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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
01 zr440 sp liquid, finally got the parts installed for the carbs, float needle valve seats,new plugs, cleaned the jets, installed new fuel lines, filter, fuel pump and impulse line... checked needle clip 3rd position, all new over flow lines on the carbs..
Here's what i did today Synced the carbs and fired it up, fired right up after a couple pulls 2 or 3. Let it warm (idles awesome) couple blips with the track suspended (response felt great) and took it out in the field, no power what so ever, struggling to do 55-60mph, did a full throttle pass and chop , checked plugs looked good cocoa....
Previous owner told me he had it clutched, and all it needed was "maybe a carb cleaning".Well there is nothing in the carbs left to clean or adjust but it does run pretty good (running wise not power wise if that makes sense).....
The clutches are kicking in at 3200-3500 rpms??
Compression is approx 100psi each cyl give or take 2-3 psi, seems low to me, you?

Called previous owner ask him a few questions and let him know I'm not too happy, he told me the sled has "trail heads on it" and that he had it set up for his daughter hence the slow acceleration 'my friend bought it new" but know one knows where the original heads are ect...
"those sleds only go 60mph or so"........ Oh but when i bought it, it was "that thing will pull the ski's right up no problem, not many sleds touch it off the start " ectect.....


Can someone tell me what is b.s and what isn't because I'm starting feel like my good deal wasn't such a good deal anymore... Sorry for the confusing post, been working on the sled all day to just be let down and feeling disappointed....


Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh and is there a way to identify that the heads have actually been changed or not?? They are arctic cat 440 heads, have a casting mark of 88B...Thanks
 

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I seem to be having the same problem with my zr sno-pro 440. to only thing diff about mine is my clutch kicks in at about 5200. but i hold it wide open and the thing just bogs. i have a 280 jet in the left carb and a 290 on the right running 112 fuel and the timming switch on 0 I moved it to +2 and it still does the same thing. i have went threw the carbs and cleaned them. i was thinking mine was the fuel pump i was going to change that but i dont want to trow parts at it

I cant seem to find the smae fuel pump thats on my sled will the other style dul pump work

thanks for any help
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I bought a new fuel pump also but it turned out not to be the pump, i bought the mikuni dual outlet universal pump it worked fine but i ended up just putting my stocker back on.. My sled doesn't really bog ,it just doesn't go-pull like it supposed to, slowly accelerates and tops out very slow...I'm thinking that maybe the low compression and the clutch engaging at 3200 is the problem.It's my first sled but I've always had dirtbikes and atv's so I'm pretty sure my compression is really low...I'm going to dump it off in the guys front yard pretty soon here...
 

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get a new belt for it. a bad belt will kill your performance. your comp. is a little low, but should still pull pretty good. if you put the race heads back on, you will have to run race fuel. pop your chaincase cover off and check the gearing. and it sounds like your clutches are not tuned properly. . on the stand open it up acouple times and watch the clutchesto verify they are opening and closing all the way. and are working together. those sleds should do around 70- 75
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think i have another probable cause ,What happens if the power valves stick?When i first brought the sled home the power valve servo was not even connected ,i connected it.I went out tonight to check them and the cables were so loose they were about to fall off the servo, like the servo was turning but the cables aren't moving at all......????
 

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WOW!!

We are all having zr 440 sno pro problems!

I just bought one and am having the same issues as all of you. Right off the line the thing has great power, but right after that it goes up to about 40-50 and kind of dies. I bought the machine with a blown piston so I had the engine rebuilt, by MBI Motorsports, who I know closely. They also cleaned the carbs, synched them, ect.

What Im thinking is there must be something with the clutching that we are missing...
I noticed on the secondary clutch there are five different "holes" for the clutch spring to go, mine is on the second one in. Also what do the clutch weights do? At full throttle, mine will do 7000 rpm and about 60. Should the weights be changed??

Its seems like we all are having the same problem! I bought this thing because everyone raves about them! Lets get them fixed!
 

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Well, they're all 440s but don't assume that you all have the same problem.

First of all, a 3500 rpm engagement seems too low. Those things don't have much power at that rpm. The engagement is a combined result of the primary clutch weights and spring rate/preload. Many used 440s were raced with various engine mods and sold with random clutch settings, engine mods removed. If your engine is stock, go back to the stock clutch settings. Also, check jet and needle settings for correct altitude and temp cause these 440s don't leave too much room for error.

Tgates:
Those power valves must open during higher rpm. If the cables are not attached to the servo, or there is too much slack in the cables, the motor will never put out sufficient power at peak rpm. And if the valves stick open, the sled will not have enough lower/midrange rpm power. With the cables detached from the servo, you should be able to pull on both cables by hand and have equal, smooth travel. Pull the covers off, pull the valves, and scrape all the carbon off to fix sticky valves. Also, your compression is a little low, should be closer to 130-140 psi. Those numbers are with the throttle valve wide open, right? Also, carb adjustments are needed to tune for the trail heads, but I would assume the previous owner would have done that. I guess you never know how things were switched around until you check.

ultrasks700:
Yours may be clutching, but unlikely. Check your primary weights and spring and your secondary clutch helix and spring, compared to stock. Only a major clutch mod would cause your sled to overshift so bad it almost dies at 40 mph. A fuel/electrical problem is more likely.

