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Discussion Starter #42
So, I was back at it tonight after a great email from support at Country Cat today. They sent me a service manual and I found the actual setting for the float level to be 13mm with a photo. I saw an improvement but the engine still backfires through the carb as you give it more and more throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Update: I received the new cdi ($21.00) and the new coil ($8.00) today and put them on. No improvement or degradation of performance, so I have at least eliminated ignition from the equation. My new intake boot (carb to head) should arrive tomorrow and I know it needs to be replaced because it’s cracked but temporarily sealed. So if that doesn’t make a change I’m going to start looking at the valves to see if something is damaged or burned.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Ok, new update: Received my new intake boot and installed it today so I have now eliminated that as an issue. My original one was dry rotted and cracked, but I felt pretty sure my temporary electrical tape fix was suitable for testing and I guess I was right because the new boot did not solve the problem. Sooo.... now I have cleaned and tested the old carb, bought a chinese carb on ebay, replaced the spark plug, replaced the intake boot, adjusted the valves, cleaned the tank and petcock, replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the CDI and coil. Still won't take fuel above half throttle.
Now that I have the actual service manual from Country Cat (thanks Kevin), I am going to revisit all settings and adjustments in the carb per the exact manual information rather than internet research info, and readjust the valves. If I'm not able to get it to take fuel at that point, I have to assume I have a valve problem. I'll take any advice at this point. Heck, I'll stand on my head and try to crank if someone says that will make it work.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
FINAL UPDATE!!!!!
I finally beat my problem today!
I’m not really sure how this happened, but I will describe my discovery in hopes it will help someone down the road.
The bike would crank right up and idle fine, but would not take fuel. I had done MANY things as you can read (have read) previously on this post. Before Christmas I adjusted the valves. After all my troubleshooting I determined I HAD to have a valve train issue so today I began removing the valve cover to explore thinking I would find a burned valve or something.
As I began removing it, I found that the exhaust valve adjusting screw and lock but WERE MISSING. They were there when I adjusted them in December obviously. I have no explanation other than I must’ve not gotten them tight, and at that time a medley of other issues were working against me. I found both the adjusting screw and the locknut SEPARATE in the head. This means the locknut unscrewed and fell off and then the adjuster backed out. Fortunately there was no damage and I reassembled and adjusted everything and IT WORKS AND RUNS WELL!!!!
I’m very appreciative of the support provided here in the forum.
 

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Wow that’s a first. Good catch.
 

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Catty, I got a 2000 300 2x4 Green. I had similar issue, but it was very hard to start. Once started runs like a clock. But after it cools, you will kill a battery. Will not start. Bought a new carb as well, same issue. Come to find out. Did compression test. First it was 90psi. Suppose to be 150+ to 190. So I'm looking at top end job. I'm do myself. Been mechanic my whole life. We'll see after the top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Catty, I got a 2000 300 2x4 Green. I had similar issue, but it was very hard to start. Once started runs like a clock. But after it cools, you will kill a battery. Will not start. Bought a new carb as well, same issue. Come to find out. Did compression test. First it was 90psi. Suppose to be 150+ to 190. So I'm looking at top end job. I'm do myself. Been mechanic my whole life. We'll see after the top end.
I hope you will share some about your progress! I’d enjoy following the repair!
 
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