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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks

New to the ZRT 600 motor. I have an 02 550 motor in a pantera and it does not seem to smoke as much as this ZRT 600 (1800 miles on the ZRT Motor).

The colour of the smoke is a bit dark when you first start off (it has a brownish ting to it). I can see in my mirrors quite a bit of blue smoke as I travel down the trail.

I bought the sled used so I dont know what brand of oil the other fella was using. I topped up the oil tank with Shell Advance Ultra which I use in the Pantera.

Do triples create more smoke than a twin? I noticed last year that my buddies Mach 1 700 also smoked alot.

Does the ZRT 600 motor's oil pump frequently need adjustment?

And finally how do you adjust the mixture at idle? Is this where the air\idle screw comes in. Im familiar with needle and main jet adjustments but no so familiar with the idle mixture adjustment.

I am assuming that the brown smoke I am seeing at idle and take off is a rich condition.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Ben
 

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i got a 99 zrt600 which is almost the same thing as your's, just 1 year older, and my sled doesnt smoke like how u say, my guess would be like u say running to rich... which unfortunatly i dont know how to adjust that kind of stuff, or maybe (i highly doubt it but maybe) you could have 2 different type of oil mixtures when you topped it off with shell so that might be the problem. like i said i highly doubt that one... but if the mixture thing did happen to be the problem then you could do 1 of 2 things, call the person you bought the sled from and find out what they used, or just keep running the shell oil you put it and maybe it will stop smokeing after a while... the only smoke that my zrt puts out is just the regular light blue smoke that you get from just about every 2 stroke motor
 

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I've never seen or used the "SHELL" brand oil so I can't give any advice on that. How many miles have you put on the sled since you bought it? The prior owner's oil should be ran out by now? I've heard alot of stories of things that can happen when dino. oil is mixed with a full syn. oil, most usually it causes major motor damage. Dino. oil (natural oil) and a full syn. oil will not mix, it acts like oil and water. My step-son accidently mixed the 2 oils on his cr250 approx. 3 years ago, it basically wiped his motor out including crank bearings.
Are you fouling plugs?
 

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I run the shell ultra in my 01 600TT and it smokes pretty good when warming up but once on the trail she is fine. Never heard of the issues with mixing the oils and I ran the bottom of my tank with cat oil mixed with the shell. Try to figure out what your oil ratio is by comparing oil to gas usage, you want to be around 50:1. I run 310's on mag and PTO and 320 in the center. I use 35 pilots and I think I am in the middle clip on the needle jet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
UPDATE:

Stink O Saurus - smokes out MacDonalds Resturaunt!

Holy smokes (no punn intended). Took the family out for a trail ride. Started the machine just outside the garage and funmigated the entire neighbourhood.

Ran it 16 miles to the MacDonalds. I did see quite a bit of blue smoke as a I rode, especially when I stopped and started again.

Got to MacDonalds. Got the kids a happy meal and let them play at the play land for a while.

Where we park the sleds at MacDonalds you can clearly see them from inside the restaurant (the sleds are parked about 6 feet from the glass), so all the snowmobilers take these window seats so they can keep an eye on their machines and look at the others.

Fired up my sled and Im sure that the people inside the restaurant could smell the fumes. It was completely embarrasing!

If I was to retire this machine Im sure I would be able to reverse global warming LOL.

Got some good tips from Cattman and we are going to work on shutting the oil delivery down and changing some of the jetting.

Clutching is very strange and unpredictable. Bring it up to 6 grand it will start to accelerate really quickly and the the clutch will open up and the rpm will drop off and the machine will slow down?

I dont think anyone had done any clutch maintenance and it sounds like the secondary is sticking to me.

Machine has 1800 miles so I put a fresh belt on and that did help tremendously (original belt still on it).

If anyone else has main jet and pilot jet settings for this machine that would be great. Im just above sea level and Im sure I have the factory jetting in the machine.

Either this machine changes its stinky ways or its gonna be made extinct.

My wifes 02 550 Pantera has a nice steady stream of whitish exhaust comming from it. It has always ran great (especially after I raised the e clips).

Nothing like the three headed stink monster!

