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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The clutch isnt the issue. It ran fine before with same clutch. Changed track and went riding and it started to bog throughout the day and when take off from like idle it wont go great, gotta feather it and finally gets up and goes.. Is there screws that adjust that? Like air/mixture, low end high end screws? Not super use to snowmobile motors and carbs....
 

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I've found most low end bogging problems are either misadjusted chokes or plugged main jets. Just my 2 cents.
 

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These snowmobile carbs use fixed jetting. These is an air screw to help tune idle mixture, but there is no high speed adjuster screw. You said it ran fine before you changed the track. Is that the only thing that has changed since it last ran OK? If that is the case I'd look to things like a stuck choke, or dirt in the inlet needle and seat, as something that is causing an overly rich condition at low speeds. Tipping the sled on it's side to change the track should not cause any carb adjustment to change. The idle air screw won't move from the sled being tipped. I think that maybe some debris in the fuel system may have been dislodged during that process and is causing flooding.
 

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Just out of curiosity, what track change did you make? do you have less studs now or different style lugs? You said that it ran fine, you changed the track, now it runs boggy, so it makes that your problem stems from your change. Also, as zr580 said, the process of changing your track shouldn't change anything in the carbs.

It sounds to me like your track isn't hooking up as good and probably spinning a lot, thus the need to "feather it" before it really goes (too much HP going to the track at too high of RPMs with too little traction = track spinning). IF this is the case, then you have the option of adding studs or lowering your clutch engagement, if not keep searching.
 

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Diff was a motor bog, not traction issue. Has 144 studs and a aftermarket clutch. Im guessing when i flipped sled on side in field to see why it wouldnt move, must have gotten particles in carbs , took them off and blew them out and Adjusted Choke just cuz it didnt have any free play and sled rips off the line. Out messin yesterday and pullin skis off ground to about chest high. Hasnt ran that great since ive owned it. Thinkin Choke was miss adjusted and i never checked it when i installed the motor.

I broke skid slide rail and replaced that and track and also had sled on its side and sky high with cherry picker..Gonna drain tank and clean it out next warm week
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Still low end bog, Like coming out of corners it still is sluggish and gotta feather throttle and then takes off..Maybe not gettin enough gas or to much? Did take carbs off and left side Slide moves about a 1/4 in before right side carb slide moves. That make it run crappy off line? Or could air screw be out to far? Any ideas where it needs to be stock? The needle clip is set where it should be....Clutch engages at about 4200 and its aftermarket but not sure what it is..
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Could it be gettin to much oil injected at low end??? Could that cause it to bog also? Inner carb boot to cylinder was pretty covered in oil
 

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Your carbs need to be syncronized . If you have a slide that is moving up before the other, the one side of the motor is working harder than the other. Start from all your base settings. Look in your book to get all settings back to factory specs then fine tune from there. Your slides need to be set up identically. Do not swap your carbs from side to side either, one may be a different jetting than the other. Your mag side usually runs a little hotter than the PTO side. If you don't have a book you need one. The process of syncronizing is relatively simple but, you need the book. Do not ride the sled untill you do that. Could break something and that would really suck, eh?


You have to start here....could have other issues but those carbs have to be right.

Later

SPDFREEK
 

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I have syncranized carbs by using a nail or thin piece of metal. Slide the nail into the carb opening and adjust the cable to match each side, worked great for me, I know there are air flow sync's out there if you can get your hands on them.JM2CNTS
 

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Glenn
I got the message. I'm not a mechanic but I agree with what was said above. Carbs could probably use an internal cleaning and an adjustment.
 

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ok guys and you few ladies.. Ii need some help too I have a 99 ZR 700 with 2800 miles on it and it is running like crap.. Last year I put about 2600 miles on it and it ran like a raped ape APEX's were having a hard time keeping up. Anyway This fall I took off the carbs and cleaned them and put them back on and started it and it was back firing on me I have never had a 2 stroke back fire but it was so i adjusted the lower screw on the carb and it was fine it seemed?? I tried to ride it and it was bogging down it would run great for about a tenth of a mile tan bog down. Now I cant get the darn thing started?? any suggestions.. Thanks
 
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