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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Not sure if I can explain this correct LOL... I got a free ZR 580 EFI... It dropped a piston skirt, crank lobes picked it up and blew skirt chunk out the bottom of the Mag side. Got another good case off ebay, rebuilt ENTIRE ENGINE. I put a dial indicator on the PTO side of orig crank, it was true. So I built the engine. Once I was done I got thinking.... If the crank pressed pins slip the crank lobes off a bit, (not welded Crank) would the crank still be true on dial indicator? But crank still is BAD that I used. in other words if the lobes on a crank pin moved would the dial indicator still say it is true at PTO side?
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That there in the end is a crap shoot. I would say that if it did move, it would of likely had run out on the crank end, but can not guarantee it. MORE IMPORTANTLY, Did you clean the bearings and spin them to see if they made ANY noise? That to me would be more to worry about than if the crank run out was still ok. Usually when a crank gobbles up piston chunks, the bearings become toast.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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That there in the end is a crap shoot. I would say that if it did move, it would of likely had run out on the crank end, but can not guarantee it. MORE IMPORTANTLY, Did you clean the bearings and spin them to see if they made ANY noise? That to me would be more to worry about than if the crank run out was still ok. Usually when a crank gobbles up piston chunks, the bearings become toast.
That there in the end is a crap shoot. I would say that if it did move, it would of likely had run out on the crank end, but can not guarantee it. MORE IMPORTANTLY, Did you clean the bearings and spin them to see if they made ANY noise? That to me would be more to worry about than if the crank run out was still ok. Usually when a crank gobbles up piston chunks, the bearings become toast.
Well the bearings never spun in the case, I did check the bearings, seemed to be fine, tight etc.. IDK Cats,(Suzuki) but the bearings in it are pinned in it appeared.I killed it QUIT when it bogged, Then when out in yard with a compression gage and seen the mag side at 92psi.. So I need pull it over three four times after it blew. Thought it seized at first, but pulled cylinders heads off, poured bit of fuel in it LOL and seen it run out the bottom of case LOL...Got it free, never noticed oil injection cable was broke. Put fuel / oil mix in it. It started up and I ran it in yard till it blew LOL...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I was pretty surprised at the sled. It sat for years. I have a like MINT 98 583 MXZ I have stored. And the ZR 580 EFI was FREAKING FAST... That EFI is what does it... When all is set correct. I still prefere Carbs, but ya gotta tinker in temps. That old EFI is DEAD ON when all is correct. For a BIG OLD A$$ heavy sled it is fast.... Have the engine back in sled now, other than the throttle body and clutch. Oil pump cable looks like fun to set LOL....
 

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Not sure if I can explain this correct LOL... I got a free ZR 580 EFI... It dropped a piston skirt, crank lobes picked it up and blew skirt chunk out the bottom of the Mag side. Got another good case off ebay, rebuilt ENTIRE ENGINE. I put a dial indicator on the PTO side of orig crank, it was true. So I built the engine. Once I was done I got thinking.... If the crank pressed pins slip the crank lobes off a bit, (not welded Crank) would the crank still be true on dial indicator? But crank still is BAD that I used. in other words if the lobes on a crank pin moved would the dial indicator still say it is true at PTO side? View attachment 364590 View attachment 364591
You didn't rebuild that engine in you living room, did you?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You didn't rebuild that engine in you living room, did you?
LOL, no but I did put the crank in there. And use dial indicator there LOL So I could see better. LOL... I put down rugs, and wife was not home LOL.. Tore it all apart on messy side of basement, Then put new case, engine back together on nice side of basement LOL. I put the old Case on Craigslist for free. The top half was still good, with case bolts, water jacket cover, oil pump.... Few NEW cheap brand gaskets I never used, bottom cylinder gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, few O-rings.. But nobody wanted it. They all asked for the stator LOL. The headlight lens is a bit dull, so I'll wet sand it with 600, then rub it out with fine compound, then hit it with the buffer with finer stuff. Not going to clear it. Just buff it out nice and clear. Be a nice clean yard rat for around my property for fun. Have new windshield and seat cover coming. Hood is nice, will redo the tunnel sides then lay on the graphics..
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Discussion Starter #7
Here it is when I got it for free, Started up, had coolant seal leaks, oil cable broke, fuel pump quit, etc.... LOL..
 

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I was referring to checking the crank bearings by spinning them on the crank to see if they make noise or sound gritty. Didn't mean spin the bearings in the actual case halves. At this point, you can give it a try. Not sure what time frame would be too long being ran in the yard. Your call.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I was referring to checking the crank bearings by spinning them on the crank to see if they make noise or sound gritty. Didn't mean spin the bearings in the actual case halves. At this point, you can give it a try. Not sure what time frame would be too long being ran in the yard. Your call.
Yes I did check bearings. I replaced the one, it just slides off the end of crank. I have NOT started the engine I rebuilt yet. For fear the crank pin lobes, weights might have moved when it blew. I used the old crank, but it is true when ya turn it. Are those crank weight lobes pressed pinned on the crank? or are they stationary and cant turn, slip on the crank? pinned etc... to crank. Not talking about side lash, crank run out... I'm not explaining it very good, sorry.
 

