Arctic Cat Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a 06 650 H1 , it has around 800 Miles on it and is all stock except for a slip on muffler. I only use this quad to work around the house, Plow, Winch stuff out drag trees,haul Dirt/Rocks Basic Farm stuff. I trail ride a little with it but not much. Yesterday I took it on a few mile ride to winch my buddies Gator out and I could only get about 42 MPH out of it, I was not hitting the Limiter.


I Change the oil 2 times a year with Amsoil 0W-40, Clean air filter and change plug, Change Gear oil every couple Years with Amsoil Severe Gear and I changed the U Joints along with all the CV boots and all the Shock and A Arm bushings from a Guy that makes them from this board.


I have never touched the Clutches So i am thinking of pulling them apart and at least cleaning them ( I do My sled clutches a few times a season Not sure why i have never touched these ).

Any Tips on taking them apart?

Anything I should look for?
Anything I should change? Rollers? Belt? Spring?
Should I run stock or order something else for my kind of riding?
Stock appears to be a lot cheaper price wise and Honestly I am not sure if I really need anything else, I just want them to work correctly and would like a little more top speed.
Do I need to set clutch alignment and Belt deflection? If so how. Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
Watch the youtube video on how to pull the clutches, much faster then directions.

You should be faster a lot faster. I personally wouldn't change the clutch set up for your riding. Unless you got/get bigger tires.


You shouldn't need a belt at 800 miles, but... pull the clutches and have a look might be obvious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
What is the Belt life on these? Should I change it because of years? I will pull it and look for obvious damage. I am used to Sleds and replacing a couple belts a Season.


From what I read I was told they are SAE 1-1/4 and 1-7/16 so I do have those. What is the normal belt life on these? Rollers? Springs? and what should I do to the the one way bearing? Clean and Lube? Replace? I do hope the Plastics come off okay, Its been a long time since they have. I do not leave it out in the weather often but it is a work machine.Thanks
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,665 Posts
Does that have the one way bearing on the primary? They need to be watched.
Normal wear on a belt is a lot more than 800 miles. I have seen them take some serious abuse too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I dont know if it does, so 800 Miles on the belt I should just leave it? Anyone Know if I have a one way bearing and if so what I should check on it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Okay so I will take it apart clean it up and look it over, Spring should still be okay as long as it is not rusty or broke? I am just wondering if the clutch is dirty and not allowing top speed or if it is a jetting issue. All I have is a HMF SLip on as teh Orginal Muffler had gotten a little damaged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Bearing # 23 Sits right behind clutch in diagram is that easy to get to and is it in oil or should I grease it while clutch is off? I have not purchased any parts yet as I will take it apart and see if it only needs a cleaning. I have heard the rollers getting gummy can cause top speed issues.


I do want to check jetting at some point as I do have a Slip on and a K&N Filter. The quad runs great and sounds great . I do get a little popping at times on decel but nothing crazy.


Is there a way to adjust belt deflection or it none adjustable? Thanks
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
37,127 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I have a Hard copy from cat on the service manual its just at my other shop, Ill get it this weekend. Wish the pictures were still in the post, I am not talking about the one way bearing there is another right behind the Primary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,999 Posts
Leave the one way bearing in it provides extra engine braking. The 500 doesn’t have much as it is. If you used an oil with friction modifiers , that is why your wet clutch would be slipping.
Download a free service manual at countrycat.com it will give you minimum width spec for your belt.
doorfx....I think the sentence about the 500 was meant for a different post...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Took it apart today, Everything came apart with out any issues, Belt looks good, Blew out the belt dust and wiped everything down, I didn't notice anything that needed to be replaced. The Belt sits down in the secondary just a little bit 1/16th or so. The Clutches look like they are using all but the last 1/16th of the sheave. Lack of speed maybe in my jetting?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
37,127 Posts
Measure the width of your belt with a caliper and compare to minimum belt spec in the service manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I should have when I had it apart and I did not, The caliper was at my other shop. In all honesty I Don't leave low gear often so top speed is not really an issue for me. I do like to make sure all everything works like it should so I may pull it back apart on a day I have nothing going on. 1.41 is the belt width? and it is measured up by the ribs? Belt dust and the Belt sitting a little down in the Secondary normal? I am going to pull the Winch next. Thanks
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,995 Posts
1/16” from top of sheaves will not equate into the amount of speeds lost (as pointed out by FirecatV2 above)

Jetting if it were off that far wouldn’t allow belt to reach that far (in high gear, “low”, maybe??), the slight popping is a slight (but not really bad) leanness of the idle circuit... Something that can be adjusted with the low speed mixture screw whenever you’d like to do it.

From the reading I’ve done, sounds like the wet clutch just isn’t performing fully up to snuff, possibly related to the oils used, much like pointed out earlier, that 0W40 Amsoil is an oil with friction modifiers in it. It’s fine to use in CVT driven units that DO NOT have a wet clutch inside of them, but not in the case such as yours.

If your sparkplug is coming out with porcelain being nearly white (with a few specks/hints of any type of fuel deposits), to a light tan coloring, jetting isn’t an issue.

If it were to be purely white (leaning towards what would appear to be a sort of light grey’ish coloring), you’re too lean then. But, I doubt that’s your issue, or you’d have a unit that wouldn’t want to rev out at WOT.

Just my 2-cent’s
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/atv-and-utv/formula-4-stroke-powersports-0w-40/?code=AFFQT-EA



Is the oil I use and it says it is Wet Clutch safe. I did have Sludge in the motor when I have the Head gasket go and put coolant into the motor ( Few years ago ), I tried to flush it out the best I could but still had some over the next couple oil changes, Last few have been clear. Like I said motor runs really well, Just seems down on power. It does turn over for 7 Sec or so before starting if I do not prime it first.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
19,995 Posts
Maybe “wet multi-disc” design clutch. (4-stroke dirtbikes and manual clutch sport/competition atv’s perhaps?)

In a wet “slipper clutch”, I’d say not “so safe” (these allow more slippage than manual multi-disc clutches do), and can lead to premature slipping.

Just sayin’
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
850 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Gotcha Is there another oil you recommend? Amsoil 10-W40 ATV Oil? If it is an oil issue anything i can do to fix it with out ripping it apart?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,401 Posts
Shell Rotella T6 is a good one to use.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top