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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Yes the battery is 14ABS. I don't know if I know the offical way to load test it but while cranking the motor for a 10-20 second time period it never fell under 11.3 and went back up to 12.4 after I stopped. I don't believe I have another good battery rated any higher here that is good. The tilt sensor should be here Friday or Saturday morning. If that doesn't fix the problem then I may try a new battery.
 

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Jumper cables to a truck or car will tell you if the battery is up to par. Just dont have the vehicle running or it will cause trouble. Lots of trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Heres the update.

I worked off this morning and my invert sensor came in so after getting some sleep I started in on it again with a buddy. Changed the invert sensor and of course nothing changed. We pulled the front fender and air box to get to the throttle body. We pull the injector and when we are turning it over it is spraying gas. We take all the old gas out of the tank and put all fresh but nothing changes. While turning the bike over the injector is spraying but at about half throttle or more during cranking it stops spraying gas. This may be normal I don't know but I thought I would include it. But when we started it with starting fluid it would spray gas fine at half to full throttle. I was guessing that maybe it has a sensor to cut gas off during cranking at half or more throttle so as not to let it get too much fuel to flood out?????? If you place your hand over the throttle body like you're choking it it will hit just a second once you pull your hand. I also replaced the positive battery cable because the end of it was messed up. I guess I'm going to buy a new battery tomorrow and hope that is the problem.

I have few more questions.

How do I test the pressure for the fuel pump?
If the injector is spraying gas does that mean everything should be good as far as fuel pump? Is there something that could be restricting the gas after the injectors are spraying it in the throttle body?

I just don't understand how I have great compression, good spark, and my injector shooting gas and it still not run.

Once again thanks for all the help

Any recommendation on a good battery and where to get it for a decent price?
 

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To bad the tilt sensor didn't fix anything. The walmart AGM battery is pretty decent and a good value. Any AGM is better than oem. The ebay motobatts and pc680 are well liked by owners. The cost $40-50 more I think.

The one I run is in my sig. it's got the + and - and opposite ends to the OEM one so it's a little harder to hook up. I had enough cable to do it. Measure your battery box to make sure it fits. I think some of the quads came with a slightly small box and it may not fit. Then you must go with the smaller one.
 

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I just had a problem where my 550 would flash EFI and it was the wires running to the CDI. Like 2-3" away from the plug they were rubbed on the frame. I now have them ran under the frame rail intend of on top. So I would give those wires a look. Also back where the wires to the fuse box goes over the frame. There is a notch in the plastic. I had rubbing there, and lastly I had rubbing in the wire that goes down by your left foot. It's for the speedometer but it ran on the motor under the exhaust so it got melted. I now have it running behind the motor.
Just a few tips on places to look. I dot even have mine back together yet and that's all that I've found.
Electrical sucks so good luck
 

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fuel related

I am having the same problem kind of. im getting fire, fuel through the line to throttle body at 43 psi and getting a efi flash on console. I ran it all weekend and I tried to start it sunday night I got nothing. Help?
 

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I am having the same problem kind of. im getting fire, fuel through the line to throttle body at 43 psi and getting a efi flash on console. I ran it all weekend and I tried to start it sunday night I got nothing. Help?
Good luck!
I've had the same problem sense I bought mine new. Dealers told me there was nothing wrong but it's getting worse. :Bangin:
Probably going to have to tear it apart and go through everything.
 

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Heres the update.

I worked off this morning and my invert sensor came in so after getting some sleep I started in on it again with a buddy. Changed the invert sensor and of course nothing changed. We pulled the front fender and air box to get to the throttle body. We pull the injector and when we are turning it over it is spraying gas. We take all the old gas out of the tank and put all fresh but nothing changes. While turning the bike over the injector is spraying but at about half throttle or more during cranking it stops spraying gas. This may be normal I don't know but I thought I would include it. But when we started it with starting fluid it would spray gas fine at half to full throttle. I was guessing that maybe it has a sensor to cut gas off during cranking at half or more throttle so as not to let it get too much fuel to flood out?????? If you place your hand over the throttle body like you're choking it it will hit just a second once you pull your hand. I also replaced the positive battery cable because the end of it was messed up. I guess I'm going to buy a new battery tomorrow and hope that is the problem.

