I have a'13 F800 with 1200 miles on. The driven clutch blew apart. Took it to the dealer in Munising and he put a new one on under warranty. He said it's the third one he's seen. Anyone else have the same problem? Is there a fix from AC?
13 F800 Driven Clutch Blew Apart
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Joined
·
248 Posts
There is some kind of update out.
New bushing and stronger bolts for the helix.
same problem. I posted in the thread I started. seems like the dealers don't all know about this, nevermind what the fix is. I ride with a couple guys with 2013 f800 and don't want to have to tow them over something that could have been fixed ahead of time. Is there an official bulletin or recall?
Joined
·
1,756 Posts
Yes there is.. Cat just replaced my secondary with a new one and the upgrade kit installed.. However; I don't like the plastic bushing they put in it. It will stop the secondary from shifting all the way out now.. That's not a fix it's a band-aid! The proper thing to do from my reaserch is to remove the bushing and buy an aftermarket helix or machine down the bushing for full shift
After doing some more research, I found on this forum there is a service bulletin out BS201315. It consists of a white plastic sleeve and helix bolts.
I have a picture attached of what I think is the white plastic sleeve. Is this it? If so, the clutch the dealer put on must have been updated. This dealer didn't know about it for sure.
If this is the sleeve, will I lose top end speed? I never really opened it up all the way after he put this clutch on.
I have a picture attached of what I think is the white plastic sleeve. Is this it? If so, the clutch the dealer put on must have been updated. This dealer didn't know about it for sure.
If this is the sleeve, will I lose top end speed? I never really opened it up all the way after he put this clutch on.
Attachments
Joined
·
248 Posts
You will loose some top end. Take the bushing out and trim about 1/4" off of it, or leave it out compleately
Joined
·
1,080 Posts
Kitty that's the spacer and from what I can tell you will lose top end. I took my secondary apart and the edges of the spacer were starting to mushroom out b/c there was so much pressure on it. I've taken about .200" off of mine to allow the secondary to fully open but haven't had any snow to try it out yet.
BL, will shaving down the spacer affect warranty? I've thought about buying a new spacer to have so I can throw it in there incase something happens with my secondary. They could probably tell if it has been shifting past the spacer from the wear on the ramps of the helix, but IMO taking away the top end is not a fix and I shouldn't be expected to accept it like that.
BL, will shaving down the spacer affect warranty? I've thought about buying a new spacer to have so I can throw it in there incase something happens with my secondary. They could probably tell if it has been shifting past the spacer from the wear on the ramps of the helix, but IMO taking away the top end is not a fix and I shouldn't be expected to accept it like that.
Joined
·
170 Posts
Take the spacer out, put in on your work bench. That is one of the dumbest things to come out of TRF in a long time. You can't "limit" clutch shift out by stopping the secondary. the primary will keep pulling putting more stress on the bearings, jackshaft, TCL, ect. The guy that came up with that "update" should be fired.
Joined
·
1,756 Posts
I agree with you JC... But without the spacer doesn't the secondary shift out to much?? From what I understand the inner cogs of the belt were catching the helix and snapping the helix bolts... I shaved my spacer 4mm, just to say my rollers are about 0.010 from sitting into the full shift position of my helix.
Joined
·
1,080 Posts
I too heard that the secondary is shifting out too far and the belt is being sucked down into the helix and breaking the bolts. Others have said the 800 doesn't have enough balls to pull the belt down that far, but I figured shortening the spacer would give me more shift out while still limiting it just a little, just incase the motor is feeling frisky. lol I put the belt into the secondary while it was off the machine at full shift with the shortened spacer and it looks like the belt is almost to the bottom. I figure with the added tension on the belt in the machine it should be darn close to full shift or atleast a lot better then it was before.
Anyone know if this was a problem with 2012 models? When I was researching before I purchased, I don't recall this being a problem with the 2012's. I wonder what changed between the '12 and '13 for this to be a problem now?
I guess I'm going to look for an aftermarket Driven Clutch.
Anyone have suggestions for an aftermarket clutch????
I guess I'm going to look for an aftermarket Driven Clutch.
Anyone have suggestions for an aftermarket clutch????
Joined
·
1,080 Posts
I believe the 2012s got the update kit just like the early build 2013s. The later build 13s came with the spacer and the tougher bolts so no update for them. I've read about guys having problems with the torsional setups when using reverse, but I'm not sure if it is true or not. I did read one company say that theirs is the only torsional setup that works properly with engine reverse, so maybe there is some truth to it. I dunno Of course you could also go with a better compression set up. I'm sure just about anything out there would be better than the one Cat put on here. :lol:
Joined
·
248 Posts
If you can get through the season, I'd wait to see what they're gonna use with this new Yamaha deal. Might be better clutches, thicker jackshaft, and will be reasonable prices.
just sayin'
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!