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Discussion Starter #41
So I've decided to leave the arms in, but now I'm stuck on getting the bolt out of one of the spindles. I've heated it up with a torch, I've smashed the hell out of it with a big sledge, I've used an impact, nothing is working. I can get the nut off, and the bolt spins, but it refuses to come out. ARGH!

Also, I have a choke cable, but I do not have the brass adaptors that thread into my carbs. Does anybody know where I could get a couple? I'm not sure what I'm looking for, perhaps part # 6506-137? $20 each seems like a complete ripoff.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Long time no update.

Regarding my last post, I wound up using a cutoff wheel to get the spindle off. Ordered new hardware from countrycat, also ordered the stupid brass choke adaptors that I needed. $20 each for a small brass threaded part is borderline criminal, but okay.

Seat took way more time then I thought. Used nylon webbing and pop rivets to make the front mount.



After a LOT of trimming, it was getting close. I decided to try to mimic some of the existing design language of the seat's aesthetics. The electric trimming knife worked awesome, and yeah, huge mess!



I'm trying to avoid spending money on actual upholstery work, so I cut the vinyl, rolled the edge, and glued with pliobond. No idea how it will hold up though. Here it is almost fully mounted:



It was a pain to get the belt off, there was barely any clearance between the clutch and the bodywork. I checked the motor mounts, and sure enough, one was toast. I took it out and realized it was a melted motor mount with stacked large washers on top of it, wrapped in electrical tape. Who does **** like this? LOL.



I reused the BMX grip flanges around the spark plugs. They're silicone so they shoudln't melt, and they look kind of cool. The studs on the exhaust manifolds were 3 different sizes, but all the studs were identical. Again, WTF. Threw all the hardware away and used some stainless washers and stainless freakin' ACORN NUTS for added bling.



Removed the belt cover, forgot to get a before big put it was pretty beat/rusty looking. Sanded, sprayed with the same charcoal metallic as the tunnel, then clearcoated:



After that, I tore into the front suspension. The front a-arms had a lot of rust, to the point where they wouldn't even flop downwards when disconnected from everything. Note the upper a-arm frozen upwards:



Spindles were scraped with a razorblade to remove the remnants of decals, then sanded, sprayed with charcoal metallic, then clearcoated:



The front shocks looked awful, but it rode okay. I figured they'd need rebuilding because they look absolutely awful:



However, after noticing no oil whatsoever, and very smooth/steady movement in both compression and rebound, I decided to just clean them up. The springs were sanded heavily to roughen the existing powdercoat and remove the rust. Sprayed with RustOLeum Lime Green Engine Enamel. I like their engine enamels a lot, they have great coverage and leave an extremely durable finish, with a lot of gloss. The shock bodies themselves were pretty awful, and a wire wheel didn't have enough bite to get through the zinc coating. What wound up working great was putting them to a metal finishing wheel. Followed that up with a few coats of clear (masking the shaft), sandblasting the hardware and clearing that, then reassembling. I did one at a time so you can really see the difference here:





I also POR15'd the top of the spindles and the ski mount area, and am currently throwing everything back together. I purchased all new hardware from CountryCat, I didn't want to put those nasty old bolts back in, so here's my most recent photo of where I am at:

 

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Build looks good, just realized we've bs'd on reddit a bit so figured I'd drop in a comment. I'm sure your hoping for snow soon, i know we don't got much up here after the recent heat wave. Hoping for some over the next week, wrapping up my ZRT8 and praying for snow.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Seat Mount:


$7 taillight:



New hyfax time, never done this before. The screws holding the hyfax in were ground down from the track, and really ahrd to get out. I replaced them with new stainless screws/nuts.


Pounding new new hyfax, lubricated with some windex.


New hyfax installed, looks so much better than random red on a green and black sled. Adjusted track tension as well.
 

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hey man looking great! Just want to toss my 2 cents in here. I run the same tail light, your people behind you will NEVER see it at the angle it faces, your going to want to make a bracket so it is facing head on backwards. the amount of side and top lighting is minimal, they may see the light but they will have NO clue you are braking, exp after snow build up starts on it while on trail.

to fix this i did something really easy, just made a mount, here is the NO welding mount


once you get it cut out, bend the plate till you get the angle you want




drill a hole in the back for the wire harness to pass though, and some mount holes to rivet the lamp bracket to the tunnel






That will resolve your problem... if you can weld you can also change things up a bit more







both are good options and the people you ride with will thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Good call! I kind of want to order a 12" wide LED brake light, then just hog out the whole area of plastic so it sits flush, but I want to tackle everything else first. I'll make a spacer out of some scrap material to angle it downwards more.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
So I got her running, and took her to the ice drags at Christie's Landing on Lake Waubesa, near Madison. Started on first pull. Wouldn't move. She'd rev and rev, but no movement whatsoever. A few guys came over, told me my primary clutch was totally screwed up and I needed a new one. How disappointing. >sigh<
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Took it to Suter's speed shop in Madison. Going to have them bless the clutches or throw them in the trash and put on new ones. IDK yet. Annoyed.

Also, when I start it up it seems to idle at 3k rpms. When I put on the choke the idle settles down. Any idea what would cause this?
 

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Hang in there. We've all been there, but I think nothing beats running something you built vs. bought. If you put the choke on and the idle settles, I'd say that's pretty indicative of a lean condition. You probably need to jet up a size or two for those pipes. Check both of your carb boots thoroughly, sometimes it's hard to see the cracks and it's common for them to need replacing after 10+ years of service. I would strongly recommend a leak-down test on that motor if you do not find a ripped boot and continue to experience rising idle/high idle. You can build one with a trip to your local hardware store. Google the process. I did it, found a leak on what I thought was a great engine after taking out the stator, and found some outside bearings were going and the seals were leaking. Imperative you have an airtight engine. Had the same issue with a ZR600EFI with the rising idle as you described and yes I did melt down a piston. It was a bad crank seal, bad bearing, etc. Good luck with it. I've been all through these things and I have to say they can be reliable and a lot of fun if you know their weaknesses and address them.
 

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One other thing occurred to me, you mentioned the sled was premixed. Adding oil to your gas also leans the mixture. I assume that premixed fuel is gone and you've replaced with good stuff now that you have the oil pump working?
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
jlgace: I am running the stock pipe, and it WAS premixed but the oil pump seems to be working so I am just using the stock oiling system.

Actually, I have one other question. I filled up my sled for the first time Sat morning, and once I got to the lake, there was gas all down the front/left side of the tank. I tried screwing the console (part with the choke/key on it) into the tank, but the holes in the tank appear to be large holes, whereas the holes in the console are small. Is it possible some idiot used a huge screw and drilled into the tank at this location?
 

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Anything's possible, but likely it's just that you're missing the threaded insert that goes in the hole of the tank. Note: the hole should not go all the way through. If it does, get some epoxy or other goop tolerant of petroleum products and seal it up. Might as well throw a nut in there while you're at it and you'll have something to put your bolt into.
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
So I just talked to the guys at Suters. Rebuilding my clutch will be about $300. They are telling my cat clutches are crap, and pointed me to their wall of clutches, most of which are cat, none of which are usable. I was told to consider upgrading to a CV Tech clutch, supposedly a lot more robust.... $500ish.

Thoughts?

Update: My clutch is cracked. Rebuilding it not possible. ****.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
:\

Also, the jack shaft support is loose on the frame/tunnel itself. The bolts are tightened all the way. Ideas to fix this?
 
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