I have few more questions.

How do I test the pressure for the fuel pump?
If the injector is spraying gas does that mean everything should be good as far as fuel pump? Is there something that could be restricting the gas after the injectors are spraying it in the throttle body?

I just don't understand how I have great compression, good spark, and my injector shooting gas and it still not run.

Once again thanks for all the help

Any recommendation on a good battery and where to get it for a decent price?


Did you ever fix this machine??
 

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Put in a new battery.
You guys know this is an ancient thread right?
 

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Yeah I know its from 2010...my buddy has an 08 and he has tried battery after battery as it continually drained to the point now he runs a master switch. It will crank and sputter forever before it starts. He is going to bring it over and I am going to start at the bottom with fuel press, compression, I personnally think its in the sensor side of things. I had a 05 KQ 700 and it too was difficult starting..all above was good. I had 10000 km on it when I sold it, bought from new. I find so many threads on this problem but none really with solved .
Thanks for your reply
 

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You have to keep them on a battery tender.
TPS should be right in the middle. Reset ISC
Check the connection at the spark plug boot.
 

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Since this thread has been restarted, is there a way to check the tilt sensor? Mine does this intermittently.
Mine has a new battery, new fuel pump & screen, new rectifier, new stator, new plug. I have fuel pressure and 12+ volts. yesterday it threw a tilt sensor code for the first time.
 

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Good afternoon friends of the forum, my English is not very good but I will try to explain my case, firstly my name is Cristan and I am writing to you from Panama, I am very fond of arctic cats and I have a 2007 arctic cat 700 4x4 with a suzuki engine, the problem is the following I made the diagnostic tip and I got the code EC40 it refers to the valve iac I proceeded to buy the valve and install it new bought in partzilla, I deleted the fault code and I threw EC00 but when I turn on the atv after 2 minutes it comes back and EFI appears on the screen and if I put the bridge on it it keeps marking EC40 code, I do not think the new valve is bad, my tps is in the center configured, clean inject, it could be that something else This causing that code you who have experience in this, the truth I need your help thank you very much in advance.
 

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Check for bad wires in your harness.
 

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Good afternoon doorfx friend, thank you for your prompt response, today I was able to check all the wiring and I did not find any cut cables or anything like that but I could see a changed connector, as if they had taken a bad signal and placed a direct cable to the regulator I do not know what you call it voltage, I could still take some photos so that you can see what I am talking about, today I noticed something different, clean all the contacts of the sensors and charge the battery to 100%, it is already a battery, it is about 4 years old. Deka brand, she starts it well but I am noticing that it is not constant in its voltage and I could see in another part of the forum that a bad battery can give false positives because today being 100% charged it does not send EFI for about 15 minutes later if I mark it, so I may be failing the battery that you think.


367840
367841
367842
 

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Yes start with the battery, take it to a parts store they will load test it for free. You need to keep these machines on a battery tender.
If you have a multi-meter , check the voltage at the battery when it’s running.
Clean all those contacts with an emery board or small sandpaper glued to a small piece of wood like a popsicle stick. If you have a rotary tool even better
 

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Good morning friends, how are you, today I bought the new battery as Mr. Doorfx recommended to me, since mine I could tell that it was from 2017 it was engraved or burned in the plastic so it needed to be replaced in any way, I assemble it and continue with it Same EFI fault blinking on the screen and when I extract the fault code I keep getting EC 40 which is the damn iac valve, I proceed to erase the code by opening the clutch to the top with the bridge connected and I open the start key, and EC00 comes out When I disconnect the bridge and try to start it starts without failures after about 2 minutes it returns to the EFI screen, and the damn code EC 40 will be that the valve I bought is defective or what happens I have no cables cut how can I test that valve otherwise to see if it really works I need your help please and thank you.
 

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Does it look like these?
 

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Do you have a service manual?
 

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367897

Good afternoon, Doorfx friend, my valve is not the same as those that you show me in the photos, remember that my arctic cat is a 700 from 2007 with a suzuki king quad 700 engine, I am attaching a photo of the one that uses my engine and I take the opportunity to ask you If there is a way to test it or verify the connectors or values that come from the ECU to the valve to see if it is sending the correct data or not. Greetings
 

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