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Discussion Starter #81
That and the stock parts were thrown into the trash 5+ years ago because of all the hairline fractures.

Here's another video about these clutches:


Supposedly they handle 200hp just fine.
 

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Give cvtech a call, you might just need to mess with the weights. Or at least they could confirm if its calibrated for your sled.

seem like solid clutches馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Updates:

1. Engine movement. I have no snubber at all, which is why my engine is moving so much. I ordered one and that should probably help a lot; you can see in my vids when I try to launch the whole engine moves which INCREASES belt deflection a huge amount.

2. Belt deflection. I noticed I have almost 1.75" of belt deflection. From what I gather, I need to 'tighten' the secondary by bringing the sheaves together. This involves removing the secondary, disassembly, and removal of some shims. I pulled the bolt out, and I swear I got it to move 1/4" by hand outwards, but then it stopped. I've tried:

  • Hammers
  • Picklefork/Prying
  • Soaking in Kroil (both sides)
  • Torch
  • Air hammers
  • I put the belt back on, suspended the sled, revved up the track and hit the brakes a few times
  • Now I have the sled jacked up under 1 a-arm and I'm spraying kroil in the end of the secondary every few hours in hopes of soaking it off.

I might give up on the secondary, but I don't get why my belt is riding so low in it. I am using a brand new belt, factory correct for this sled. Maybe the installation fo the engine snubber will make a huge difference?

3. Stator: I checked the high speed, low speed, and 12v circuits. The high and low speed seem fine, but I am getting 45 ohms on the 12v circuit, instead of the 25 spec'd. Odd.

4. When I had the sled raised up, I can move the track by hand pretty easily, so I don't think the brake is dragging.

5. Haven't reached out to CV tech yet, want to see how it acts with an engine snubber installed.
 

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Thanks! I was digging around with parts diagrams on country cat and couldn't find them anywhere, so yeah, I feel like a dumbass.

Plan of attack is to prop up the back end and see what happens when I rev it, and after that, I'll pull the carbs again and double check everything including those reeds. The carbs have a bracket that makes them synced, and there is only one throttle cable, so I am pretty sure they have to be synced?


Reed Valve assembly. Is this your engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Yup! I just didn't click 'more' to load the rest of the components. Reeds are good.
 

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I had to destroy my jackshaft to get my secondary off on my 1998 zr 500 (this was back in 2009).

I think I cut the jackshaft in half, then beat the shaft out of the clutch. I may have used heat, I can't remember. Replacing the jack shaft was cheap.
 
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