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Discussion Starter #1
So I was trying to adjust my clutch and it says turn the screw all the way counter clockwise and back clockwise a 1/8 of a turn but when I try to turn it all the way counter clockwise it gets harder to turn and like its slipping gears or something it dont stop going counter clockwise. Any ideas?
 

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image1 (2).jpeg

Ok, so I compared out adjusters through parts lists and found they have the same part number. If you were wondering this is what the adjuster looks like, taken from my old cracked cover. The screw is supposed to stop spinning due to a bind and pressure to the clutch pack. I think when I adjusted mine it never quit spinning but became difficult to spin, and thats where I stopped. Did you loosen both jam nuts before trying to adjust? Just for reference here is the service manual for the 1998 454 which should have the same procedure. The procedure is found on 2-14
 

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Ok, so I compared out adjusters through parts lists and found they have the same part number. If you were wondering this is what the adjuster looks like, taken from my old cracked cover. The screw is supposed to stop spinning due to a bind and pressure to the clutch pack. I think when I adjusted mine it never quit spinning but became difficult to spin, and thats where I stopped. Did you loosen both jam nuts before trying to adjust? Just for reference here is the service manual for the 1998 454 which should have the same procedure. The procedure is found on 2-14
Yes I did loosen both its about the same as you were talking about. Once i got the cover off I seen that the clutch "shoes" I think is what they are called are worn down to the metal.
 

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Do all the bands look like metal or is it only about half of them? Here is an eBay link that shows some good clutch shoes. How do those stack up against yours? The manual should have some tolerances if you have a caliper and it still dissembled.
 

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What you are trying to adjust effects the clutch basket, not the centrifugal. If you do not have any friction material I would imagine that they are bad. How did it react under power? If you do replace them check the ware on the bell they sit in.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What you are trying to adjust effects the clutch basket, not the centrifugal. If you do not have any friction material I would imagine that they are bad. How did it react under power? If you do replace them check the ware on the bell they sit in.
It didnt really have power but if I started it and just threw it in gear and drove it would go a couple foot then just start slipping or something. It would rev up fine but wouldn't go anywhere
 

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Have you ever taken the clutch basket off before? (the one without the picture you sent)
 

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Ok, I would think it was your centrifugal clutch then. When I took Mine apart to change the timing chain I assembled the clutch basket wrong and it would rev but not move. If you want pictures would help to be 100% certain.
 

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It didnt really have power but if I started it and just threw it in gear and drove it would go a couple foot then just start slipping or something. It would rev up fine but wouldn't go anywhere
By adjusting as you first described, you placed a partial load on clutch pack “disengagement” system (making unit begin to slip after the “couple feet” you mention above) by going against the spring pressure you were feeling as you continued to turn CCW direction beyond feeling ANY “Resistance” (where you should have stopped, then turned adjuster screw CW between 1/16 -1/8 turn before locking with jam nut.

To adjust this properly, loosen the jam nut, turn screw CW UNTIL it’s free (loose) feeling again.
Using only two fingertips on screwdriver, turn CCW until confirmed “resistance” is met. Now, turn CW the above mentioned 1/16 - 1/8 turn and lock jam nut.
Now, shifting will be easier (without slipping under throttle) as the max allowable slack will have been removed from internal disengagement components.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
By adjusting as you first described, you placed a partial load on clutch pack “disengagement” system (making unit begin to slip after the “couple feet” you mention above) by going against the spring pressure you were feeling as you continued to turn CCW direction beyond feeling ANY “Resistance” (where you should have stopped, then turned adjuster screw CW between 1/16 -1/8 turn before locking with jam nut.

To adjust this properly, loosen the jam nut, turn screw CW UNTIL it’s free (loose) feeling again.
Using only two fingertips on screwdriver, turn CCW until confirmed “resistance” is met. Now, turn CW the above mentioned 1/16 - 1/8 turn and lock jam nut.
Now, shifting will be easier (without slipping under throttle) as the max allowable slack will have been removed from internal disengagement components.
Okay thanks for that. Also from the pictures above do you think I need to change the clutch shoes or centrifugal carrier. What exactly are the pieces with the friction material?
 

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Okay thanks for that. Also from the pictures above do you think I need to change the clutch shoes or centrifugal carrier. What exactly are the pieces with the friction material?
The pieces with the friction material are the 3 separate shoes that are spaced at 120* intervals, and from looks of them (and the oil deposits baked onto the drums front/outer circumference/wall lip), they appear to be slipping badly IMO.

I’d at least replace those three (3) items and if you have the $$, the drum itself as well, I’m sure it’s grooved pretty badly by now.

But at least do the 3 centrifugal shoes minimum, as those will be a big help just by doing those themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
By adjusting as you first described, you placed a partial load on clutch pack “disengagement” system (making unit begin to slip after the “couple feet” you mention above) by going against the spring pressure you were feeling as you continued to turn CCW direction beyond feeling ANY “Resistance” (where you should have stopped, then turned adjuster screw CW between 1/16 -1/8 turn before locking with jam nut.

To adjust this properly, loosen the jam nut, turn screw CW UNTIL it’s free (loose) feeling again.
Using only two fingertips on screwdriver, turn CCW until confirmed “resistance” is met. Now, turn CW the above mentioned 1/16 - 1/8 turn and lock jam nut.
Now, shifting will be easier (without slipping under throttle) as the max allowable slack will have been removed from internal disengagement components.
Okay thanks for that. Also from the pictures above do you think I need to change the clutch shoes or centrifugal carrier. What exactly are the pieces with the friction material?
The pieces with the friction material are the 3 separate shoes that are spaced at 120* intervals, and from looks of them (and the oil deposits baked onto the drums front/outer circumference/wall lip), they appear to be slipping badly IMO.

I’d at least replace those three (3) items and if you have the $$, the drum itself as well, I’m sure it’s grooved pretty badly by now.

But at least do the 3 centrifugal shoes minimum, as those will be a big help just by doing those themselves.
So it's only 3 shoes? Because when I look them up for my 4 wheeler to buy them it shows 5 in the pictures. Maybe link me the three things you said to fix?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So what's the easiest way to get the nut that holds clutch centrifugal carrier in place its backwards so I know I need to turn it right but the engine spins aswell.
 
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