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If its what I think it is, the pins set into the case and the crank fits onto the pin that are in the case so the bearings can't spin. Yes the lobes are a press fit. It takes alot to move a crank. If the belt blew and the belt was high on the primary, (where it has a lot of leverage) it can move. Otherwise, they usually don't move at all. You don't have tons of horsepower so my guess is it did not move. Did you actually use a dial indicator on the end of the crankshaft where the primary clutch attaches to while spinning it over slowly to check the crank run out? Should be under 2 1/2 thou. approximately. (.0025".)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok thank you. No I used the dial on top of the crank at PTO to check movement up and down. Qeuss I checked for the wrong movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
TCAT446 ,Thank you for all my questions answered buddy. She fired up today and she is alive LOL... Only hassle was the new throttle cable adjustments to throttle body and oil pump. I can see some improvements on that engineering LOL. And the coolant took a few minutes to bleed out nice, sits on a trailer nose down. And that so called airbox was a bitch for few minutes. Hey by the way NICE restore in your media pics. Is that a Cuda or a Challenger? I'm a Chevy Vette guy. My first car when I was a kid was a copper colored Challenger with 340 and auto. Rear end was LIGHT, to light for a crazy kid at the time LOL.. Think mine was a 1973. Can't remember, I got it from my Mom at 17 years old. I'm 62 now LOL... Had three Vettes I built for small town shows, and fun drivers. I never won any LOL, got second and third few times. BUT I did all work myself, motor and paint. Winners were always high end money cars they had built, painted. I was just a bar hopper with fun rods I did ALL MYSELF. The Blown Vette with hood off NOT mine, that one always won.
Team Rotax
Thank you Tcat446
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here it is tcat446....... EVERYTHING on it is correct now and works for a around the property sled bomber. Now I just gotta get a new little smoke windshield, Paint tunnel, Strip and paint hood. I have oil injection advanced a bit, and a Oil/fuel mix in it for rebuild start up. I'll leave the injection advanced, it's just a yard fun RAT... No sense in ruining engine for high end RPM on a yard fun sled, I have like $400.00 - 500.00 in motor and sensors I rebuilt. LOL

 

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Discussion Starter #14
I should pull the EFI motor and puter back out. Put it in a COMPLETELY stripped 70's El Tigre or Z leaf spring chassis, make a sleeper out of it LOL. Build my own front end to tunnel, just drop a nice hood over it with pins LOL. Put on a set of old Aaen open pipes with stingers so not to LOUD etc.. lol.
 

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Ya its a Cuda. Green one is a 1970 440-6pk. and the blue one a 1973 318 with a nice stereo and an amp in the trunk. And your welcome. Sounds ready to go from that vid!
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FTR, after reading this topic, unless a Cat (Suzuki) engine is spinning at least 3000 rpms (then suddenly locks up SOLID, and not rapidly lose rpms down to zero instead, as if heavy brakes were suddenly appiled) the cranks in them will not twist out of index.
Yes, they could experience a touch of runout, but not very likely to be substantial from just chunking a piston skirt through the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
The windshield is like $80.00 So I cut this one down 4 inches to remove the crack in it, then I put Automotive door trim on top of it. My next thing to replace is the seat vinyl.... Also have to repair front bumper still... And a new fuel tank cap.Windshield cut came out nice, looks like a little Pro Stock Windshield LOL.. But just a yard rat sled. Did little paint on the skid plates on tunnel that use to be purple. Have couple spots on hood to dust in blend new paint, then wet sand rub, buff out headlight lens.
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Discussion Starter #18
Ok I have EFI questions LOL... I decided to see if this motor would rev up finally after rebuild instead of just an idle. Starts everytime and idles with slight throttle rev, give it a good rev and runs out of fuel at higher rev and dies, Does this like 15-20 times starting it till it warms up. Then it revs up. I'm old school carb guy, does this EFI, puter etc... need to learn the temps? it's like 85 degrees outside and runs out of fuel. Carbs would be flooded, this EFI runs out of fuel until it warms up, in 85 degree weather? then runs perfect.... Do I have a bad sensor? engine build it self is PERFECT, this is a fuel, sensor, puter etc.. problem till it warms up. Any ideas?
 

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There’s an air temp sensor and a coolant temp sensor. Air temp sensor giving way different reading compared with coolant sensor in which they are screwing with proper running. In the service manual there should be test procedures on sensors based on temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have no manual for this sled. I got it free and rebuilt engine etc... for fun is all. You have a pic of the air temp sensor? And thank you 660 catman....
 
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