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Discussion Starter #42

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Discussion Starter #43
I was hoping you'd chime in. This is a dual fuel pump,so instead of installing the Mikuni single pump DF52-73 are you saying to rebuild the dual pumps?
It wants to run when fuel is added to the right cylinder but the left side keeps flooding the plug. Can't figure out how to remove air box to remove carbs
for disassembly to inspect and clean. Also I believe the front shocks are bad as the left one has no rebound,have to pull up on sled to do so. Any
suggestions for replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I have the links you posted,thanks, it appears these are the original carbs,they eliminated the emergency plug or whatever it's called
 

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I was hoping you'd chime in. This is a dual fuel pump,so instead of installing the Mikuni single pump DF52-73 are you saying to rebuild the dual pumps?
It wants to run when fuel is added to the right cylinder but the left side keeps flooding the plug. Can't figure out how to remove air box to remove carbs
for disassembly to inspect and clean. Also I believe the front shocks are bad as the left one has no rebound,have to pull up on sled to do so. Any
suggestions for replacement?
Rebuilding the twin pumps for no reason just because their there. Their over kill anyways maybe if you happen to lose a pump still would have one. But most of the times they go rich instead of not pumping. You have a new twin feed pump use that just as good. Pulling the air box is a big deal just for a carb clean. Lube up the bell on the carb I use fuel gas mixture because I have some. But WD 40 light oil would work.

Loosen the clamp on the motor side. Then push the carb into the boot on the air box a little force its flexable will come right out. They sell aftermarket shocks cheaper than OEM. If you flooding choke stuck open, stuck or misadjusted float, bad or dirty neefle and seat
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Thanks for the carb removal tips,that air box design is a doozy for sure. Ordered a service manual off E/Bay, gonna need it for this project ,been along time since
I've turned wrenches on a snowmobile. Not knowing what's been done to this sled, what radiator pressure cap do you recommend,this one is bad and what
thermostat to you recommend,the price for a stock one shocked me back a few steps. What plugs do you recommend resistor or non and type of plug wire caps.
 

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I use resistors in mine NGK caps and plugs cheap BR9ES solid top not the screw on tops. Cant say on the rad cap never replaced one. Same on the thermo, know their expensive for what they are. If your going to trail run it have to have it in there it will be slow to warm then get hot. Dont need one if going to run up and down the road a few times. I run mine pretty hard with thermo, temp gauge never moves once up to temp. Know it works in the summer runs 15-20 minutes on a stand and needle goes into the orange and spits some out the rad cap
 

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Discussion Starter #49
That company just had a price increase,thermo went up to 75😂 it is what it is. Got it running today ,carbs are out of sync,will adjust later. Compression is 125-120,engine
sound real strong with good throttle control on the stand . Now comes my biggest headache, the track is shot big time, what would you recommend for a suspension
upgrade and drivers to use. What type of track would be good for snow and trails by 121- 15- 1". I have the bolt pattern for a Xtra 10(hard to find) but I can't find any distant #s
from drive shaft to the first arm bolt for a ski doo SC10-2 or 3. I open for opinions.
On the oil injection,I've read where some have experienced piston failures due to oil pump breaking,what do I need to look for in terms of wear?
 

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For track hard to beat at Tracks USA has Durosport 121x15x.75 on sale $199 sounds like getting ready or already have discontinued. I'm liking it for my latest sled. You can use your old drivers if you move them. If you have to get new drivers Wahl Anti rachet are no brainer and only need 2 but have to pay for the design. Have to get on a doo site for measurements for doo suspensions. Doo Talk could help you out. Dont rule out widen your suspension to 9 inch. Study it for a few weeks to see how it can be done. Havent heard anything on oil pump breakage or wear. But would make sense if a spec of dirt plugged a check valve and failed the motor. Jump on it New NOS Arctic Cat Cap Radiator Pantera Cheetah El Tigre | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Well my fears struck, the initial start up was for a few seconds,shut it off to check the motor over and I saw
the right cylinder oil injection hose laying underneath the motor. Pulled the exhaust and the piston was galled
big time. How do I drain the antifreeze and what can be done to repair the cylinder or get another one in good shape?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Broke the cylinder down and I must say those cylinders are tough,just a little aluminum build up on the intake port divider but the piston is totally wiped out.
Any suggestion where to buy new pistons and how to clean up aluminum build up?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Got the cylinder all cleaned up,just need to radius the exhaust port a bit to match the other cylinder. Ordered complete OEM gasket kit and OEM pistons with rings off Ebay,saved a bunch of money but had to order a few parts from Alfa.
 

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The oil pump is a positive displacement type if the oil cant go will force the lines off the cylinder if nipple plugged check there
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Right cylinder oil line was laying underneath motor broken in several pieces and was still pumping oil from check valve. Left was still attached but how it was able to lube is beyond me because is was so brittle that when touching it just crumbled to pieces,so I got lucky on that cylinder but still ordered a set of pistons. Will check the nipple
on the bad cylinder.

I tried searching how to adjust oil lube injection to achieve 50 to 1 ratio, do you by any chance know the thread title ? Does the oil pump lube the crank bearings by jets or lube
passages?
 

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Oil pumps vary some have only two feeds one for each cylinder just mixes with the fuel like a premix lube. Another will have a third feed that goes to the crank case for a little extra and or to lube the pump gear and even the water pump on some.. When you get your carbs sync up. Tape the throttle wide open then look at the oil pump. A small mechanics mirror works good. Theres a line on the pump arm and one on the pump they should line up or adjust them to line up

To know your ratio fill your oil tank about 7/8 full put a piece of tape with a line at the oil level. Fill your gas tank full. Then go for your average ride fast slow every thing in between at least 50 plus miles the more the better. Get an old measuring cup and use that to fill the oil tank up to the tape line noting the amount of ounces it took. Top off your gas tank note the gallons. Change your gallons to ounces Divide them up to get the ratio. To change the ratio adjust the pump arm just slightly above for more oil or below for less oil.Then do another test ride
 
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