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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a 01 zr 800 a couple weeks ago for 1200 sled is great and is in really good condition also has some after markets like mbrb race can, handle bar risers, Chrome windshield, 1.5 track, d&d clutch kit the sled is very quick but however it doesn't handle worth a darn. Is there anything I can do to make it corner better? Any help would be great as I am not familiar with these artic cat sleds I have always owned skidoo before and while they lacked a little in power they always handled great.
 

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A little vague in your description. In what way does it not handle well? Does it push in corners, dart, does the back end slide out, pick up inside ski in corners, ...... Unless you tell us what it is doing we won't e able to help.
 

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How are the shocks? Had the same sled new and it cornered like it was on rails. That chassis is still one of the best handling on the market. Sounds like the prev owner liked to mess with the sled, so who knows how it's set up now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I messed with my suspension today and got most of the the push out but I think it's time for some new shocks. Im going to throw on some firecat skis. Should I just have my front shocks rebuilt or I should I put some sno pro firecat shocks on?
 

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I have the same sled two. Just rebuilt the shocks on mine. No differents. Still handles like **** coming out of a corner. The 01 zr was not the best handling. The 02 zr was. The 02 have coupler blocks the 01 does not. Install a set so your front end doesn't slide when powering through a corner. Buy the way to rebuild your rear shocks. You have to take the hole skid apart. With a 1.5 track you need coupler blocks!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Where can I buy these blocks I can't seem to find them anywhere. If I knew the specs my father is welder fabricator and could easily make some anyone got the dimensions and a pic of them installed
 

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I messed with my suspension today and got most of the the push out but I think it's time for some new shocks. Im going to throw on some firecat skis. Should I just have my front shocks rebuilt or I should I put some sno pro firecat shocks on?
I had the same sled but the CC LE with front ARM adjust and clicker front shocks and it handled great as long as I had the limiter strap pulled up and 8 in. carbides on the skis.
Does it still steer hard? If it does lift up the front end and make sure it steering nice and free,if not you may have a bent a-arm or something else may be bent.
As far as changing skis is concerned I think the firecat used the same skis.
Like the other members said the 01 and older ZR's had an un-coupled rear suspension that would cause the skis to lift when you accelerated out of corners.
There was a couple companies that made rear suspension upgrade kits that would couple the rear suspension I think one was called sled pro
There is a pretty good suspension set-up guide on monsterperfomance.com that will give you a pretty good guideline as to setting up that sled.
You may want to talk to the previous owner to see what else he did and what conditions he had it set up for. Obviously the 1.5 in. track gives some indication that it was used in deeper snow conditions possibly off trail which would explain the pushing and ski lift.
While you have the front end up check to see that the sway bars were not removed.
Make sure you have proper ski toe out. It should be about an 1/8 of an inch out at the front of the skis.
Can't think of anything else at the moment,hope this helps you out.
 

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Buckstalker. Well said
Thanks,it looks like yours is a CC LE also. Based on the pics of your rear suspension I noticed the front arm adjust on the front shock. I liked the way the un-coupled ZR's handled,as long as you tapped the brake hard right at the start of a corner to plant the front end down it was a blast to ride. The other nice thing about them was that you could wheelie right over those 4-10 in. high stutter bumps or any bump for that matter. Plus as long as you had the track studded good hole shots were awesome. Anyway nice looking 925 that thing must rip!Cat happy
 

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I dont like people telling others to mod stuff its bad advice most of the time. But the coupler blocks help tons on the 800 to keep the skis planted into the corners. My advice to you get your shocks recharged. Make sure the limiter strap bracket with the nut on it is almost to full length if you have the front arm adjuster on the handle bars (the knob). If the limiter strap is shorten you wont have full adjustablity (alot of people shorten it for some odd reason). When the knob is cranked all the way out you should have full limiter strap length. When the knob is cranked in you should have the shortest stroke the shock has putting all the weight on the skis. All that knob does is shortens and lengthens the shock stroke in front.
The other thing is to put the coupler block kit on. The 800 has so much power when you hammer the throttle it picks the skis. When the coupler blocks are on you slow into the corner and you hammer the throttle it start lift just a hair and you can feel it couple and push the skis down hard and you corner like your on rails. The harder you hammer on the throttle the harder it will push the front down it is amazing if things are set right how well they handle. But you have to have your shocks working correctly all the way around. Front ski and rear shocks. Another trick to get the front to bit is crank the springs on your front ski shocks stiffer. Doing so your going to give up your center of gravity find your sweet spot. Some people like to slide a little in the corners others like it to stick right now. That is up to your liking.
Hope that helps you out.
 

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I dont like people telling others to mod stuff its bad advice most of the time. But the coupler blocks help tons on the 800 to keep the skis planted into the corners. My advice to you get your shocks recharged. Make sure the limiter strap bracket with the nut on it is almost to full length if you have the front arm adjuster on the handle bars (the knob). If the limiter strap is shorten you wont have full adjustablity (alot of people shorten it for some odd reason). When the knob is cranked all the way out you should have full limiter strap length. When the knob is cranked in you should have the shortest stroke the shock has putting all the weight on the skis. All that knob does is shortens and lengthens the shock stroke in front.
The other thing is to put the coupler block kit on. The 800 has so much power when you hammer the throttle it picks the skis. When the coupler blocks are on you slow into the corner and you hammer the throttle it start lift just a hair and you can feel it couple and push the skis down hard and you corner like your on rails. The harder you hammer on the throttle the harder it will push the front down it is amazing if things are set right how well they handle. But you have to have your shocks working correctly all the way around. Front ski and rear shocks. Another trick to get the front to bit is crank the springs on your front ski shocks stiffer. Doing so your going to give up your center of gravity find your sweet spot. Some people like to slide a little in the corners others like it to stick right now. That is up to your liking.
Hope that helps you out.
X2 well put,TEAMGREEN
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay we'll I ran across a skid for a 02 zr witch had the blocks and a new 1" track with a 144 double backer studs that I picked up for 200 dollars so I'm going to have the shocks rebuilt and install it for next year. Hope this helps! Thanks for all the info guys
 
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