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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone first time poster here!

Let's get right into it.

I recently inherited a 1987 Super Jag from my grandfather. It has been suspended in his barn for some undeterminable amount of time. He's sure it ran when he parked it, but didn't know what it would need to run again.

This is the list of my current (known) problems:

- Before it was given to me, it was looked over and someone decided that they were going to test the integrity of the fuel lines (n) needless to say they snapped like dry spaghetti. I have no idea how the lines are routed, I've printed off the available parts diagrams but that only partially helps my case.

- Track won't turn, was towed approx. 300 ft and never budged. The brake lever isn't budging either, not sure if its related.

So, to those with experience or any insight, how should I proceed? Should I get the engine fired up before doing the repairs?

Thanks in advance for your help!!

Steve
 

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Well, lets start with the fuel lines. The fuel pump has 1 arrow pointing to the center of the pump. That comes from the fuel tank. The other arrow that points out goes to the carb. The one brass fitting in the center goes to the engine pulse line. If you have 1 brass fitting left with the arrow also pointing out, that one needs to be capped off. If you don't have that type of pump, your good to go. Now, What i would do because you don't know how long it sat, I would take the carb off and have it torn down and sonic cleaned. I would also replace the pump because the diaphragms are probably shot from age.Then there is a fuel line inside the tank,(a pickup line) that needs to be replaced as it too is probably rotted. Then replace with all new 1/4" line. Now to the track,,, take the belt off, and lift the rear of the machine up on a jackstand or what ever you have, and try to turn the secondary clutch by hand to turn the track. See if it free's up.
 

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The second steps. Pull the exhaust off and open up the chain case and check the gears line up. Hope for the best that they do. When the speedo side drive bearing goes way beyond just wearing out will walk out the case and do bad things. Hope for the best that the speedo side drive bearing is just seized up. The bearings in the chaincase last a long time the jackshaft not too bad either. But the drive bearing under the speedo housing doing good if you get 5 years out of them if you drive it alot.. Should change it even if you get your track freed up
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys for the info! I'm not exactly mechanically inclined, but I enjoy tinkering a bit so this should prove to be a fun project. The machine itself is cosmetically in great shape as it was stored in a shelter, albeit not a weather tight one.

As I get to getting these things done, i'll post updates!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So here’s where I am.

I’ve cleaned the carb, it actually wasn’t as bad as I anticipated, then reinstalled.

I poured some oil into each cylinder and with the plugs removed slowly pulled the cord about 20 times slowly then gradually sped up the pulls. After that I dribbled some mixed fuel into each cylinder and tried my luck. The machine fired first pull.

I had anticipated removing the fuel pump to check the diaphragm, but instead decided to test it prior to removal. I had a small piece of fuel line still connected to it so I dribbled some fuel into the line and pulled over the machine, out spurt the fuel with no signs of leakage.

I ran a new line from the pump to the carb, and ran the remaining 3’ to the inlet of the pump. Filled the line with fuel, tried to start it 10-15 times with no luck. Checked the lines, both full, noticed some fuel had dribbled down onto the exhaust. Dribbled more fuel into the cylinders, pulled the cord, fired right away. Sputtered for a second, wanted to die, wouldn’t idle, but ran with light throttle until all the fuel in the lines was gone.

Up until this point the track was suspended. When the machine was running, the track turned effortlessly, with no sounds that I would describe as odd (no grinding or knocking). Once I was convinced it would run, even if only for a moment, I decided to set the track down and have it move under its own power. When I gave the machine fuel, you could see the primary clutch come together on the belt, but the secondary wouldn’t turn.

Any ideas? Any direction?

Thanks everyone!
 

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Great! I guess if i were you, i would hook up to the fuel tank and get it running longer. You have to realize, a machine on dry ground takes more power to get it moving.
 

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When you cleaned the carb did you get the pilot jet the one up the small tube. That one has the most effect on idle. Usually the first step on going from dry or out of gas is blow into the vent line with the opening covered. Can watch everything fill up including the bowls If it dosnt go in 2-3 pulls something else is a miss. If you got gas coming out the exhaust pump is bad, needle and seat or stuck float. Or just had too much when you poured in spark plug hole. Confirm that the choke isnt stuck in the open or closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey everyone, sorry for the delayed responses!

