It was imitation. However the lack of RPM problem (bogging) also occurs when I bypass the regulator. It is possible I have TWO simultaneous problems, but I am still trying to determine if I should have continuity to ground from both wires going to the regulator on the wiring harness side?
1994 ZR580 Carbed NEED HELP
Hey all my name is Dave. I am chasing a sled gremlin to no avail and have exhhuasted everything I can think and read to no avail so I thought I would hit the knowledge base.
The first thing I would like to find if possible is the wiring diagrams. Is my only option to buy a manual? I used to have such luck in the past with finding them online.
So my issue is not an uncommon one, however the causes can be vast. Often I my sled will bog and not get up to clutch engagement RPM I also have been toasting my head and tail light.
I have extensively cleaned and recleaned the carbs, synced the carbs, I have replaced the voltage regulator, I have ohmed out the stator and tested the voltage which all seem to be in acceptable range, I have gone over and over the harness and even rewired parts of it that pass though with the cooling lines. checked and regapped plugs, spark looks bright, when I do the bypass at the four prong plug from the stator I have same result. I think that most of it.
Any more ideas, diagrams**, advice would be hugely appreciated. I love this sled and want to fix it.
I also have one other question for the experts, when I remove the plug for the voltage regulator I get continuity to groud from both the yellow and the brown wire... This does not seem right at all. I i check it at the stator I get nothing shorted to ground.
I know this is a book, just want to be through so I am not wasting too much time.
Thanks for reading.
P.S. can the stator possible create a short to ground bypassing my regulator when its hot and fry my lamps??
The first thing I would like to find if possible is the wiring diagrams. Is my only option to buy a manual? I used to have such luck in the past with finding them online.
So my issue is not an uncommon one, however the causes can be vast. Often I my sled will bog and not get up to clutch engagement RPM I also have been toasting my head and tail light.
I have extensively cleaned and recleaned the carbs, synced the carbs, I have replaced the voltage regulator, I have ohmed out the stator and tested the voltage which all seem to be in acceptable range, I have gone over and over the harness and even rewired parts of it that pass though with the cooling lines. checked and regapped plugs, spark looks bright, when I do the bypass at the four prong plug from the stator I have same result. I think that most of it.
Any more ideas, diagrams**, advice would be hugely appreciated. I love this sled and want to fix it.
I also have one other question for the experts, when I remove the plug for the voltage regulator I get continuity to groud from both the yellow and the brown wire... This does not seem right at all. I i check it at the stator I get nothing shorted to ground.
I know this is a book, just want to be through so I am not wasting too much time.
Thanks for reading.
P.S. can the stator possible create a short to ground bypassing my regulator when its hot and fry my lamps??
1 - 15 of 27 Posts
The belt is new, the clutches appear to function normally, when the bogging isn't not occurring. I have removed the belt also when I have the issue and it is still present.well the bogging can be clutching also.
what have you done with the clutches and your belt?
ok
what is compression?
i would suspect stator, what are readings cold and h
Thanks for the response, this is the question I am most puzzled about. I get the closed loop, or almost dead short to ground even when the bulbs are out. I will double check to be certain when I go get exact hot/cold stator numbers.Yes, You should have a high resistance reading [ground] on both wires. If you do not, you would have an open circuit, current would not flow. Picture this, You have a light bulb, you disconnect the battery for testing. You hook up an Ohm meter- one lead to ground, the other lead to the Positive side of bulb- you would show a resistance [ of the bulb filament] to ground. If you do not, you have an open circuit [blown bulb filament].
Is it possible to get a wiring diagram?
I have not checked compression, however it runs like a dream until the problem occursok
what is compression?
i would suspect stator, what are readings cold and hot?
I will absolutely follow up with with results once I get this figured out. I hate finding a forum that covers my issue, and then at the end the person never follows up with how it was fixed or if anything there worked. I WILL FOLLOW UP.Well, even with the bulbs out, you still have loads [grip warmers, etc] and then their is the stator itself. If you feel you have a 12v shorted to ground, you would have to remove ALL loads. If you had a short [12v to ground], you would most likely have blown fuses, melted wires , and smoke. Nothing you have said indicates you do. at least at this point.
