16 xf 7000 team clutch noise
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The spider can be reshimmed for the rollers to sit on or closer to the weights. I have been told this makes take off harsher. Run the Pantera primary spring it lowers engagement.
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129 Posts
This is the spring I'm running with my ssi clutch kit.
AC black/white 0646-439 spring listed with a 50/250 rate.
You should be able to run it with stock clutching.
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AC black/white 0646-439 spring listed with a 50/250 rate.
You should be able to run it with stock clutching.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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188 Posts
My 7000 with Arctic clutch when cold at idle sounds like it will implode as well. Was thinking about buying replacement sheave and cover bushings from Fett or Thunder Products, get my dealer to replace those and shim the spider to remove some of the tolerance.
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Problem isn't weights or the clutch itself. That tapered end of the crank, is a completely separate part of the rest of the crank (it fits on splined end of cranks "main body"), and will develope excessive slack between the pto ends internal splines, and the main cranks external splines.
Sounds like an electric Impact wrench going at about 1/2 speed while impacting. (Like a V-8 engine with 2-3 rods ready to ventilate its oil pan at any second)
With engine shut off, make a mark on engines case (and on clutches sheave) that align, next, rotate the clutch forwards and backwards (without trying to humanly "start unit up")
Note the amount of movement of the clutches inner sheave, that is slack making all your noise.
Sh/tty design by Yamaha engineering. Even worse decision by Cat to even think of using this design, knowing customers are going to be very upset with it when it finally surfaces. Usually takes minimum of 800-1500 miles to begin rearing its ugly head.
Go look up engine on a site with micro-fiche, see crankshaft diagram. You'll see pto stub separate with a retaining plate and two (2) main bearings to support it. Again, p/ss poor engineering.
Sounds like an electric Impact wrench going at about 1/2 speed while impacting. (Like a V-8 engine with 2-3 rods ready to ventilate its oil pan at any second)
With engine shut off, make a mark on engines case (and on clutches sheave) that align, next, rotate the clutch forwards and backwards (without trying to humanly "start unit up")
Note the amount of movement of the clutches inner sheave, that is slack making all your noise.
Sh/tty design by Yamaha engineering. Even worse decision by Cat to even think of using this design, knowing customers are going to be very upset with it when it finally surfaces. Usually takes minimum of 800-1500 miles to begin rearing its ugly head.
Go look up engine on a site with micro-fiche, see crankshaft diagram. You'll see pto stub separate with a retaining plate and two (2) main bearings to support it. Again, p/ss poor engineering.
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Part reference #13 in the pic, and in the price list/description.
I haven't yet seen one of these with either primary (fixed pins, or TEAM) that has been anything to do with the weights being too lose.
It has consistently been the pto output shaft and the related splines making all the noise.
I haven't yet seen one of these with either primary (fixed pins, or TEAM) that has been anything to do with the weights being too lose.
It has consistently been the pto output shaft and the related splines making all the noise.
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Agreed. Why the design change? The old "press the clutch onto the shaft" ZRT's worked just fine. What genius decided to change it? And to what benefit?
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The clutch itself still does have a press fit. It is Yamahas "genius" idea to "adapt" a crank already used in a couple other applications (street bike I believe?), something I'm not surprised by.
They had issues years ago with their press together "inner webs" (of a cranks center main bearing region) in all of their 540cc Vmax lineup. The 6 male/6 female splines would lose their ability to stay tight over time. It allowed for some cranks to become "out of phase" and wreak havoc on a lot of those engines, also allowing mains to spin their inner races, ending a cranks reliable lifespan.
They had issues years ago with their press together "inner webs" (of a cranks center main bearing region) in all of their 540cc Vmax lineup. The 6 male/6 female splines would lose their ability to stay tight over time. It allowed for some cranks to become "out of phase" and wreak havoc on a lot of those engines, also allowing mains to spin their inner races, ending a cranks reliable lifespan.
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And as to why they'd do this, based on my 25+ yrs of selling OEM yamaha parts, I've watched them play a "long term" game of "fish" with their customers.
They'd allow a production run of very common replacement parts (that nothing aftermarket was available to replace), and then return with a superseded part a year or two later, only to jack the living :turd: out of its MSRP!
They like to draw the last $$ out of every item they possibly can. I recall Virago choke plunger assemblies costing well in excess of $85! When a competitors part that was comparable was priced around $25-$40 range instead. Virago choke assemblies (because of the way they fit their Hitachi carbs, and how the "lifter fork" in the linkage mechanism placed a load on them when closed), would only be good for maybe 1-2 seasons before they'd lose about 40% of the "raised sealing rings" at plungers tips, thus allowing excessive fuel to load up plugs and run very poorly.
Basically, they sat "****-eyed" (loading the rings unevenly, compressing the 40% portion flat), and then vibrations wouldn't allow them to seal correctly.
And don't even get me started on their XV750/920 starter motor designs/problems!! Pure junk!
The above is only 1 example of what I feel was their tactics to capatalize on the American consumers loyalty to them.
I could write a novel about some of the f'd up designs I've seen from this company in the past 35 years.
They'd allow a production run of very common replacement parts (that nothing aftermarket was available to replace), and then return with a superseded part a year or two later, only to jack the living :turd: out of its MSRP!
They like to draw the last $$ out of every item they possibly can. I recall Virago choke plunger assemblies costing well in excess of $85! When a competitors part that was comparable was priced around $25-$40 range instead. Virago choke assemblies (because of the way they fit their Hitachi carbs, and how the "lifter fork" in the linkage mechanism placed a load on them when closed), would only be good for maybe 1-2 seasons before they'd lose about 40% of the "raised sealing rings" at plungers tips, thus allowing excessive fuel to load up plugs and run very poorly.