Great! I guess if i were you, i would hook up to the fuel tank and get it running longer. You have to realize, a machine on dry ground takes more power to get it moving.
Hooking a fuel tank up for longer run times is the next step. When the hoses were strength tested, they broke the tank outlet, so I'm gonna have to fashion up something for the time being. Here's to hoping that i'm just being too gentle on the throttle :LOL:

When you cleaned the carb did you get the pilot jet the one up the small tube. That one has the most effect on idle. Usually the first step on going from dry or out of gas is blow into the vent line with the opening covered. Can watch everything fill up including the bowls If it dosnt go in 2-3 pulls something else is a miss. If you got gas coming out the exhaust pump is bad, needle and seat or stuck float. Or just had too much when you poured in spark plug hole. Confirm that the choke isnt stuck in the open or closed.
I cleaned the carb as per this link, with the exception that I removed the pilot because I couldn't seem to navigate the tip cleaner through it, but it was clear.

Mikuni round slide carb cleaning

I actually don't have any vent lines lol They especially were brittle and didn't endure. I have to run all new fuel/oil/primer/vent lines. As for the choke, the lever broke off so, how might I check if it stuck open of closed? When I disassembled the carb, it looked fine visually. I don't doubt that I put too much fuel into the plug holes, what is a good volume would you say?
 

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Good news!

I decided to see if I could install some primer lines as they were broken. I installed them with a bit of difficulty and a few choose words. I had to install a makeshift gas tank as the outlet was broken. Once I had everything done, I primed the lines, dropped a pickup line into my "gas tank", pulled the primer a few times and it started right up. At this point the machine is still suspended, and it works marvellously: track spins freely, no weird clunks or bangs. I ran the machine like this for some 10 minutes feathering the throttle. After I let the machine warm up I set it down and away she went!!!

I made about 20 laps around the yard before I ended up having to get off the machine and turn it manually, when I got back on, the throttle response was sluggish and the track wouldn't spin. I feathered the throttle lightly until it picked up again and the track turned again.

All in all, today is a success!!
 

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I actually don't have any vent lines lol They especially were brittle and didn't endure. I have to run all new fuel/oil/primer/vent lines. As for the choke, the lever broke off so, how might I check if it stuck open of closed? When I disassembled the carb, it looked fine visually. I don't doubt that I put too much fuel into the plug holes, what is a good volume would you say?
[/QUOTE

Would be hard to check the choke with lever broke off. Theres a kit you can just replace that lever its cheap. Usually that lever will break if the choke is froze up seized or froze up ice. If its down and you have a primer no problem at all starting or running. If unseated will be doggy running once warmed up. You can go down this hole with a small drill bit blunt end or wire and touch the choke plunger. Can feel if its moving if you had a lever on the cable.

No set amount on volume of gas just some like couple ounces. If you put more than that one of the pistons will have the exhaust port open and will go into the exhaust. Not a big deal as long as its not a lot more than a few ounces
 

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Once all your problems are corrected you will have a fine sled that will go about anywhere. I would not let my 88 Super jag leave my possession as I love it for all my off trail riding. It always amazes the people as it always starts one pull and idles smoothly. Very light weight if you ever get stuck in the deep stuff and reverse works well. Have fun with yours!
 

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Once all your problems are corrected you will have a fine sled that will go about anywhere. I would not let my 88 Super jag leave my possession as I love it for all my off trail riding. It always amazes the people as it always starts one pull and idles smoothly. Very light weight if you ever get stuck in the deep stuff and reverse works well. Have fun with yours!
Mine actually doesn't have reverse, I guess they didn't have them on the first run. I was considering looking for a kit, but you're right when you say how light they are lol

I was looking forward to getting it simply to drag the kids around. I can fit just about everyone on it and could still tow a sled behind lol I'm not looking forward to replacing the track when the time comes :ROFLMAO:
 
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