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1994 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700 EFI
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y’all,

Hoping I can get some help with this, as I’m a bit lost on where to go from here..

I have a 1994 Wildcat 700 EFI, it’s swapped into a ext 580 body but as far as I know everything but the body was converted to the WC components. (Bought it this way)
Anyways, I’ve started it a bunch the past couple of weeks getting it ready for the season, & it’s started with no issue. 2 weeks ago, I changed out all the driveshaft bearings & swapped the track. I had er on its side for about 15mins during this. From memory, I believe I started it again with no issue after I did all this but not certain.
Fast forward to today, got a good snow where I am so I went to throw a new battery in, and when i turned key, nothing. I can hear relays and all when hooked to the battery, so that seems normal. ECU is blinking; 1 long 3 short.
I was reading that this may indicate the intake temp sensor is stuck open or shorting. No idea what could have went wrong since the last start up.
Have any of you had this issue before? & where do I begin to try and solve it?

sorry for the paragraph, just trying to give all the info!
Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks guys
 

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I can't confirm the code for you, but once you confirm the code that will be where you start. If the code is for the intake temp sensor, then start there. Take a close look at it, try to confirm it's operation with ohm readings and if it is bad, then replace it. Don't go chasing other things until you address what the code indicates.
 

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That code is for the air temperature sensor. Use this chart to determine resistance on sensor based on ambient air temperature

365652
 

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1994 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700 EFI
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can't confirm the code for you, but once you confirm the code that will be where you start. If the code is for the intake temp sensor, then start there. Take a close look at it, try to confirm it's operation with ohm readings and if it is bad, then replace it. Don't go chasing other things until you address what the code indicates.
After confirming online, & from others, it’s a short/open circuit in the intake temp sensor. I’ve done a ton of research of what I should be looking for, found everything except for exact location. Im pretty mechanically inclined, but I cannot find this sensor. I’ve looked all over the intake, and can’t find any wires or anything that looks like it coming out of the intake body ( except for throttle sensor)
Any Idea where I should be directly looking?
 

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Sensor should be in the air intake box itself. It may be hard to see. 550, 580, and 700’s have same sensor part number too.
 

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1994 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700 EFI
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sensor should be in the air intake box itself. It may be hard to see. 550, 580, and 700’s have same sensor part number too.
That probably explains why I can’t find it.. the sled didn’t come with the box.. is it possible the connector for the sensor plugs into that empty grey plug in the pics?
 

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Yep, you're missing a critical component to run the sled. Don't run it in the snow until you get an airbox and air boot. Boot connects box to throttle body. I'm sure that's the plug too.
 

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What year is the 580 body?
 

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1994 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700 EFI
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep, you're missing a critical component to run the sled. Don't run it in the snow until you get an airbox and air boot. Boot connects box to throttle body. I'm sure that's the plug too.
Oh how perfect! Haha. Now, out of curiosity if you know, how was the sled able to run before & now all of a sudden nothing?

Let the part hunt begin.. hopefully I have some luck in finding these...
 

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Problem now is you may need to get air box from EXT 580 to fit in there as console is different than WC 700. For some reason the parts fische does not show airbox and boot section for the EXT.
 

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1994 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700 EFI
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Problem now is you may need to get air box from EXT 580 to fit in there as console is different than WC 700. For some reason the parts fische does not show airbox and boot section for the EXT.
I am going to assume that’s the reason it wasn’t in there in the first place. I should have noticed..

You said the sensor is the same, right? So If I manage to find a 580 box with sensor, it should be compatible with the 700?
 

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I am going to assume that’s the reason it wasn’t in there in the first place. I should have noticed..

You said the sensor is the same, right? So If I manage to find a 580 box with sensor, it should be compatible with the 700?
Yes, they are the exact same part number
 

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1994 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700 EFI
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, they are the exact same part number
Hey Catman,
So I ended up finding a sensor from local shop near me. Plugged it in, code went away, I am getting one flash to show ECU is good. but that's it. I have now lost the spark I had before, and I can't seem to be getting power to much of anything besides the ECU.

Everything was working perfectly fine 2 weeks ago & now no power 🙃

I've checked all the connections coming of the battery, everything looks good. Battery is brand new, not even a week old & is at full charge. One thing to be noted is, when I hook the sled up to the battery I can hear the relays, and all that cycle. But that's all. When I turn key, nothing happens. Not sure where to even begin to look, as this is a bit of a frankinsled so everything is a bit messy.

Any suggestions would be great, thanks!
 

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Is the key off when you hooked up battery and heard relays? Did you hear the pump at all? Usually about 2-3 seconds unless it’s priming system then it will be longer.
 

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1994 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700 EFI
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is the key off when you hooked up battery and heard relays? Did you hear the pump at all? Usually about 2-3 seconds unless it’s priming system then it will be longer.
When hooking up the battery, this key can be on/off or even out & I will still hear the relays & pump. I will only hear the pump for a couple seconds like you said. Is this normal?
 

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That’s not normal. Key in off position no matter what position kill switch is in should not have power going through it. Key on, kill switch off should not have power to relays or pump either.
 
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