May be difficult finding a service manual with a wiring diagram due to the age of sled, that's what you really need. Problems like this are often beyond the realm of what forums can do, unfortunatly. Just keep us informed of your testing and the results, and we will try to do the best we can.
I'm wondering, to rule out a 12volt short to ground if you insist you have one, is to power up all your accessories [bulbs, heated hand grips,etc.] with a battery and hooked up with a fuse [in case you do have a short, fuse will blow instead of wires smoking], with the sled engine OFF. If you can power up your accessories with a fused 12 volt battery with the sled engine off, that would rule out a short. Just like turning on your key on your car to get the lights to come on-engine off. Just thinking out loud here....
Hand warmers melted down prior to me so they are already bypassed.
Thanks, I will keep you posted.
The battery and fuse idea is a great idea, I will try it today.
ok
what is compression?
i would suspect stator, what are readings cold and hot?
Sorry for the delay, I am still working on this thing.ok
what is compression?
i would suspect stator, what are readings cold and hot?
Here are the stator readings:
cold 156 17 173
hot 165 18 183
So I could not get a fuse to blow, nor could I get the voltage to spike while connected to the multi meter. It is solid at right around 12v. I am still at a total loss.I have not checked compression, however it runs like a dream until the problem occurs
I will absolutely follow up with with results once I get this figured out. I hate finding a forum that covers my issue, and then at the end the person never follows up with how it was fixed or if anything there worked. I WILL FOLLOW UP.
Hand warmers melted down prior to me so they are already bypassed.
Thanks, I will keep you posted.
The battery and fuse idea is a great idea, I will try it today.
Should I check it right from the stator, with regulator unplugged?Put the track up and run it at 4,000 rpm with a voltmeter on it. Then check for peak voltage.
Should I check it right from the stator, with regulator unplugged?
Also cleaned up all the grounds, and redid plug wires. It runs great until I plug in the regulator.Should I check it right from the stator, with regulator unplugged?
Also cleaned up all the grounds, and redid plug wires. It runs great until I plug in the regulator.
I get that solid.No, everything hooked up. Arctic Cat says [for my '99 Pantera] any yellow wire [accessory power wire] should do. 11-13 volts AC.
Okay, I have decided to go with my gut and replace the stator. It should be here this week.
I went with one from EBay from sledpartsguy. Not OEDid you buy an Arctic Cat OE stator, used, or an imitation one?
Okay this sucks! lol.Make sure you keep your old stator. You can have statorkev rewind it for you. When the imitation one goes bad, you can use your rewound one. I am on my 3rd season with statorkev's rewind.
By the way, are you replacing stator for an overcharging problem?
So I was replaceing the stator due to a bogging down issue. It would happen when the sled was warm and then escalted to all the time if I had the load of regulator plugged in.
So I replaced the stator and I was off to the races!! Ran better and faster then I remembered!....Until it didn't, after about fifteen minutes I stopped for a minute, leaving the sled running, when I went to take off the bogging was back! after kinda nursing the throttle I got it wind back up and I was off for awhile, once again when I stopped it didn't want to get going again.
Is my new stator the problem once again?
I am 100% sure it was the stator.
My lights burning out and my voltage regulator were unrelated to my loss of power. that was grounding issues.
I bought the stator online not OEM and not Rebuild by KevWhat are the stator readings when it is running bad and when it is completely cold?
You put in a stator kevin rewind or new arctic cat?
I have not taken hot cold redings on the NEW stator as I just installed it. It is difficult to predict when it will act up and its a come and go issue now.
with the old stator in my hand it looks good at room temp, however if I pick it up and move it around my high speed coil number goes from 18 and bounces up and back down all over the place. I never noticed this when it was in the machine.
Read my mind... I have already sent an email to Kev to get the ball rollingWell send you old stator to kev.
Pull the junk new one out and send it back to them.
1 - 15 of 27 Posts
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