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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, after about 2 weeks of messing around to get the quad to run right here is what i have replaced

-New Spark Plug CR6E
- TPS Sensor
- Fuel Line
- Remapped the VDI Copperhead
- Fuel Pump - Old one was getting 42psi, but would make crazy noises so i said efff it, ill replace it. Dealer cost is around $330-$400.

I looked on this site for the Mustang Fuel Pump Install couldn't find it just how to do it or people have done it.. Well I just completed it for $112 dollars.

Advanced Auto
Mustang Fuel Pump - E2061 Life Time Warranty
Screen Filter - FS111



First, I removed the battery, then the 4 bolts that hold the rack on as well as all the torx head screws that hold the footwells on. Dont forget to remove the brake light bulb.

Once the rear plastic is off disconnect the fuel pump electrical connection.







Also disconnect the fuel line from the pump. Little clip you slide out. (if you break it, the new fuel pump comes with 2 sliding clips)





Once you have removed the connection remove the 4 screws that hold the pump in the tank.


You will need to tilt/angle to remove the pump just remember how you took it out.

Now with the pump out, you can unplug the large black connector that is connected to the pump and cut the metal band located at the bottom. This will allow you to slide the old pump down and out.

Break the black connector to expose the 2 spade connectors.





With the pump out, you can remove the black rubber spacer from the old pump and install it on the new pump.




Connect the Positive and Negative terminals to the appropriate spades (Marked on the new pump when looking down at it)



Slide the new pump up and secure it with he half circle clip at the bottom and secure it with a tie wrap.




attach the new screen/filter to the bottom of the pump.



You have now completed the rebuild on your fuel pump. Install by doing the reverse order by installing the pump assembly, secure it with the 4 screws, reconnect the electrical connector, reattach the fuel line, and install plastics.

I am only getting 40psi, but figure the pump is for 4 injectors. Started right up after a couple on/off's to prime the line.

Road for 30 minutes, shut it off, started right up.


Wish I did this before I did the mustang pump, but I am up and running...

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
i removed the small connector with the blue and gray wires but did not need too.
 

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Good write up, I read long ago that the mustang pump would work, never tried it or seen it done by anyone though.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wyo,

Its the least I could do. This site has been a great help when I was doubting the Cat, and regretted selling my Honda, but after a great deal of learning I do love my CAT.

I read all over how to do it, but no one claimed to accomplished the goal. Between the TPS, and new fuel pump I am still ahead of the game before giving the stealership 400 for a pump. If they just let you buy the walbro pump and not the assembly it would be such an easy change out.

Thanks for all your right up Wyo.

Justin




Good write up, I read long ago that the mustang pump would work, never tried it or seen it done by anyone though.
 
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should repost this to the pinned section =D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Guys,

Well I may have found a solution for the fuel pumps. I installed a

WALBRO 255LPH HIGH PRESSURE IN-TANK FUEL PUMP ONLY GSS340 today in a customers car today because he wanted more fuel for his modification. (Saab)

The fuel Pump is almost exact to our cat pumps and this a WALBRO.

 

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do you know the working pressure it puts out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Idk 255lph, 55psi on the Mustang terminator

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 

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In Brief:

Bought used 2009 700 EFI H1 Black with 120 hr.s o it to deploy and recover equipment for my beach rental business.

Ran great for about 6 hours then started rough idle
Checked and cleaned plug and put in fuel injector cleaner
Result: No idle and finally wouldn't fire up

Battery almost new fully charged, took it in to get new anyway
Result: Load tested good (100%)

Checked Diagnostics
Result: No Trouble Codes

Checked TPS
Result: Center Bar on diagnostic

Reset Idle: Installed jumper on diagnostic plug, depressed throttle fully, turned key on, clicking sound from throttle body for about 5 seconds with the TPS indicator bar showing high, kep key and throttle depressed for 15 plus seconds, turned key off, released throttle.
Result: ? ATV still wouldn't fire

Removed, cleaned and tested plug (again)
Result: Good spark but changed plug (proactive with maint.)

