First off it runs now, i have included my steps for anyone that comes across this problem looking for a STEP-BY-STEP instructional of what i did
Secondly i now have a new issue, that i will list below that i didnt know i had before! FUN!
I replugged in everything, and then I disconnected the ECM, I found the 2 pins the control ground on the injectors, and with the Key in the on position I carefully ( and quickly) jumper-grounded the 2 pins in a tapping motion, I confirmed that the entire injector system after the ECM was working properly on both injectors.
I then attacked the injector sensor on the crank like you spoke of. With the ECM disconnected, i disconnected the plug going to the injector sensor and I confirmed continuity on both wires to the ecm plug itself, I then confirmed that the sensor ohm'd out at 190ish. everything was perfect.
I reinstalled the battery, and at the same time i sanded off the grounding point for the lower bolt hole on the ECM bracketry that connects to the frame of the sled. I turned the key on to get the fuel pump to start up, then after it built up pressure I re-tapped the ground on the ecm plug that controls the injectors to fire to prime the motor a bit instead of using break cleaner. Key off, I plugged the ECM back in, and turned over the motor, it started right up (WTF), it ran like **** for about 30 seconds then leveled out.... i hit the throttle lever and i could tell it didnt like it too much and wasnt "smooth" but after hitting it a dozen or so times, it went back to idle considerably faster than when i first started it. Coolant, oil and fuel levels were all good so i let it sit there and run a little bit to just give it some time to break in/ reseal anything that is super old and hasnt had oil on it in 10 years...
after about 5 minutes I decided to see if my clutches would operate, i ran the RPMS up until the primary engaged, however it didnt even budge the secondary in the process it just bruned the belt... so i turned the motor off and i tried to manually turn the secondary... that bugger is froze solid! there is absolutely no movement on the secondary clutch.
SO my NEW question, is what are the components that would "freeze" a secondary clutch like this? Break caliper, drive selector ( which going from forward to reverse is already difficult) and then there is a chain drive box somewhere ( my experience with chain drive from motorcycles is that normally if they get lodged it will "rock" a little bit, but then rebind the opposite way, which mine is 100% locked/frozen, so i don't think that is the case)? Do you have any pointers on what to look at first? i sprayed as much as i could find with WD-40 before leaving it sit last night, but my plan was to try and mess with it more this weekend. just looking for some direction if anyone has some?
Secondly i now have a new issue, that i will list below that i didnt know i had before! FUN!
I replugged in everything, and then I disconnected the ECM, I found the 2 pins the control ground on the injectors, and with the Key in the on position I carefully ( and quickly) jumper-grounded the 2 pins in a tapping motion, I confirmed that the entire injector system after the ECM was working properly on both injectors.
I then attacked the injector sensor on the crank like you spoke of. With the ECM disconnected, i disconnected the plug going to the injector sensor and I confirmed continuity on both wires to the ecm plug itself, I then confirmed that the sensor ohm'd out at 190ish. everything was perfect.
I reinstalled the battery, and at the same time i sanded off the grounding point for the lower bolt hole on the ECM bracketry that connects to the frame of the sled. I turned the key on to get the fuel pump to start up, then after it built up pressure I re-tapped the ground on the ecm plug that controls the injectors to fire to prime the motor a bit instead of using break cleaner. Key off, I plugged the ECM back in, and turned over the motor, it started right up (WTF), it ran like **** for about 30 seconds then leveled out.... i hit the throttle lever and i could tell it didnt like it too much and wasnt "smooth" but after hitting it a dozen or so times, it went back to idle considerably faster than when i first started it. Coolant, oil and fuel levels were all good so i let it sit there and run a little bit to just give it some time to break in/ reseal anything that is super old and hasnt had oil on it in 10 years...
after about 5 minutes I decided to see if my clutches would operate, i ran the RPMS up until the primary engaged, however it didnt even budge the secondary in the process it just bruned the belt... so i turned the motor off and i tried to manually turn the secondary... that bugger is froze solid! there is absolutely no movement on the secondary clutch.
SO my NEW question, is what are the components that would "freeze" a secondary clutch like this? Break caliper, drive selector ( which going from forward to reverse is already difficult) and then there is a chain drive box somewhere ( my experience with chain drive from motorcycles is that normally if they get lodged it will "rock" a little bit, but then rebind the opposite way, which mine is 100% locked/frozen, so i don't think that is the case)? Do you have any pointers on what to look at first? i sprayed as much as i could find with WD-40 before leaving it sit last night, but my plan was to try and mess with it more this weekend. just looking for some direction if anyone has some?
