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Discussion Starter #1
Im wondering if anyone has had this issue, and if anyone may know a fix or what to look for. Last ride it was doing this really bad. I went to take a look at the new plug boots i had put on, and found that the old ignition wires were close to touching one another (prev. owner unhooked it). I taped the wires up so they wernt touching, and it seemed alright the rest of the day. Today i take it for a quick ride, to find it seems like its dropping a cylinder once in a while. It'll be fine one minute, even blipping the throttle it'll seem ok, but every once in a while going from no throttle to wide open it'll seem loaded up a bit, but actually sounds like its got a dead hole. The plugs are only 3 rides old...other then that, i dont have any other guesses. Anyone have this happen before?
Thanks in advance
Brian
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Coxy @ Dec 28 2006, 04:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Im wondering if anyone has had this issue, and if anyone may know a fix or what to look for. Last ride it was doing this really bad. I went to take a look at the new plug boots i had put on, and found that the old ignition wires were close to touching one another (prev. owner unhooked it). I taped the wires up so they wernt touching, and it seemed alright the rest of the day. Today i take it for a quick ride, to find it seems like its dropping a cylinder once in a while. It'll be fine one minute, even blipping the throttle it'll seem ok, but every once in a while going from no throttle to wide open it'll seem loaded up a bit, but actually sounds like its got a dead hole. The plugs are only 3 rides old...other then that, i dont have any other guesses. Anyone have this happen before?
Thanks in advance
Brian[/b]
Did this start after the new plugs were installed?
If so it could be a bad "NEW" plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Mcflying. Its had new plugs on it for a few rides, so its not directly in time with the plug change, although i will change them again to make sure. It is more in time with me putting new plug boots on (one was not very tight feeling) so i replaced them. I changed them back on the first ride out after that, to be sure. Thats when i had found my ignition wires touching each other once in a while. Something you said about the computer going into limp mode...any chance this could be similar? I put 100km's on today, and it was doing it alot for the first while, and the last half of the ride, it seemed to tame itself a bit, and run more consistant (better). I dont know what to say, ill toss a new set of plugs at it again, and maybe try my new plug boots again. Other then that, im at a loss. Thanks again,
Brian
 

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Is it doing it throughout the entire rpm range or more in a certain range? How many miles on it? If its happening at the top end of the throttle around the 6800-7000 rpm range your Power valves are sticking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmm, ok, ill definitly check it out. Im getting close to 1400 miles on it, and i know its had good oil in it, and seems to be mixing on average to 40:1, but ill check em out this week. Thanks for another area to check into. It may not be, but they are worth checking definitly. The problem is very intermitent, and just wont let the rpm come up, you can play with the throttle a bit and it will sometimes go away right away, and sometimes wont change a thing for a little while. I dont like these types of problems.
Thanks once again,
Brian
 

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As camel said that is a good thing to check.
Is it okay when cold, and misses when really hot, that is sometimes the sign of a weak coil that is going to soon fail completely.
Also try switching plug wires with a buddy on a ride if you have similar sleds.
Then if his sled misses and yours is okay you know its just the wires.

And i learned by experience that a new spark plug can for sure be faulty right from the box.
Changed plugs on my pick up and it only ran on 7 cylinders after due to a bad plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Right on guys, ill do some checks and cleaning of the APV's this week. I havent had a chance to mess with the coil or the wires, as its pretty tight in there even with the pipe off. Maybe messing with the plug boots and moving them around etc allowed a problematic plug wire to show more. I rode about 35 miles today, with about a good hard hour of playing and hillclimbing, and it only did it once for a minute. I got really burried trying to sidehill out of a bowl, so i took about a half hour digging and packing and turning, and i fired it up, went back down for another try, and the next 2-3 tries it was crapping out, then perfect, climbed out of the bowl and didnt bother me anymore after that. Ill put a little gas line antifreeze in the tank, check or change the wires if possible, put my new plugs in, check/clean the APV's and hopefully next weekend it wont rear its ugly head again. Thanks boys,
Brian
 

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I would also look at teh wires right where they go into the injectors.
They get a lot of heat and the heat has a tendancy to make them brittle.
One could be partially broken making intermittent contact, and cutting fuel to that cylinder as well.
Its just a wild guess, but if the coils and wires check out ok, it maybe another thing to look at.

Happy New Year :beer_cheers:
 

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Some 05's are heavy on the gas and many of the limiteds had to be reprogrammed. As they would load up after not riding hard enuff or too much idleing. I have had this happen amny times even when I thought I was hammering it. Got a good long wot pull for 1 mile and it was like new again. It all depended on how I was riding, as we do alot of tight backwoods riding and no reall long pulls. The coil is also another good spot to look like mentioned, but it is more of a hesitation at first and when it gets worse it won't ever rev past a certain rpm when hot. cold it'll be fine. Look for consistentcy and try to make it happen under 1 specific condition. I would personally cut your wires a quarter to half inch shorter and retherad in your boots again. Also do a spark test.
 

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if all else fails try a new voltage regulater one faild on my friends 1m and what you are discribing hapend with his we put in new plugs it ran fine for a few minutesthenlost power shut it down instaled new plugs[we put in 5 new sets buy the time we got back to the truck.cat checked it out put in a new reg has run like a charm ever since.
 

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I have a 05 M7 also, and when it was brand new I had a problem with it fouling plugs (5 in one trip one time). So if your machine is basically stock this is what cured my problems and ever since I have had no problems.