Disconnected fuel line at injector rail, energized fuel pump
Result: little fuel (a few drips then nothing)

Changed under-fender fuel filter.
Result: Better flow at injector end of fuel line

Removed injector and tested hooked up to ATV electrically and fuel
Result: Injector fires but seems to quickly drop in output even when throttle is depressed.

Disconnected and cleaned injector
Result: Injector fires a better test pattern against cardboard but output quickly drops as before, (even with throttle depressed)(battery turning machine over strong)

Installed injector, disconnected fuel line from injector rail, dumped fuel into throttle body then reconnected line to injector
Result: Motor fired up, no problem but wouldn't run beyond fuel in throttle body

Removed fuel from tank
Result: Fuel looked good and lawnmower fires right up with fuel so think fuel was good

Instead of getting a fuel pressure tester I ordered an inline fuel pressure gauge and manifold, should be in tomorrow. My thought is to install it next to the under-fender fuel filter. In this way I can easily check the pump and filter output at a glance, no fuss, no muss. Not sure I would recommend this mod. for someone raising hell with their machine, but my Cat is just going to haul gear on and off the beach so I don't think it will get trashed. If someone wanted to, they could modify the filter bracket and put a guard on it to protect the gauge.

Removed fuel pump for visual inspection
Result: Pump looked good but that was before I ran across your excellent post so I didn't really know what to look for.

Will remove pump again and check regulator o-ring, low pressure discharge from regulator port and rubber adapter at top of pump.

Anyway, I have learned a lot about my ATV from this forum and thank all who have taken the time to help educate.

I will contribute detailed photos of my gauge install and pump rebuild (if necessary).

Thanks again to all who have gone before, suffered and educated so I may not suffer as they have!
 

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Thanks !!
 

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Success!

Rigged fuel pressure gauge inline between under-fender filter and injector rail.

Removed pump housing from fuel tank and fired up fuel pump in pail of gas.
Result: Fuel ran out of pressure regulator around o-ring seat and from the top of the fuel pump. Gauge showed maybe 5 PSI.
De-energized pump.

Pressed down on regulator to get it to seat.
Result: Fuel shot out the return, and overpressure ports.

Pulled fuel pump out of housing.
Result: Rubber grommet was severely rotted and split completely down its length.
Solution. I cut and installed a length of fuel line and reinstalled pump.

Removed retaining clip and fuel pressure regulator.
Result: Regulator o-rings were both rotten and deformed.

Ordered new regulator from Autozone and installed. The regulator seated firmly and the retaining clip went in properly.

Set fuel pump in bucket of fuel and energized pump.
Result: Pump ran up a little over 40 PSI and shut down with some overflow from the regulator.

Reinstalled pump housing in fuel tank and fired up energized ATV.
Result: Pump pressurized system to a little over 40 PSI and shut down.

Tested for diagnostic codes.
Result: No codes.

Fired up starter.
Result: Bike backfired loudly once and started up! The permanently mounted inline fuel gauge showed a steady 41-42 PSI.
at idle.

After warming in up I noticed the throttle response was far better than I had experienced since owning the bike. Obviously the failing components had a major effect on the performance prior to outright failing to pressurize the injector to a level of operation.

In Sum, can't express my gratitude enough for the information provided on this forum.
Even though I didn't get into the electrical aspect of the fuel delivery system I can now say that I now know a lot about the 700 EFI system.
I also think that having an in-line fuel pressure gauge is an excellent addition as one can at a glance observe potential faults be they pre-pump filter, pump, regulator or under-fender filter.

Thanks again to all!
 

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Good job!
 

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Help!

Does anyone know where I can get the 1/4" rubber spacer/seal that goes on the top of the fuel pump outlet mine is torn and it releases the pressure. I can only get 4 psi and then if the pump is not on it drops to zero. I believe the spacer is releasing the pressure.

AC does not sell them nor can I get a part number.

Thanks!

Skippy
 

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Help!

Does anyone know where I can get the 1/4" rubber spacer/seal that goes on the top of the fuel pump outlet mine is torn and it releases the pressure. I can only get 4 psi and then if the pump is not on it drops to zero. I believe the spacer is releasing the pressure.

AC does not sell them nor can I get a part number.

Thanks!

Skippy
any luck finding this??
 
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