Basically, they sat "****-eyed" (loading the rings unevenly, compressing the 40% portion flat), and then vibrations wouldn't allow them to seal correctly.
And don't even get me started on their XV750/920 starter motor designs/problems!! Pure junk!
The above is only 1 example of what I feel was their tactics to capatalize on the American consumers loyalty to them.
I could write a novel about some of the f'd up designs I've seen from this company in the past 35 years.
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8,799 Posts
Because it is a Yamaha motor cycle engine. The clutch is pressed on but there is a splined adaptor hooked to the tapered shaft for the clutch. I hope textron tells Yamaha to go away on that sled. It is a pos imo.
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188 Posts
Did not realize this motor had a splined output shaft. I checked the fiche and the 998 Turbo motor has the same splined output shaft design as well. Almost makes me want to trade-in my 7000 on a new 8000.
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12,504 Posts
Yep, I'm pretty sure it's related to the YXZ side x side.
thanks for info , I do have movement when turning clutch by hand at first I was thinking it was t chain slop , but after reading this it has to be splines worn , I do have warranty on sled do you think its a warranty item , thanks :sad
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We haven't warrantied one yet. It's a real shame that the primary bolt only threads into the tapered stub instead of the crank itself. That would more than likely keep this from happening.
I'll have to have our SM check into a warranty process and see what yamahahahaha has to say about it. (Don't hold your breath)
I'll have to have our SM check into a warranty process and see what yamahahahaha has to say about it. (Don't hold your breath)
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The one we put on dvw 15000 mile 7000 did little to nothing for noise improvement. You will love this sled when you have to pull the motor to adjust the valves.
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34 Posts
So my xf7000 has always sounded loud when its running. is it normal? Ive rode it with no issues. is there something i should do with it?
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“IF” it has a combination of a “clattering” at idle (like the mixing ball inside 2 paint cans being shaken vigorously at the same time), and “kind of SMOOTHES OUT” (clattering gets so quick at lower speeds, before applying full throttle under load), then this is classic sounds of this issue.
They’ll run fine, just low speed riding (and idling) will sound like :turd:!!
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Hello, I registred myself only to respond to this post. I have been working 3 winters to test and improve the clutch to get rid of the rattle coming out the primary clutch. I even "glued" with special aviation silicone the splines between the crank shaft and the taper shaft witch holds the clutch and NOTHING, rattle was always there. Spring, ramps, shims, etc...
This year I replaced the primary with the Power Block 80 from CV Tech #1100-0332 and added all the extra weights supplied with it.
PROBLEM SOLVED! !!! I now have the most wonderfull machine I ever dreamed in my hand!
Do that for your passion, you will not regret it, it is even more powerfull, the 7000 should come equipped with the Power Block.
By the way, I really think crank shaft and taper saft are two different parts so the crank can be lighter that way because it doesn't have to resist the flexion load cause by the primary, only torsion to make the sled foward. I lighter crank means less restriction to acceletation.
This year I replaced the primary with the Power Block 80 from CV Tech #1100-0332 and added all the extra weights supplied with it.
PROBLEM SOLVED! !!! I now have the most wonderfull machine I ever dreamed in my hand!
Do that for your passion, you will not regret it, it is even more powerfull, the 7000 should come equipped with the Power Block.
By the way, I really think crank shaft and taper saft are two different parts so the crank can be lighter that way because it doesn't have to resist the flexion load cause by the primary, only torsion to make the sled foward. I lighter crank means less restriction to acceletation.
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188 Posts
That is interesting, I heard of those PB clutches but thought they were for older machines. Did you have to purchase extra weights or what came with the PB clutch was sufficient? There is no more clanking at idle? Did you lose any top end or low-to-mid torque? Any changes in fuel mileage?
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I installed it as it was in the box. The result was great , no noise (clac clac clac....) at any rpm. The engagement is smooth and precise, you can foward by 1 inch if you want. If the snowmobile would have had this sound when new we would have never tough about noise problems and we would have been really happy with it.
The acceleration as improve, I hit 60 mi/h just for fun ..( pantera 7000 xt) is a big machine with à XF you will ... Fly maybee. I dont know about the top speed.
I add the extra weights to lower the rpm, I was at 7000 at 70 km/h now Im at 6000.
600 miles with it yet and just fun. It is the same clutch they use in the 1200 ski doo brp aftermarket.
You can go on yutube and check for:
Power Block 80.
A lot of People rely on this here and they are extremely reliable. Polaris put them stock in a lot of models.
The compagny that makes it (CV Tech) dont list the 7000 arctic cat engine, I spoke with a tech over there and he suggested me the number i putted in my last post, I gave it a try and I am astoniched happy finally no more clac clac clac at idle or buzzzz at 25 km/h.
Excuse my english I'm french guy.
The acceleration as improve, I hit 60 mi/h just for fun ..( pantera 7000 xt) is a big machine with à XF you will ... Fly maybee. I dont know about the top speed.
I add the extra weights to lower the rpm, I was at 7000 at 70 km/h now Im at 6000.
600 miles with it yet and just fun. It is the same clutch they use in the 1200 ski doo brp aftermarket.
You can go on yutube and check for:
Power Block 80.
A lot of People rely on this here and they are extremely reliable. Polaris put them stock in a lot of models.
The compagny that makes it (CV Tech) dont list the 7000 arctic cat engine, I spoke with a tech over there and he suggested me the number i putted in my last post, I gave it a try and I am astoniched happy finally no more clac clac clac at idle or buzzzz at 25 km/h.
Excuse my english I'm french guy.
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