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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my -05 F7 sno pro rear shocks (i asume it's both) is something like 10-15% to hard/stif, i never get them to bottom out (i'm not a big/high air flyer).
low speed on rough trail is awfull (feels like riding with solid iron bars instead of shochs) high speed on any kind of trail and it rocks.
No bottom out = not using full susp.travel.
need sugestions on how to reshim "bound" side in both Fox Zero pro shock(s) to performe more like "non pro" set up.
 

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Get them re valved for your weight and ridin styles. Adjust the suspension block to softest setting. I have same shocks on my sled and it use to bottom out all the time until i revalved them and now there rock hard. Your set up is more for aggressive riding. If you just cruise and take it easy then defiantly adjust your skid for softer plush ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Adjust the suspension block to softest setting..
already done that, and also rear arm coupler blocks in most "off" pos.
I have same shocks on my sled and it use to bottom out all the time until i revalved them and now there rock hard. Your set up is more for aggressive riding. If you just cruise and take it easy then defiantly adjust your skid for softer plush ride.
:) not taking it easy, shocks just to hard as they NEVER bottoms out.

Get them re valved for your weight and ridin styles. .
Yes, Rockerdude and i need some one to guide me to which chim in the bound stack that does what.
this is how it locks "to day"

Washer, Top Out
0.900 x 0.010 in.
1.000 x 0.010 in.
1.300 x 0.010 in.
1.425 x 0.010 in.
1.600 x 0.010 in.
1.600 x 0.010 in.
0.800 x 0.008 in.
0.900 x 0.008 in.
1.600 x 0.010 in.
1.600 x 0.010 in.
1.600 x 0.010 in.
Piston, 0.055 in. – Orifice
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
sorry, already revalved!!

Just talked to the guy that bought this sled new, (i’m 3:d owner) he used to tow a sled !!! with wife and child in it and he is a big fella.
He had them shocks re valved to suite his weight and usage.
I removed the towing hitch hock when I become owner, but never gave it a thought.
The “this is how it locks "to day" “ in previous post was what I found to be oem settings on http://www.brownsleisureworld.com did not pull mine apart.
Had no clue some normal and most hard riding “pilots” use to bottom out with stock valving.
I’m still interested in advise to a good 200 pound (90kg) rider shock set up, as mine is rock hard :Bangin:
 

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Just talked to the guy that bought this sled new, (i’m 3:d owner) he used to tow a sled !!! with wife and child in it and he is a big fella.
He had them shocks re valved to suite his weight and usage.
I removed the towing hitch hock when I become owner, but never gave it a thought.
The “this is how it locks "to day" “ in previous post was what I found to be oem settings on http://www.brownsleisureworld.com did not pull mine apart.
Had no clue some normal and most hard riding “pilots” use to bottom out with stock valving.
I’m still interested in advise to a good 200 pound (90kg) rider shock set up, as mine is rock hard :Bangin:
do you have the tools to take the shocks apart?? you may be better contacting a local suspension shop in your area and have them re valve it for you. You could also contact hygear and see if they will send you custom valve stacks for what you are doing.
 

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Before you start changing the shock I would look into the rear torsion springs. I'm 240 in gear. I've been dialing in my sno pro since I bought it and this season made the most progress. A couple of things to consider:

1) The rear springs may not be the sno pro springs that came with the sled and instead be 'fat boy' springs if the previous owner was on the big side. These are even stiffer than the stock springs. I learned this the hard way. It's like you said - riding with no suspension.

2) sno pro springs are STIFF and the stock sno pro shock is actually valved very light on compression and very heavy on rebound. Making the compression lighter will probably not give you the change you are looking for.

Half way through this season I switched to standard firecat springs, had the rear shock valved stiffer on compression, and had some of the rebound taken out to keep the skid from packing up with the lighter spring. I now have about 3" of sit-in with the springs on the middle preload setting, whereas before with the sno pro springs I couldn't get 1/2" on the lightest one. The difference is huge. I can sit the trail chatter comfortably (impossible before without being bounced off the seat), it soaks up the 6-10" moguls, and handles 1-2' rollers decently.
 