-Oil rich- backed off the oil injection 3 revolutions (Test mixture before thrashing every machine is different)
-new timing key- advanced it 2 degrees- run only supreme gas
-air intak modification to 4" took out 2 3/4" horn
-adjusted the fuel regulator to 42 psi with a second inline regulator (check with dealer on exact recommendations)or get a boondocker
-D&D lightweight can (should not be a factor but made it sound awesome and reduced the weight)

It worked for me and I haven't had a problem since, plus I picked up 10 extra ponies.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Awesome! Ya know, i was thinking about maybe cutting back the plug wires when doing the boots, especially since i messed with them a couple times now, maybe im not getting great conduction now, thanks for that one Sleeper. Ill try that, plugs, and checking wiring all around because its an easy place to start. I did want to mention that for the first time i put supreme fuel in it last ride, and the sled ran noticably better. I normally wont run more octane unless its nessisary, but i did notice a difference for sure, also, the problem only occured the one short time, coincodence? Anyways guys, im sure ill be riding this weekend again, so i will try the idea's again, and report back. Thanks yet again for the feedback.
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright, put new plugs in, gapped to .029, trimmed back the wires a 1/4", and threaded on the new NGK boots. Checked wiring that i could see, and felt pretty good heading out. Thing ran like a bag of smashed assholes. Every 5th time id wack the throttle it would actually run alright. I can safely say its not "bogging" its cutting out, damn near like a limiter or something like that. I shut it down after a little bit of playing in a clearcut, it made a couple descent pulls here and there, and it is obviously fueling bad, because it lets out a big firey backfire when i kill it. Cutting spark and loading up with fuel? Now, heres the part that has me wondering, the last half or so of the day/ride, the thing ran about 90%. Only really had it act up on one little pull, but cleared up fairly quick. It'll do it when its really hot, or right after a little cool down, whenever, but am noticing it seems to go away say, 1/4 tank of fuel and under....
I really dont know what to say, im clawing for answers. Does it sound like maybe power valves? Not really from what ive read, but hopefully... I really hope its not an ecu problem or some crazy thing. Thanks for anymore tips, suggestions, or answers guys,
Brian
 

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You probably already thought of this but if you are pressing the throttle downward while standing the Throttle sensor cuts the power. I had this problem and just needed to adjust the position of the throttle so I wasn't pushing down on it while standing. With everything you have checked I'm sure you thought of this but I figured I'd post it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mossey, when im just buzzin along the trail for instance, and im say, blipping the throttle a bit, it sounds/feels just fine. I go to hammer up a cut block or something, hit wide open and it seems to quickly pull descent rpm, then just starts cutting out, almost like a reverb type rpm....bouncing probably 500rpm. I havent had a chance to get a real good look at the rpm in which it sits at when its acting up, as im normally expecting the sled to work, and am trying to get myself out of trouble with the sudden lack of power. It just has me stumped, as its so intermittent.
Keweenaw, I have been thinking about this, but have yet to try unplugging the safety and try it. i have a Snowbunji lefty, and dont use it much because its froze most of the time, and at first suspected that holding the throttle partially open or something. But, it does seem that i want to grab the throttle at the pivot more then the outside of the flipper. Ill check this out this weekend. I tore into the power valves last night, and they were a bit dirty....ive never played with PV's before so i dont really know whats considered bad/good. Also, gonna adjust my cable length a tad, im +1mm over the stated spec in the manual, so ill bring er back a bit. Sorry for the long winded reply again. Thanks for the efforts guys, ill hopefully get this figured out sometime soon!
Brian
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Coxy @ Jan 9 2007, 05:39 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Mossey, when im just buzzin along the trail for instance, and im say, blipping the throttle a bit, it sounds/feels just fine. I go to hammer up a cut block or something, hit wide open and it seems to quickly pull descent rpm, then just starts cutting out, almost like a reverb type rpm....bouncing probably 500rpm. I havent had a chance to get a real good look at the rpm in which it sits at when its acting up, as im normally expecting the sled to work, and am trying to get myself out of trouble with the sudden lack of power. It just has me stumped, as its so intermittent.
Keweenaw, I have been thinking about this, but have yet to try unplugging the safety and try it. i have a Snowbunji lefty, and dont use it much because its froze most of the time, and at first suspected that holding the throttle partially open or something. But, it does seem that i want to grab the throttle at the pivot more then the outside of the flipper. Ill check this out this weekend. I tore into the power valves last night, and they were a bit dirty....ive never played with PV's before so i dont really know whats considered bad/good. Also, gonna adjust my cable length a tad, im +1mm over the stated spec in the manual, so ill bring er back a bit. Sorry for the long winded reply again. Thanks for the efforts guys, ill hopefully get this figured out sometime soon!
Brian[/b]
Any chance your cat dealer will hook his sensor to it for you and see if it has any codes?
 

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just curious if your sled thinks it is overheating or if it is actually overheating and retarding the ignition like a knock sensor. do you see any lights flashing and have you pulled a plug to see if they look different when this occurs, like one might be dark tan while the other is wet and black this is a good tool to find which cylinder you are having a problem with and if you are actually losing a cylinder.
 

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I'm bringing this one back from the dead. I'm having the same issue on my 05 M7.

Has anyone else ever solved this problem before? I've spent 2 days troubleshooting this so far. I've made some progress, but it's still not right.

I'm running an 05 M7 162 with SLP Twins, SLP intake and a Boondocker box using the following maps:

RPM Low Mid High Trim
3000 -3 0 0 0
5000 0 3 0 0
6700 0 0 -13 0
7800 0 0 7 0
8100 0 0 6 0

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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