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Discussion Starter #1
After riding long enough to get engine up to operating temp it cuts out and dies. It will idle all day long without a problem, it has to get warm before the problem begins. I ruled out fuel by going through the carb which was exceptionally clean...no trash in the bowl, gas was clean and free of varnish and all vent lines cleared. I have narrowed the problem down to ignition and here is why.
When it stalls, you MUST cycle either the run/off OR the key switch and it will immediately restart. If you do not, it will crank and crank without starting and must cool down a few minutes and will then restart. I'm thinking coil but do not have one to swap out to test. It is very odd to me that just cycling the ignition will immediatley fix the stalling condition. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the video KEEFUS. That was my first thought as I had heard of this issue before but did'nt realize that could be an intermitten problem...I will have to do some more checking. My thing is it seems to be heat related.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Still trouble shooting the ignition problem and noticed the spark plug cap wont ohm out. I took it off the high tension lead as specified. When I took the small fitting out on the plug-end of the cap there was one spring in there rattling around and did not fit tight. It ohms correctly to that point but I think its losing continuity in the connection. Would anyone with a 400 check to see if there spring fits tight or if I missing a part?? Much thanks to anyone who could help.
Also I would like to troubleshoot the flywheel thing before I pull the cover, drain the new oil, and have to buy the new $25 gasket to reinstall. Would I be able to do the coil test to verify it is in fact the flywheel? I'm guessing the "trigger coil" would be the one that supplies spark for ignition, correct?
 

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I went out and checked my connection and the spring is tight on the plug. My spring is not moving around in there either.It takes a good tug to get it off.
The way I found out my flywheel magnets were bad, I checked the volts on my battery with it running and it only showing 11.10volts and should have been 14-15 volts. So I new something was wrong inside the case because it was not charging battery very good. When I took the case off is when I found the magnets loose. I could never get my idle to set, it was always changing and my pms screw would not change idle either.
If you find this to be your problem, here is where I got the parts to repair mine. I bought the flywheel puller and would let you borrow it to save you the price of having to buy one. I ordered part number 79-32102-38F01 : ROTOR ASSY,for $262.03 and a gasket part number 79-11483-38F10 for $15.70 for a Suzuki Eiger from powersportsplus.com.
I ordered the flywheel puller part number MP31 from Pit Posse for $54.95 and $7.95 shipping.
Just let me know if you need the puller and I will get it shipped out to you.
keefus
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Keefus thanks alot for checking that plug cap out. My cap will not even ohm out but I put it all back together and it runs.??? I took it out today with my ohm meter hooked up to the trigger coil and sure enough after riding for about 10-15 minutes it shut down. It went from showing voltage to 0. As soon as I cycled the ignition switch, right back to showing voltage and running. This gave me enough evidence it was surely the flywheel so I pulled the cover. NOTHING. The flywheel magnets are perfectly intact and evenly spaced. I tried pulling on all of them and they wont budge. Now I'm really stumped. I would hate to button back up but I also don't want to buy a flywheel if not needed.
Now I'm back to wondering about the coil and spark plug cap although my symptoms sound alot like yours. It also idles erradically as well as dies under power. What other symptoms did you have? Also thanks alot for the offer on the puller but I have a Cat dealer about 10 miles from me that will pull it for $10.
 

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Check the wires good where they go tru the cover, make sure they are not cut and touching anything. I know some have had problems with these wires.
Other symptoms I had were it taking a long time to warm up and always need a little choke even after warm up to keep it running. I could adjust the idle and then rev it up and it never would return back to rpm's I had just adjusted it for.
If your magnets are good and still mounted solid Its not your flywheel. When mine was shutting down after slowing down while riding, I was loosing spark for a second. It would always start right back up and go again till I slowed down.
Do you have a wiring diagram for your atv. You may have a problem with the wires that go to your Ignition switch being you have to cycle it to get it to start again. I would check those wires and the wires on the red kill switch very good. you can get a wiring diagram here if you don't already have one.www.mymowerparts.com
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I checked the wires and they looked good. Also wiggled them while running and could not get any reaction. Put it back together and still idles exactly as you described. I have the manual and will be doing some more trouble shooting when I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update:

I finally got another CDI unit to test with and did not make a difference. So that is ruled out. Flywheel magnets were checked already.
I have my meter hooked up to the trigger coil. (black and blue wires) When warm, it lags in acceleration sometimes then suddenly dies. When you try restarting without cycling the ignition switch the meter shows 0 volts. Cycle the key, fires right up and shows voltage. I'm thinking replace the stator. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update on 400 ignition problem, Short video attached

Just replaced the stator, no bueno. This thing is driving me nuts!

So to recap:
-Checked the flywheel three times now, all magnets firmly seated and intact.
-CDI swapped out with another good unit
-Replaced stator
-Dies at no predictable time or condition, except the fact it seems to be heat related.
-All notable connectors have been checked, no corrosion issues found anywhere so far.

Here is a video I attached showing it failing. This was after I took it out and ran it hard and is up to operating temp. Notice after it dies the meter showing 0 voltage and not starting UNTIL the ignition switch is cycled.

 

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Did you measure the flywheel magnets to see if they were evenly spaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No I did not measure them but they appear to be spaced correctly. I did everything short of prying on them with a pry bar to make sure they were secure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It restarts and runs fine so i doubt it could be the flywheel. If the magnets were moving there would be a very slim chance they would return to their original position.
 

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Voltage Regulator? Maybe shutting it down when it see's 19 volts, i don't think it should be that high?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes the book says 4.2-6.3 but I don't think ignition voltage runs through the regulator/rectifier. According to the diagram, trigger voltage is 4.2-6.3 strait out of the pickup coil then runs directly to the cdi unit where it is amplified to 140-215 volts (primary blue/white wire) that runs to the ignition coil. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I believe the reg/rectifier is only for lights and aux power.
 

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Regulator/rectifier changes AC voltage to DC voltage for the battery and for the bike to rum on. The wiring diagram shows it is also tied into the ignition fuse and the fan fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update: Problex fixed

After doing some further investigating, I found the spark plug cap to be the culprit. The previous owner had apparently taken the cap off before and was missing the resistor leaving only the spring rattling around in there to make the connection. I'm surprised it even ran at all with it missing, but it did.
So I installed a new/used cap purchased from ebay and have put at least 10-15 miles on it with no problems.
I still was'nt convinced that could have been the real problem so I did some research on why resistors are used. Apparently, they suppress electromagnetic signals from the high voltage present that can interfere with the CDI unit causing erratic idle, high RPM misfire, power loss at certain RPM etc. Just thought I would throw that out there for the next person who is having ignition problems.
 

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Glad you found the problem.
 

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I'm having the exact problem. It stalls while throttling and then I have to cycle the key to get it to start, and it starts right up. I've already had that flywheel problem and had fixed that with the updated integrated magnetic system they now use. I've never changed my spark plug wire and its 15 years old now. That seems like a reasonable expense to try and remedy my stalling issues. Thank you.
 
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