower arm and cross brace is mounted in the 3rd hole from front. He was indicating his sled sat way too low in the back end. Looking at the service manual for 2001 models that rear arm and crossbrace should be bolted in the 2nd hole. However it looks like yours has been there a while as I don't see wear marks around 2nd hole. Everything else looks correct.
 

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That will actually make it stiffer and (could) sit higher up in the rear were it is currently at because of no spring sag. It should be in the second hole though as 660catman has stated.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
From what I'm reading, they are both moved back 1 already, which should make it stiffer. Manual says they should be forward 1 (A) from what Im seeing. So if I need it stiffer, should I move them back one more? Leave it as is?
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That would be up to you after you have it all together with new springs. I would test it in current position first.
 

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The hole highlighted in red is just starting to get egged out, common issue with these skids. While the skid is out, I would get that fixed. Either have someone weld it and drill the hole out again, or make a plate, like the one in the picture, or both (what I did).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The hole highlighted in red is just starting to get egged out, common issue with these skids. While the skid is out, I would get that fixed. Either have someone weld it and drill the hole out again, or make a plate, like the one in the picture, or both (what I did).
I didn't notice that, thanks. I'll make a couple brackets, that's easy enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That would be up to you after you have it all together with new springs. I would test it in current position first.
I guess never having done this before just trying to do it right. I'm assuming I'd have to pull the whole skid again to re-set them, correct?
 

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I guess never having done this before just trying to do it right. I'm assuming I'd have to pull the whole skid again to re-set them, correct?
That I don’t know as I’ve never changed my settings on any sled.
 

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Unbolt the plastic spring retain blocks behind the outer idler wheel and while sled is suspended in the air release the springs and pull the bolt out of rear sissor and slide to new location and put bolt back in. At this time move the other bolt location (The stop) too.
 

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So I pulled the skid to have the shocks rebuilt. Figured while it's out spend the coin and rebuild it. Currently planning to replace most of the bearings, one bogey, limiter straps, wear bars/slides, the rail nose pieces, 1604-066/067 springs, adjustment blocks and retainers.

My only question is about adjusting the settings. Obviously I don't know how the new setup will feel, but the way it was I could pretty much bottom it out by pressing the seat with my arm. I'm a pretty big guy and need a stiff suspension.

I read through the manual, and short of adjusting the blocks it doesn't really tell you how to firm up the suspension, just adjust the angles for handling.

So here's my skid... excuse the dirty floor, brother had most of the garage space taken up putting the tracks on his SxS. I haven't cleaned it up yet but plan to before rebuilding. View attachment 362173 View attachment 362174 View attachment 362175 View attachment 362176 View attachment 362177

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do you have the remote skid mounts on the bottom of the tunnel? look like little L brackets? my zr600 had the exact same problem. got brand new springs, rebuilt shocks, bushings greased it ect ect. played with the rear arm and It changes the rebound speed from my experience and helps with weight transfer. Really unforgiving if you change it, mine was in the furthest hole. Keep it in the 2nd hole from front as 660catman indicated for my sled. But for that skid mount, the rear of the skid will be angled more aggressively and all the weight will be on the rear torsion springs and not the front-rear shock. If thats not the case and you don't have that mount or it wasn't mounted in those holes, it could be the front-rear shock being too loose. Again, all the weight on the rear torsion springs. You could tighten that up. the limiter straps could be too tight as well. ive attached a picture of how my sled sat with those remote skid mounts. notice the back of the skid is only touching the ground. the 2nd photo is the skid attatched to the higher tunnel holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not sure what part you're referring to, front of the skid mounts directly to the tunnel, the rear has these offset arms, but it's supposed to according to the microfiche. (#12 in this pic) That what you're talking about?
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Not sure what part you're referring to, front of the skid mounts directly to the tunnel, the rear has these offset arms, but it's supposed to according to the microfiche. (#12 in this pic) That what you're talking about? View attachment 362200

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look at the 2 pictures I posted. the first one has the rear of the skid mounted under the tunnel, and the first in the holes more upward.
I marked what I'm referring to. first ones the top mount 2nd is the bottom mount.
 

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Matt, I replied in your post about what your asking here.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think I'm picking up what you're putting down now. I don't remember any other parts under the tunnel for mounting mine but I'll check.

Did moving the mount down actually stiffen the suspension tho? I'd think it only would change the angle of the skid. My angle is (was) fine, it was just super-soft (10-ply bud) and I could pretty much bottom it out by pressing down with my hand.

I will say the regular shock that was on the skid was dead, no pressure whatsoever. The shock with the coil was in surprisingly good condition however.

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I think I'm picking up what you're putting down now. I don't remember any other parts under the tunnel for mounting mine but I'll check.

Did moving the mount down actually stiffen the suspension tho? I'd think it only would change the angle of the skid. My angle is (was) fine, it was just super-soft (10-ply bud) and I could pretty much bottom it out by pressing down with my hand.

I will say the regular shock that was on the skid was dead, no pressure whatsoever. The shock with the coil was in surprisingly good condition however.

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[/QUOTE
i had no suspension using that mount. I could bottom it out as you're describing. those mounts fixed my issue 100%. I now sit lower than normal but thats caused by many other little things I have going on. But I now have suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Mine does also have that bracket under the mounting hole, there isn't one in the front tho, just the factory one.

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