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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Just did the front bumper bend back on it LOL... Slight kink in bend, so going to slip over pipe insulation foam pad or Arctic Cat Bar pad to cover it LOL...Backyard Rat sled....
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The air temp sensor is located on the air box. It is the same as my 93 Pantera I had so readings should be the same. Attached is a chart for ohm readings based on air temps.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Hmmm I don't think I remember ever seeing anything on the airbox. I'll check really good. Great help that chart will be thank you so much..
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok, your correct it is up high plugged in box behind wire harness. Not sure if I did it correct, I unplugged a blue wire and a black wire, i put red ohm wire to the blue wire, i put black ohm wire to black wire and it reads 11.50 ohms and it is 87 degrees outside. Engine not running when tested. Are you telling me if I put a plastic water bottle frozen on top of airbox sensor I would or should get a different reading.? I set ohm meter at 20K thats the lowest setting the meter has on it.
 

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You’ll get a higher number when it senses colder air. Use the same chart to test coolant temp sensor too. You could say your number is 1150.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
So is 1150 bad, close, no good etc.... I think coolant sensor has only one wire? so I just ground the black wire on ohm meter?
 

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Manual says replace when not in spec. Personally, I would wait until colder temps to retest unless you remove air sensor and put in freezer or fridge. But you need to know exact temps of the environment it’s in.
 
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Discussion Starter #28
My bad, has two wires black and yellow. Reading was 1.91
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'll drain all fuel in tank. Because I rebuilt ENTIRE engine I have oil injection set a touch high and I have a 50:1 oil/ fuel mix in tank on top of that. But not sure if that would explain why once it warms up it screams. But takes like good 15 times to start and idle before that point. Starts idles and dies out of fuel like 15 times, then it starts idles perfect, then idle drops off a bit as it should, then it screams on throttle rev and runs perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Ok 660 catman.... Ya gave me good info on those sensors to understand this EFI stuff. I'm on to something now. Pull it over few times and idles and dies out of no fuel. I unplugged the sensor on airbox and it fires right up like a carb engine and revs up. Plug wires back in and dies out on start of idle. unplugged the other coolant sensor between the two throtlle bodies and it flooded out. Pulled wires off injectors and it started right back up to clean it out for a second. Thanks man..... I'll get it straight now that I see and understand the EFI parts....
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Pretty well right on then.
I'm getting it, something is acting like a safety to NOT run in 90 degree temps. Like you said-wait till cold weather temps then see..... Thank you VERY much !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thanks to you I now have a understanding how this puter, efi, sensors talk. Even if the sensors etc.. are bad come winter... I got it now understanding it, All I did was fool it by unplugging the air, coolant one that tells that puter what to tell those injectors what to do... Very cool !!! Thank you for being a nice guy with help, lot of guy's don't care to answer question to Rotax guy's... Everyone has there preference in sleds, I'm just old school rotary valve rotax drag racer from many years ago LOL... This is a fun sled to fix up for something to do....
Thanks 660catman !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I have one crack on hood to repair. Just going to mix a bit of clear glass resin, fill in crack with little model paint brush, wet sand it down even, NOT reinforcing the back side... Just cosmetic looks is all. Then turn on the vinyl cutter and cut out two new purple burst graphics a bit larger for both sides to match that will cover the crack. Don't feel like mixing paint etc... New vinyl will hide it LOL...
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