Just to answer some of the questions posed, no I have not fouled the brand new plugs the guy put in it before he sold it but, i do have the originals that look like they came with the sled.

No I have not burnt out all of the old oil out yet (which may be part of the cause)

Other than the smoke and "crazy hang cause here we go clutching" it is an awesome machine and it sounds way better than my buddies Mach 1.

Thanks again for everyones help. Hopefully I can get this thing dialed in this weekend.

Ben
 

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Ummm..Couple of things I want to address to ya here. First- Have you had the airbox apart or off? It seems to me that your sled might have a intake or exhaust blockage and is more noticeable at idle with the "Global Warming" concerns. I had a smiliar situation with a past sled, it was boggy of idle to mid-range then ran like a bat out of heck. It smoked alot at idle as well. I never really understand the brown smoke from the orginal post but this might explain it. I'd suggest taking the exhuast can off and inspecting it, who knows maybe a mouse eat the screen and made a home in there. Also, I'd take the airbox off and apart for inspect and maybe clean the inside of it. When you go to put it back on, have it gutted so you can guide the boots onto the carbs easily and then finish putting it back together.

My secondary was a pain in the butt and it only had like 1300 miles on it. It was froze onto the shaft. If you take the secondary off yourself, I'd have a new subshaft in hand before doing so. I believe it's a $6 part from your local dealer so no biggie. It's just a good example of a alum. alloy and steel froze'n together. That might keep your sled's down time to a min.
 

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Excessive smoke is typically from too rich jetting for the conditons. Fully synthetic oil will mix perfectly fine with dino oil. If this sled does not have power valves then you can run the regular Shell Advance and not need to use the Ultra. There is no real advantge to the synthetic over regular if you don't have APV's, or are not racing. I like the Shell product because it is a low smoke oil, so there must be some set up issues with this sled. It sounds like both clutches need servicing and if oyu want to keep the carbs well tuned without having to change jets every day, then I'd suggest installing a Tempa-Flow to provide automatic fuel compensation for changes in temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have not had either the air box off or the can off. But I am going to do some major maintenance on this machine this Friday.

I have the whole day booked off to make the changes that have been suggested on these pages. I would like to take the primary off, just wonder if you use the string in the cyclinder technique?

I did do some maintenace already. Found that one of the coolant hoses was rubbing agaist the negative terminal that comes from the battery and attaches to the motor.

I was told about this in one of the other fourms. Good call. A hole in the coolant hose would have left me trail side for sure.

I also found a broken exhaust spring at the can so I have to replace a couple of them because they look suspect.

Im am going to change out the stock mains and drop them down 10 points and raise the eclips on the needles.

I do most of my riding in the midrange so dropping the needles should help me significantly.

Also had a look at the piston wash and the centre piston dome is completely clean and shiny (well not shiny but at least very clean). I believe this is because it is getting too much fuel.

The crown of the other pistons where brown.

I have never had an airbox apart so this should be interesting.

The secondary slides nicely back and forth on the shaft. I am going to remove it, disisemble, clean and put it back together.

If I have a chance I may stop at Royal Distributing and pick up a clutch rebuild kit for the primary. I have heard these clutches need to rebuilt every 1200 miles or so.

In any event I will be using the information I have gathered in these pages to help me along.

So the advice I have already used.

Thanks guys.

I will keep you posted.

Thanks
Ben
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (94ZR580 @ Jan 30 2007, 12:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Excessive smoke is typically from too rich jetting for the conditons. Fully synthetic oil will mix perfectly fine with dino oil. If this sled does not have power valves then you can run the regular Shell Advance and not need to use the Ultra. There is no real advantge to the synthetic over regular if you don't have APV's, or are not racing. I like the Shell product because it is a low smoke oil, so there must be some set up issues with this sled. It sounds like both clutches need servicing and if oyu want to keep the carbs well tuned without having to change jets every day, then I'd suggest installing a Tempa-Flow to provide automatic fuel compensation for changes in temperature.[/b]

You can mix dino oil with full syn. oil in your sled anyday you wish but, this is one wive's tale that I fully believe as I have seen the result in a 2 stroke motor and had to help pay for the rebuild of such motor!
I've never seen BROWN exhaust smoke from a 2-stroke motor or any motor for that matter.
 