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Cact34r. When you say standard firecat spring are you talking OEM non snopro. I'm about 190 LBS with gear my sled is a bit hard. I was looking for springs, my problem was finding the right spring. My snopro has the square style springs all I could find is round. Had my shocks recharged and EXT to a 144" helped but still to hard. Maybe a 1/2" when I'm on sled. I don't get the weight transfer I want. I have bottomed out once from a flat landing at slow speed. I run my floats a 40PSI for trail they stay put but track bounces around. I'm looking for lighter springs, any Ideas? OEM or Aftermarket
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The difference is huge. I can sit the trail chatter comfortably (impossible before without being bounced off the seat), it soaks up the 6-10" moguls, and handles 1-2' rollers decently.
I done a rear shock rebuild on the rear of the skid, i'm now 95% pleased with the way it handles.
..did you do any changes in the front of the skid?
I get inner ski lift, not uncommon on these cats i know, but it's to much.
I haven't shortned the "straps" but i "released" the front skid spring so it's as god as lose.
If i sitt closer to the fueltank i feel the "bumps" much more than if i sitt as far back as i can get.
And it feels like the "impakt" is in front of me some how. :Bangin:
To hard front skid spring or to "hard" front skid shock?
any ideas?
 

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Cact34r. When you say standard firecat spring are you talking OEM non snopro. I'm about 190 LBS with gear my sled is a bit hard. I was looking for springs, my problem was finding the right spring. My snopro has the square style springs all I could find is round. Had my shocks recharged and EXT to a 144" helped but still to hard. Maybe a 1/2" when I'm on sled. I don't get the weight transfer I want. I have bottomed out once from a flat landing at slow speed. I run my floats a 40PSI for trail they stay put but track bounces around. I'm looking for lighter springs, any Ideas? OEM or Aftermarket
Yes, I'm referring to the OEM standard firecat springs. They are round, but my OEM sno-pro springs were round as well. The fat-boy springs I took off when I first got the sled were square. Are you sure you have snopro springs and not the heavier fat boy springs?

1/2" of sit-in is not enough in my opinion and indicates a stiff rear setting that will not be able to absorb anything but bigger hits. I bounced all over on the small chatter before I made these changes. Do you have your coupler blocks in? I had mine out for a while and it did soften up the back some, but also made it more prone to bottom hard because there was no help from the front on hard sharp hits. Big rollers were ok because it was a slow hit - slow shock motion.

I would get your springs to where you can get 2-3" of sit in. If you can't on the lowest setting, move down in spring stiffness. Then, re-valve the shock for more compression (to resist bottoming) and less rebound (because you will no longer have all that energy in the spring on a hit that will need to be absorbed on the way back up).

It's always a trade off - but I'm satisfied if I can get it dialed in for 85% of my riding conditions.
 

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I done a rear shock rebuild on the rear of the skid, i'm now 95% pleased with the way it handles.
..did you do any changes in the front of the skid?
I get inner ski lift, not uncommon on these cats i know, but it's to much.
I haven't shortned the "straps" but i "released" the front skid spring so it's as god as lose.
If i sitt closer to the fueltank i feel the "bumps" much more than if i sitt as far back as i can get.
And it feels like the "impakt" is in front of me some how. :Bangin:
To hard front skid spring or to "hard" front skid shock?
any ideas?
I started with a fett brothers stage 2 package. That involved some work on the Floats and the front skid shock. They also supplied a stiffer front track springs and had me move the front skid shock back one hole. I ran this for a season but felt like I was trading too much travel for better handling. So, I'm running the stiffer front skid spring with the shock in the factory hole in the rails. All the preload is off the spring. When I felt that impact you were describing it was when my float's were up about 65psi - bringing this down to 50-55 really helped. the front skid spring/shock really controls the weight on the skis more than anything else and if you have the spring all the way off in preload I doubt that's the cause of what you are seeing.

That's assuming the shock is stock and working properly of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I started with a fett brothers stage 2 package. That involved some work on the Floats and the front skid shock. .
what differense do you feel from that?
So, I'm running the stiffer front skid spring with the shock in the factory hole in the rails. All the preload is off the spring..
stiffer spring, that was a suprice !
When I felt that impact you were describing it was when my float's were up about 65psi - bringing this down to 50-55 really helped. .
Time to lose some pressure, i did set mine to 65.
lower pressure= more or less inner ski lift when cornering?
-to "loose" a friend on a yamaha i rely got swetty and when the yamaha corners "flat", i'm on one ski.. (not good for my cat ego)
That's assuming the shock is stock and working properly of course.
time to rebild it just to be sure then :)
Done any thing to your front skid "straps"? I dunno
 
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