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Discussion Starter #1
Quick question:
Nearly finished with my zr600 swap. Out went the blown (broke crank) 1998 efi, and in went a 2001 efi bottom end with non-powervalve jugs that were still in great shape from my 98.
I am using the 2001 stator and flywheel and the stator checks out perfect.
Will the 2001 stator play nice with the 1998 ECM?
 

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Quick question:
Nearly finished with my zr600 swap. Out went the blown (broke crank) 1998 efi, and in went a 2001 efi bottom end with non-powervalve jugs that were still in great shape from my 98.
I am using the 2001 stator and flywheel and the stator checks out perfect.
Will the 2001 stator play nice with the 1998 ECM?
Been there, done that. It pops a capacitor in the ECM, enough where it will rip a chunk of silicon out of the back of the ECM. Find yourself a 2001 ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Does the capacitor blow the moment you try to pull it over? I’ve been trying to start it, and have only had a few seconds where it fired but wouldn’t keep idling.
 

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No it doesn't blow immediatly, it will take a few moments in my experience of two ecm's.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks so much for the help! I have a Ricks Stator on the way, wound to 98 specs so I’ll install that so I don’t blow my ecm.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
New stator is in, started up second pull!
I now have a 1998 upgraded to a 2000 bottom end.
I’ve heard mixed reviews on the Rick’s Motorsports stators. I have my original, and will get it rewound and will put on the shelf for a spare. Does Blaine in Michigan still do the rewinds if you send him a core?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Remember a couple posts earlier when I said it started second pull?
Well, it did, but ran pretty rough. I chalked that up to the excess oil in the case from being rebuilt. But, it turns out, my TPS plug was wearing against the steering shaft, and the red wire was worn through to the copper, shorting it to the steering shaft.
I figured this out because once the sled started to idle somewhat normal, it just wouldn’t rev above 2,000 rpm. Acted like a car, when the rev limiter is reached... Sled wouldn’t even rev high enough to engage the clutch. Ruled out the TSS, by unplugging it. No change. Did more homework, and heard of guys finding their TPS was worn against the steering, and sure enough, that’s what I got going on.

It sounds like the fix is to repair the worn wire, and then shim the entire engine up using new rubber mounts, or washers. To me, my mounts seemed ok when I had the motor out. I’m going to try a combination of both. I want there to be at least 1/4” of clearance so I never have to worry about this failing again (as long as I have the machine at least)

Anyone do new mounts to clear the TPS plug from the steering shaft? I’m just venting/making sure I’m doing this right.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Been about a month since I updated this. Repaired the red wire on the TPS, replaced motor mounts, and the TPS STILL rubbed on the steering shaft!
I shimmed the whole motor up and forward about 1/4” and gained about 1/8” of clearance between the steering shaft and TPS plug.
Reassembled, and it started on third pull. Idles and runs perfect now!
 
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