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Not sure if this is causing your problem but in the one pic your rear shock bottom attachment has flipped down. I think. If its the same as my 2000
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hmm maybe I need to look at a diagram my 2000 ZL is on the bottom side. Same as my 01 ZL we're discussing. Anyone have a diagram for the rear shock mount?
 

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Hmm maybe I need to look at a diagram my 2000 ZL is on the bottom side. Same as my 01 ZL we're discussing. Anyone have a diagram for the rear shock mount?
Diagrams are in service manuals available to download at country cat . com under technical information
 

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Not sure if this is causing your problem but in the one pic your rear shock bottom attachment has flipped down. I think. If its the same as my 2000
Looks like it to me as well
 

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ZR's and ZL's have different shock mounting locations, the ZL goes down and has an extra part, and the ZR goes up as in Monongahela's pictures. Check the diagrams for both.
 

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Looks like wrong springs



1704-184/185
.421 90° 8.75 4.43 18.10 5.70 Round


0704-888/889 (stock)
.437 75° 8.75 4.60 18.0 5.5 Round

P/N, Wire Diameter (A),Angle (B), Coils, Coil Width (C), Length (D). Length (E), Spring Type

363213
 

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Alright, I finally went and checked the service manual and parts diagrams. The springs you have are normal weight springs for 95-96 cougars, ZRT's, etc. They are made for the pre-fastrack suspension, and very likely were over-flexed to the point of permanent deformation by the longer travel suspension.

What you want are 0704-944 and 0704-945, those are the heavy springs for an 00-01 ZL. Even heavier would be the heavy springs for the Cougar 2-up sleds, 0704-886 and 0704-887.

The chart below has the old part numbers, I used www.blwpartsfiche.com to convert to the new ones above.

363214
 

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Yeah, the shock link looks to be in the wrong location, per the posted diagram. However, I doubt that would over load the springs and straighten them out like they are. I think you need to take the springs back for a warranty claim because they must be faulty to deform like that. With fresh "fat boy" springs I'd think you could start off in the lowest preload setting and be happy.
 

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You can't go by part numbers and sled models to pick stiffer springs, you need to look at the spring specs. I'm sure there are more spring options than there are sled models as the spring options are for fine tuning, not for regular production. They make different wire diameter and tail angles to provide different spring rates and capacities. The smaller the tail angle, the stiffer the spring. The larger the wire diameter the stiffer the spring. Look at the spring specs to find the springs best suited to your needs.
 

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How high are your ski shocks set up? Many times people crank up the ski shocks to get better steering and they over center the front track shock causing the rear to sag. Try pushing down on the front bumper of your sled and see if the rear will pop right back up.
For the record, torsion springs almost never wear out, and shocks have zero, nothing, zip to do with rear ride height.
 

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You can't go by part numbers and sled models to pick stiffer springs, you need to look at the spring specs. I'm sure there are more spring options than there are sled models as the spring options are for fine tuning, not for regular production. They make different wire diameter and tail angles to provide different spring rates and capacities. The smaller the tail angle, the stiffer the spring. The larger the wire diameter the stiffer the spring. Look at the spring specs to find the springs best suited to your needs.
So you're saying to ignore the service manual, ignore all references to part numbers in technical documentation, and...blindy go searching for a spring based on specs? If so, why did they even bother to put the information for light/heavy springs in the manual? Why specify springs at all? Just let the end user pick a set at random!

We all understand how springs work, thicker is obviously stiffer, and more tail angle will give less preload. If you want springs to be chosen by spec, the least you could do for this thread is link a table containing the specs for ALL rear springs, that way we can make an informed recommendation. Also make sure to note fastrack vs non-fastrack, as well as tail length and whether the spring might need to be cut to length.

How high are your ski shocks set up? Many times people crank up the ski shocks to get better steering and they over center the front track shock causing the rear to sag. Try pushing down on the front bumper of your sled and see if the rear will pop right back up.
For the record, torsion springs almost never wear out, and shocks have zero, nothing, zip to do with rear ride height.
You missed the part where he put pre-fastrack springs on a fastrack skid, very likely overflexing them to the point of failure.
 

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0704-886 / 0704-887

I run these springs on a 1998 ZR AND a 2000 ZL.
They have very very close specs to the stock springs for both sleds. The main differences being the diameter of the wire, and the length of the long arm of the spring. I cut them to length.
They are definitely on the heavy side even for me at 275 but I need a firm suspension. (Just my preference). I have them on the lightest preload and have room to bump that up as the springs lose their strength (which they will over time because I ride a little hard and our trails are rough most of the season).
 

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I had an '02 cross country that the springs sacked out on and I hated the 1-2 inches of sag the ZR's had, not to mention I was about 250lbs at the time and rode ditches like my name was Tucker! 😁😂
I replaced my springs with a set for a '12 bearcat, they were square stock and only had to cut them to length. After that the sag was gone, it rode like a lumber wagon but it didnt bottom out on every other woop, it was more like every 20th. It bottomed out just enough that i was content that the suspension was fully compressing on occasion cause they need to do that.
 
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