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Discussion Starter #1
I recently picked up a 1979 jag and a 1977 jag. $300 for the pair both run and are in good overall shape. However the 79 hex clutch is shot and I would prefer to upgrade it to a more reliable clutch. I have a 108c sitting in my attic off a early 90s prowler I think... will that fit and work? I have seen a bunch of threads on various forums talking about the 102c but I don't have one of those laying around.

I do have a several new style cat clutches from the mid 90s zrt's will any of those work?

I just want to get away from the HEX clutch and move to something a little more recent that still has parts available.

Also the secondary. What options do I have there?

I have complete drive trains from a bunch of mid 90s cats. Chain cases, jack shafts clutches etc....Was thinking about doing a complete chain case swap so I can add hydraulic brakes.
 

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I forgot to address your secondaries. You can convert your driven clutches to Arctic reverse cam driven clutches. I converted my '78 el tigre.
 

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Find yourself a good used Reverse Cam secondary.. There are a lot out of them there. You will need a space that goes behind the the clutch on the shaft, some washer shims, and an aluminum spacer that goes inside the clutch shaft on the end where the bolt is. 15, 12, 36, 39, 45, 40, 13, and of coarse 14 the clutch.
365073
 

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Most times a person selling the clutch will have the aluminum spacer ( 12) with the clutch. The spacer, (15), you can make yourself out of pipe that fits over the jackshaft if you can't find one. It's sounds difficult but really isn't. You will need to set your offset to 1.365". There is a metal bar made with the offset pre set. These clutches are still preferred by vintage racers and parts are still available. I still race mine.
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One other thing worth mentioning, The 94c will probably come calibrated for an 1 1/4" belt. Most reverse cam clutches are calibrated for 1 3/8" belt. Not to fret. You can either go with either size belt, but the 94c will need shim to 1 3/8" or you will need to take shim out of the secondary clutch for 1 1/4" belt. I also have a belt conversion chart when you get to that point. Sounds like a lot of messing around, but when you get done and the belt is set correctly, you will have a lot of tuning capabilities, and a reliable set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK so the clutches came today and they are 102C off some john deere machines. They guy I bought them from had them listed wrong.

These are what i received. Charts say they fit. So now I need secondaries to match these. What secondaries do you recommend? What year machine did you get yours from?
 

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The 102c is a great clutch also. You will need to calibrate it with a spring and weights. As for secondaries, I would still go with the reverse cam as i stated up above. Did you get the 102c for the duster price? If you did, great job!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes i paid duster price for them. His listing mistake i guess. About the secondary, I was asking what machine you got yours from? Im not sure which secondarys wil fit from what machines. The more research I do the more my head hurts. Does the size of the driven clutch matter? Ive had several people say it has to match the size of the one that came stock. Then someone else threw in if the clutch has overdrive you cant use certain ones. I know the 102c is a good fit for the engine. I have K1 59.7 weights (209011) and the black spring (204115) sitting on my bench. These were the recommended parts for the 340 F/A from comet.

SO anywho...lol.... I'm looking for specifric driven clutches that will work so I can start to track them down if I dont have any that will work.

Thanks for all your help so far!

Mike
 

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The K1 and black spring will work for a start, but i would personally drop about 6 grams on the weights for a 340. As for the secondary, the reverse cam clutch was introduced after the driven clutch used on your machine. They are the only clutch to use for the driven. It doesn't matter what year to get because you will change the spring and helix anyway. Probably use a yellow spring, and then get a 45 degree helix. A used reverse cam used will probably come with a 53 degree helix which would be too steep for a 340. If you have mid 90's driven clutches laying around they are the reverse cam driven clutch. they were used up until 2004 i believe. Then they changed in 2005. So they were used approximately from 1981 to 2004.
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Discussion Starter #14
Sweet! That is all good news! I have about a dozen of those driven clutches. The stock cam arms that came with the clutches are 52.7 grams. I guess I will leave those in then and return the K1's. The recommended spring for the A13 is a red spring though. I hate doing clutching. This is why I pay my local clutch guru for this stuff on my new machines. Time to go check some helix angles... You have been so helpful!!!
 

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Clutching really isn't bad to do as long as you have a basic concept on how they work. Example; a 53 degree helix will open the secondary faster than a 45 degree helix. Then you also have 5 holes on the cover, you can adjust side pressure on the belt. What was on your Jag was a 30 degree helix you could not change out. On the primary, lighter weights will raise your engagement RPM as will a stiffer spring.
 
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