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I would be concerned about one piston being clean when the others are showing good carbon. Only make one jetting change at a time and make it based on plug colour and piston wash. You want to start by setting the main jets and only adjust the needles after the mains are properly set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks

I will start with smaller mains after I have removed the air box, pipe and can to see if possibly I have a mouse nest or some other obstruction.

I checked the compression (stone cold motor) and the gauge read approx 100 psi in every cyclinder so I know my compression is good.

Not sure why the centre piston is clean and the rest are showing carbon. I found this strange too.

Ben
 

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I would warm up motor and feel the pipes to see if they are all warm. If a cylinder is not firing it causes a lot of smoke. I would pay special attention to the one with the clean piston. If there was a cold one I would think the choke on that cylinders carb is not seated and needs cleaning or adjustment. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cleaned the secondary clutch. Cleaned and inspected the carbs. Dropped the needles. The engine runs much much better in the mid range now.

Still smokes excessively at start up but this maybe a triple only syndrome. It may be that feeding 3 cyclinders with injection oil instead of just two is going to make the differance.

During my trail ride today I noticed less smoke however the people in my group said it was still smoking a bit much and it was hard to ride behind.

On the way home I rode at the back of the pack. My next step is to do an oil consumption study and see what the factory has this machine set up for.

I thought I read in one of the other threads that the oil pump on this machine only has two settings, a low and a high and that adjusting the cable only determines when the high volume setting kicks in.

Can anyone veryify that this is correct (only low and high) or is the pump a variable output type?

Thanks
Ben
 

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It is variable. The 'low' and 'high' are setup marks for the pump. There is a mark on the lever and two marks on the pump boss. When at idle the mark on the arm lines up with the lower mark on the boss and when at WOT the line on the arm lines up with the upper mark on the boss. To decrease the amount of oil at idle is not possible (as far as I know), to decrease at all points off idle you just add some slack to the cable. What you are doing is requiring more throttle before the pump lever moves off the idle flow rate. I would not do much more than one revolution on the adjuster nut on the cable at a time.
 

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One other thing to check, the 1st few times I started my ZR this year it was smoking terrible..I started looking at things and discovered that the oil pump was not returning all the way back to the idle position when the throttle was released, so while the sled was sitting there, the oil was actually gravity feeding into the cylinders..!!! Oiled up the pump worked it back and forth a few times and its fine now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Guys

That is awsome information. Before I adjust anything I will check to make sure the pump is returning back to idle. It does smoke alot at idle for sure!

So I want to check that first.

After that I will do an oil consumption study and then see what adjustments need to be made. I may also have to switch to a different oil. My wifes pantera runs great on Shell Advance but maybe I have to change oils for the triple.

Any suggestions in oil brand for lower smoke on this triple would be appreciated.

Thanks
Ben
 

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HEY! PURPLE POWER LUBE,I RIDE A TRIPLE TOURING 600 WITH THE SAME TRIPLE 600 AS YOU AND I'M RUNNING AMSOIL INTERCEPTOR SYNTHETIC OIL,AND IN MY OPINION AND FROM MY DEALER'S ALSO ,THIS IS THE BEST OIL FOR YOUR MONEY.
NOW,WHEN YOU FIRST START UP ,IT IS NORMAL FOR IT TO SMOKE,EVEN HEAVILY,BUT WHEN IT'S WARMED UP,IT SHOULD BE SMOKELESS AND ODORLESS AS MINE IS.I'VE FOLLOWED SKI-DOO'S,THEY REALLY STINK OIL,I'VE FOLLOWED A ZL600 EFI,AND EVEN IT SMOKES MORE THAN MY TRIPLE.

HOPE THIS HELPS

CAT'S IN MY BLOOD
 

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On your cyl that has the top of the piston so clean you may want to check your reed valves. some aftermarket reeds arent as durable as the stockers. Broken or cracked reed petals will give a rich mixture as the air gets pumped back thru the carb it picks up more fuel then as it gets sucked thru the carb it will again pick up fuel. Just a possiblity but if its as clean of wash as you say I'd say there is a problem somewhere.
 
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