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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys just bought a 17 XF 9000 Turbo 137" track. Sled is completely stock with a 1.75" track no studs. sled is my first 4 stroke ive ever sat on. PULLS Like no other this thing is a beast. No shortage of power but it lacks out of the Hole I feel. does not lift skis upon launch but will eventually about 50' after the initial launch. im not looking for this thing to stand up on end everytime I'm WOT, but asking is there any little quirks to help set this thing up for the best straight line race up to 1000 foot?
completely stock sled so far planned on doing aftermarket can with 270hp reflash and clutch kit from Turbo dynamics or hurricane, but for now just some simple suspension settings you guys have tried on these would save me the hassle of testing.
 

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You want it to really hook and book.... let your limited straps out all the way and remove your coupler blocks. I run my sled this way all year (not just for drag racing). 2018 cross country turbo. 1.75 track. Fully studded. TD trail/race bundle , clutching , exhaust, blow off valve , intake. Puts a grin on my face every time I slap the love flipper.


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Discussion Starter #3
thanks bud, I will definitely try this. and post my results when I get out there!
 

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I removed the coupler blocks and have the limiter straps on the last hole (loose) tried over the last couple weekends. WOW she hooks now and doesn't stand up on end but really hooks harder and much better initial launch thanks MR. Mayem. now I need a reflash n clutch kit lol
 

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How much do you weigh? The big boys need a secondary spring that starts out stiffer. Goes for all sleds. You should be at 180 horses worth of RPM by the time you pass like 10mph. if the spring starts out too soft it starts shifting (gearing up) instead if the rider weighs too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
im 300# without my boot lol yes definitely getting a clutch kit for it was thinking the Dalton adjustable's? not sure need to research them more. what color secondary spring?
 

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I’m running the TD trail/race bundle ... only clutching I have is the dalton adjustable weights. I just changed my gearing this year stock CC was 22/48 I’m now running 22/41 the team clutches have NO problem pulling this taller gearing... I weigh 250 without my gear on. I did a 90 mile solo ride last Friday .. 50 miles with the wife and some friends Saturday and just did another 111 miles solo today... I cannot get this thing to eat a belt. Lol. I love it ... if I would have rode my 1100t the way I ride this 998... I’d have went through 3 belts this past weekend.


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Discussion Starter #8
that 22/41 help your top end out a lot? Ive only had this thing up to 105 but I ran outta real estate. we haven't had enough snow to get to a place to open er up yet to see the top end on it waiting on this dam snow here in SE MN. so I can get some riding in I got like 75 miles on this thing up an down fields over here no trail time what so ever. I put this belt on new 75 miles ago and ive been zero to WOT for about a 1/4 mile length field over an over an my belt still looks good we'll see if she last. my 09 Crossfire ate belts about every 200 miles had it aligned n engine brace added still just my riding they said at CAT but rode my back country last year same way with 1600 miles on that belt but ski doo backcountry 800 ha (NO BALLS) lol
 

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Always dalton weights, yes. But you still need to find a secondary spring. As long as you have the tool to disassemble the secondary (and a hand-held gas torch and loctite) then you should just get a selection of secondary springs (the first number is the thing you want higher so you just check what you have on now by googling the xxxx-yyy number on the spring. Since you weigh 300 then you might have to go a bit higher on the second number as well simply so you don't have belt slip at top speed on your secondary). You should also make sure you have both clutches shimmed correctly on a brand new belt so you don't confuse yourself when you set up the clutching because its all wrong again when you put on another belt.

@MRMAYHEM Making the gearing that much taller without having a different secondary spring? How is your RPM progression as you go from 5mph to 100mph? Ideally your secondary doesn't start shifting at all (meaning the belt is still in the edges of the secondary) until you hit peak power RPM, and then ideally you stay on that one RPM until you're at top speed.
Also, how warm is your belt, and each clutch, after a few full-throttle pulls from a standstill? If they're lukewarm you aren't putting power to the ground and that would be why you'd never blow a belt.

PS: To both of you, if you're eating belts your clutching is wrong. And no stock clutching is right (unless you're mister average 165lbs guy who never really holds it WOT more than a second and couldn't afford proper insurance so he's afraid of bending it).
 

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Best I could get out of my stock gearing was 112mph on the lake (running max spool 17 map). ... I haven’t made a full throttle pass on the lake with the new gearing but I’ll tell you this.... Friday I hit 118 on the trail (running the power trail map). Lol. I ran all the numbers through the gearing calculator ... with my RPM , and track pitch it said my stock gearing was good for 112 (which I was) and new gearing is 132. I’m not sure I wanna spin that 1.75 back country (studded) that fast though? Lol. We’ll see.


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PS: olav aaen's clutch tuning handbook. Get it. Latest version you can find. And now a days its helpful to have a helmet cam, then you can mount it on your handlebar to record your RPMs through the pulls.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Ronny Hugo. I will definitely look into that clutching. Yes I do have a torch will probably make my own clutch compression tool. Looks simple enough to make n I got a bunch of steel n time.
 
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