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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not run in at least 5 yrs. ran fine when i parked. Stored inside and out

Pumped out old gas. Puréed the pipes to check for mouse nests Put four gallons of new ethanol free premium in. No go. It will idle a little bit then die. Can keep opposite piston going if I feather throttle but does die eventually

put in seafom - no go on clutch side piston

new plugs- no go

tried swapping plug wires - no go

pulled fuel pump and checked smart valve..seem fine - no go

APVs don’t look too dirty

pulled tss and cleaned up gunk - no go

did a simple thumb test and appears to have decent compression but I’m going to get a gauge and check that next.

If compression checks out next up is to yank the air box and all the associated wires and take a look at the reeds.

Anybody got any other ideas or things I should try before actually taking this thing apart…

basically where should I go next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I put gas into cylinder and it will pop and run for maybe 2 seconds. Injectors require yanking the air box?

I see the two screws on the frame and the rubber boots down below but what else do I have to disconnect /yank before I pull the air box?
 

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Maybe try a little more gas.
2 seconds is not long for run time.
Have you disconnected the run/stop.
Should try all things that are easy 1st.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe try a little more gas.
2 seconds is not long for run time.
Have you disconnected the run/stop.
Should try all things that are easy 1st.
Yeah I disconnected that didn’t make a difference. Then I yanked it out cleaned and re installed. I tried a decent amount of gas (starting fluid caps worth) and some even some starting fluid.
Im thinking it’s maybe air starved ?
 

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Pop your primary clutch off and look at crank seal rubber (could be rotted/chunking away like in photo I’m attaching), if you see excessive oil at seal/crank snout area,, good chance it’s not making enough “primary crankcase pressure” (on pistons downstroke, causing mixture to not be boosted into cylinders combustion chamber area)

Note: photo is Polaris F/C twin engine (just using photo for reference of what to possibly look for)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
do a compression test with a known good gauge, another free test.
So cold, no throttle I got 87 coil side and 90 clutch side ….seems low but 1. It’s a harbor freight jobber 2. I believe you run wide open throttle when you check compression on these things normally?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pop your primary clutch off and look at crank seal rubber (could be rotted/chunking away like in photo I’m attaching), if you see excessive oil at seal/crank snout area,, good chance it’s not making enough “primary crankcase pressure” (on pistons downstroke, causing mixture to not be boosted into cylinders combustion chamber area)

Note: photo is Polaris F/C twin engine (just using photo for reference of what to possibly look for)
I suspect you need a tool for this right?
 

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yes those are low.
pour some oil , a little , down the hole and see if psi increases.
yes throttle all the way open when pulling.
pull over 3 times per cylinder
 

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I would not pull the clutch yet... I would remove ALL air box etc.... Spray the throttle body WIDE OPEN to get it to fire, spray behind the drive clutch when it fires up... use two people spraying each area... Then ya know if it's a NO fuel problem or bad crank SEAL... Besure BOTH plugs have good spark with ignition first.. Find it hard to beleave both cylinders are bad... A cheap gauge will give low readings, but both have 90psi you say? Plus cheap ones get FUEL in the gauge lines on two strokes testing them....You say it ran when stored..... My bet is you have a fuel delivery problem is all.... !! Reeds, gaskets... etc...... Hopefully if it's a seal it's a outer seal PTO or MAG side... I bet motor itself is fine.... Switch the injector connections also one side to the other... To test if PTO side opens... You can also use a little 9 volt battery see if they open... or jump box... You pulled those injectors out? be careful if there are O-RINGS placement... !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got her purring. After cleaning the throttle body and then cleaning the injectors with a little cleaning spray, some alligator clips and my car battery she fired right up. Both pistons firing like a champ.

only issue now is the wiring - the kill switch kills the sled but turning the ignition does not. I would just leave it but I’m selling the sled to my neighbor and would love to have it working “as advertised” before I hand it over.

Anybody got a link to a schematic tutorial on it or want to grab picture of how there’s is connected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did have to replace one of the orings - had gas shooting out and quickly shut it down. Luckily ace hardware has the right size replacement (Napa was out) new orings in no more fuel leak at the injectors. Little by little it’s coming along. Tomorrow night I’ll tackle the ignition switch wiring
 

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I did have to replace one of the orings - had gas shooting out and quickly shut it down. Luckily ace hardware has the right size replacement (Napa was out) new orings in no more fuel leak at the injectors. Little by little it’s coming along. Tomorrow night I’ll tackle the ignition switch wiring

Just a thought for ya..... I'm a Rotax guy.... But I rebuilt a 580 ZR EFI..... I took pics before I striped it for wiring LOL.... AND WAS LUCKY I DID !!!
 
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