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I personally don't think you'd need new ones. If you have a decent weld/machine shop near you, a good welder paired with a decent machinist should be able to easily fill those holes and go in and clean the bore back up on the inside. Otherwise, I mean, I'm in MN, if you'd want to ship it, I'd be more than happy to fix it for you.

I second this approach. Easy fix, nothing to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I second this approach. Easy fix, nothing to it.
The more I look at it the more I agree. Need to practice my welding skills anyway. Think I will weld the hole closed. Press in a bushing centered in the bore and then ream it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Finally got fed up with the blasting, stripping,...etc. Here it is hanging in my Knuckledragger brand paint both. Using a epoxy primer and single stage gloss black. Regardless of how it turns out I am not going through that BS again. Here's hoping.
 

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Lookin' good! I don't know how much you are into painting, but it has been my experience that you are best off spraying the tough spots like under the foot wells and all tight spots first, then on the next coat paint the entire chassis. You will almost eliminate runs this way. Seen lots of people do it the opposite way and get lots and lots of runs trying to get coverage on the tight spots. Your call.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Lookin' good! I don't know how much you are into painting, but it has been my experience that you are best off spraying the tough spots like under the foot wells and all tight spots first, then on the next coat paint the entire chassis. You will almost eliminate runs this way. Seen lots of people do it the opposite way and get lots and lots of runs trying to get coverage on the tight spots. Your call.
Appreciate the tip. I can use all the good advice I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, here is the finished product. Painting inside the tunnel with a HVLP gravity fed gun is a pain. A shiphon gun might have been a better option. All in all I'm happy with how it turned out. The epoxy laid down nice and flashed very smooth so I shot the single stage urethane right over the top. The knuckledragger brand paint booth kept the trash to a minimum...but not zero. Looks to be good foundation to build the sled out on.

Thanks Tcat446 for the tip on shooting the footwells first, it worked out great. Cat happy
 

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Discussion Starter #29
It has been awhile but I finally finished the rear suspension. I'm using 2001 Mountain Cat rails and 1998 Thundercat front and rear arms and shocks.

I also included a photo of the front skis spring and shock. Going with a black over purple paint scheme.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I finally got a change to make some forward progress on the Restomod. I have the new suspension mocked up checking for fitment. I have a question for those of you who have done this mod before. Is it normal for the top of the front shock retainer to contract the upper A-Arm with the front suspension completely extended. I realize that the geometry will change and tend to flatten out as the shock is compressed draiwng the top away from the A-Arm but I would like to know if anyone else has experience this.

My parts list for this mod is a follows:



  • Kimpex 08-173 N7
    • 18” eye to eye extended
    • 11.5” eye to eye compressed
    • 2001 ZR500

  • Lower A-Arms
    • Left 0703-711
    • Right 0703-710
    • 2001 ZR500

  • Upper A-Arms
    • 0703-707
    • 2001 ZR500

  • Springs 1603-392
    • Free Length 14.125”
    • 2001 ZR500
Any help or suggestions you folks have would be appreciated.
 

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I would only have to assume that since you went the Kimpex route, that is your problem. This was intended for all Cat parts. If those are the correct parts then that likely is the reason. My list for front end AGLT parts show as follows:


97/98 zrt or 98 T-cat spindles.
01-06 upper and lower A arms and tie rods.
Ball joints from 2000 and newer. (Larger bend radius)
02 and newer front ski shocks 18" center to center.
Shock spacer and goes towards the front.


Personally, I have never had good luck with Kimpex shocks. Always went the Cat route and went with rebuildable shocks, but that's just me. It may be that the spring retainer is too big from the looks of it. Maybe a way to turn it down in a lathe or make another one?????
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks for the feedback. The interesting thing is the shock is fine, it is the spring retainer and spring itself that is interfering and both are factory cat parts. The shock body dimension are the same as the factory (the diameter of the kimpex is about a tenth smaller that the cat shock). The spring retainer is from the 98 Tcat.

I'll take tcats advice and grab a used one of ebay to check for fitment. Worth a shot.

I wonder if it is actually an issue tho since the suspension is completely extended and not connected to the sway bar or tie rods. It would seem that when the lower aarm and tie rods are connected it would not let the suspension extend that far under normal operation. I'll keep messing with it a little more before I start to freak.
 

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I would also say it sounds logical that the sway bar will hold it up too. Try it, nothing invested but some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
So here is something interesting, turns out the majority of the fitment problem with the front shocks was the spring retainer. I reused the 1998 Thundercat spring retainer with the Cat springs and Kimpex shocks. I took Tcat446 advice and bought a used shock from a 2000 ZRT 800. As you can see the spring retainer from the ZRT is smaller than the 1998 TCat (2.30" vs 2.40").



Now the rub, they both carry the same part number 1603-890. Seems that Arctic Cat engineers saw the same issue and shaved .10" of the diameter. The relationship from the shock to the A-Arm would be the same on all sleds regardless if they are AGLT Oh well, moving along.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well she's finally back on all fours. No I didn't convert it to electric drive just squishing the front suspension.

20190809_190424.jpg
 

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