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2002 Honda Rancher-2006 AC 650 H1-2014 wildcat trail 700
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new project is a 2001 AC 500 4x4 automatic. It was in rough shape when I got it for $600. Famous last words " it ran when I parked it". The fuel gauge was gone and the hole covered by tape. Carb choke mechanism was missing. Throttle cover was gone on carb. 3 different size wheels and tires all around. speedo not working. Among other little things. So I took it home and removed the plastics and cleaned it up. ( I like to work on a clean slate.) I took the tank off and cleaned it out. New pepcock,new gas gauge/cover. The carb looked like it had been on fire. I took it off, took it apart, soaked it and ordered a rebuild kit. IN the meantime I also had a chinese carb new out of the box and put it on. Changed all the fuel lines. Changed the oil and filter along with air filter. The boot from the carb to the airbox was dry rotted and torn, I found a new/used one from EBAY. I also had to replace the master cylinder and all brake pads. Yes I bled the lines. I got this all together and even put correct rims and tires on it. It started and idled. I took it for a spin and it moved well. 4x4 and all gears are working. I rode around for about 10-15 minutes nothing aggressive. It started to loose power and idle down until it would not idle anymore and would not pull its own weight. So to the forums and google I went. I replaced the coil as it was intermittent. I tested the voltage regulator and it is doing well but ordered an new one anyway. I had to replace the choke housing lever? not sure it is called that. As it was "wallered out" and it would not hold the cable in place. Now as all this is going on I am taking careful time to get the OEM carb out of rehab and back to work. I also since I had it all apart set the valves.

For the life of me I could not get this bike to start again. I replaced the carb-coil-choke thingy-spark plug- valves set- wheels and tires (used) but appropriate for this bike, brakes, I do mind you have the repair manual and I am following it as I should. I put the OEM carb on back to factory settings and she starts. I check all the electrical fuses and all the essential electrical parts with the multimeter and everything is working as it should. Now for some reason the thing will not run past idle. As soon as I give it gas it stalls. I fiddle and check things and noticed one of my vent hoses was pinched and not letting the carb do its thing. I fixed that and now she idles and will rev up. YES!

So today as it is idling in the driveway I get on and go for a scoot. Same as before it is running well but not strong. I did a few open throttle runs- It just will not get up to a full speed without a stutter. I was going to turn around and go home and we went back to square one. Lost power like it was being starved and stopped. It will turn back on and idle but will not pull its own self. Then we went back to where it would not start anymore.

what am I missing? I am not ready to douse it with diesel and dance around the flames just yet.

Any and all advise would be great. Thank you.
 

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I'm going to suggest getting a Dynojet kit for the carburetor, clean and blow out all jets, put an inline fuel filter in. They are very sensitive to any dirt, crud in the fuel system. Also try switching to "reserve"to see if there is any difference. The old 500 Cat is a great motor, btw. Here are some tuning notes for the Keihn CV carburetors.
 

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2002 Honda Rancher-2006 AC 650 H1-2014 wildcat trail 700
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I ordered the dynojet kit- thanks for the input. Any suggestions on a fuel filter? I did put one inline but I will say before the filter the line is full. After the filter there is always air in the line or it seems it does not flow well? I did follow the arrows.
 

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I ordered the dynojet kit- thanks for the input. Any suggestions on a fuel filter? I did put one inline but I will say before the filter the line is full. After the filter there is always air in the line or it seems it does not flow well? I did follow the arrows.
Not sure what filter that I used when I had a 2001 AC 500, but it has to have low restriction. If you remove the line from the carburetor, do you have a good flow? I forget how that tank vents, but if you are getting a poor flow, then remove fill cap and it flows good, could be a plugged vent. Mud Dauber wasps like to plug fuel vent hoses with mud, btw and spiders have been known to plug them too. Here is a set up that I had on my old 500, the wide band O2 air fuel ratio gauge was invaluable tuning the carburetor. Found a picture of her, was a real workhorse!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
vent line is good but I will check the inlet.outlet on the tank. I am rebuilding the oem carb now with the new kit and dyno jet system. Any idea how you are supposed to measure the float? Manual states a 17mm gap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I did a compression test. I am getting 160. According to the manual I should have 63-77. What am I missing? I also will say I got that reading with the throttle wide open and closed I got 100psi
 
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