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Discussion Starter #1
Last April I disassembled my f7 efi down to the ground and cleaned it and replaced all the bearings. After I reassembled it I ran it very little, but enough to know it was doggy at high rpm, I found the APV cables were pulling apart and just put it in storage with the thought of replacing the cables this fall. So I recently replaced them and tried to adjust them to the 1.35 cable length spec. Ran it 2 nights ago to find it's still doggy and the servo snaps open at the approriate rpm and then it closes in about 1 second and engine sits around 7000 to 7100 rpm, it doesn't open again until you rev it back up to the servo cycle rpm, 7100. So I built a tool that is exactly 1.35 inches in length and has a slit in the center to slide the cable into, then i just make the proper adjustment to reach the spec cable length. They were out of adjustment from when I first installed them but now are correct. I am still getting the same issue, no check engine light at all, but it does have a custom burn in the ecu for hillclimbing. What am I missing, and has anyone else experienced this?? Is the ecu causing the no check engine light possibly, like maybe it was programmed out? Any info is greatly appreciated!!
 

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Yes to my knowledge they are installed correctly, I put them in like my manual showed and I'm fairly certain I have them installed how they should be. It said the long side of the valve should face the cylinder head so thats what i did.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The servo doesn't cycle 3 times like I have read and heard, it just does the one cycle open and closed then stays closed even if i keep the throttle clamped to the handlebar... I'm kind of confused on this
 

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are the cables hooked up right and not binding on anything? it might be trying to open but then something is restricting it so it just shuts them
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes cables are hooked up correctly, they move freely and i can hear the valve "clanking" when i pull the cable and the valve is bottoming out.
 

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Pull the cables off the servo motor and turn it manually to see if the gears turn smoothly. I have seen the gears inside strip and that will cause the servo to slip. If it is doing this maybe the ECU is still seeing that is is moving but the gears are stripped not holding the valves open.

Let me know if this helps, if there is anything else I can help yu with just let me know.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I got it fixed tonight, it was kinda dumb really. I decided to check the cable lenghts one more time so i could check the servo as mentioned above as well. They were close to being right but i decided to tighten them up a little more. then when i was running it I was watching the servo movement and nothing else, so i never noticed the rubber boot that connects the intake to the hood was collapsing and choking the motor off causing rpm to drop and the servo to close the valves.... :blush: So I disconnected the boot for a minute and it screams like it should now, I never tried shutting the hood so the boot was in proper shape to not suck closed because I was watching the stupid servo. Oh well live and learn, hooked the boot back up and took it for a short ride. Runs perfect! just glad it's fixed for the storm of the century we are getting starting tonight!! Thanks to all for your help. Merry Christmas!
 
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