My '97 zr 440 would do 95+mph, stock motor, setup for higher-speed river x-country racing. An '01 440 snopro should be able to creep on 100 mph with stock setup. "those sleds only go 60mph or so" is total bullshit. There is hardly a utility sled out now that can't reach 80. Your sled should accelerate through 60 at the same rate it past 40. Hope all this helps guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah , i thought the comp was really low(checked with wot and 4 full pulls), I'll pull apart the valves today to clean them, and check the cables...I'm going to just go the cat dealer and get all the stock clutch springs and weights for now to give me a baseline...
The carbs are really dialed in right now ,although one of the slides looked a little rough (specially for 800 mile sled)...
You just confirmed everything i have been reading about these sleds, and i feel like the previous owner def knew more than he was letting on...
 

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Take off your primary clutch, take it apart and inspect.

I had the same problem with a sled I just bought. "Sled runs perfect" For the price I knew I was going to have to fix something. I was hoping it would be something easy like the kill switch, but knew I could possibly have to spend money.

New weights, $50

Bushing kit, $30

New belt, $55

New spring, $17

New spider assembly, $125



One thing that is nice. I'm 25 years old with lots and lots of snowmobiling in the future. I will now be able to inspect a new sled and know if the clutch is in good shape or not.
 

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Hey 21383!

So your problem was in the primary clutch?? Were you having the same problems I am, good off the start but dies between 40-50? Top speed of my 440 right now is 60mph, thats just retarded. The engine is fresh and seems to have pretty of power, it just seems like the power isent getting transfered...
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ultrasks700 @ Dec 4 2007, 04:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Hey 21383!

So your problem was in the primary clutch?? Were you having the same problems I am, good off the start but dies between 40-50? Top speed of my 440 right now is 60mph, thats just retarded. The engine is fresh and seems to have pretty of power, it just seems like the power isent getting transfered...[/b]
No, I didn't have the same problem as you. My problem was simply not enough power for a 600. Which was the same problem as the origional poster. I drove it maybe 1/8 mile and I knew I had to figure out what was wrong. There was no sense in driving any further to see what was really happening.

I took apart the clutch and it was/is completely worn out. I'll be making the clutch tools tonight and rebuilding the clutch tomorrow. Hopefully test tomorrow also. The way mine was worn out, I'm pretty sure the problem was/is just the primary clutch. (Possibly secondary also)

You're primary is a good thing to diagnose no matter what, simply because it is so easy to. Take the belt off the sled and look for slop with the moving parts on your primary clutch. Make sure your spider button rollers or whatever they are called are moving freely. Make sure your weights don't have any gouges in them. Make sure your weights are fairly solid on their bushings, ect...

I did this with my clutch off the sled. I don't see why you couldn't do it with your clutch on the sled. If you can't diagnose the clutch with the clutch on the sled, hopefully someone will chime in.
 

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update on my problem. i took the air box off and made 6 or 7 runs it was good for the first 4 or 5 no bogging on the top end then it started bogging when it gets warmed up it seems like at 3/4 throttle. i have checked the reeds there good cleaned the carbs and put new jets in them and put all new fuel lines and fuel pump on. I am think maybe i have a compresion problem. would low comprestion cause this?

thanks for the help
 

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first off let me just tell you guys with the 440s they are the most fun sleds out there!!! but and i mean but they can be very tempermental. the race 440 are very sensitive!!1 with the gas always add a littlie dry gas ecah time you fill up next. these 440s run at high rpms at least the real sno pros do, not the ones that were available to the public the actual race sleds. power valves are huge . they have to be cleaned every 500 miles at least next dont always go by what your plugs look like you really should read the piston wash take the plug out put the motor on top dead center and look at the top of the piston. also look at the exhaust side of the piston by removing your exhaust and actually looking at the piston. just because you have good 130-140 compression doesnt mean all is well your journals could be bad or you could have a bad crank bearing next run the motor,after the motor has warmed for a couple minutes, take can of starting fluid and spray it around all the gaskets if the rpms pick up them that gasket where you sprayed is bad. and lastely but not least LEAVE THE TIMING ALONE if you want to ride it and not tune it constanly leave it stock if you advance it to far you run the risk of blowing it up with as little as a 8 degree temp change hope this helps guys
 

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ultrasks700,

After inspecting your clutches for proper operation and tightness turn your secondary spring tighter to the next hole and see if you can pick up a few RPM. Yours sounds like clutching. Either it needs an inspection and rebuild or a little tuning.
 

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On the secondary which way is "tighter"? There are five holes, mine is in the second to last going left.
So

.,...

Thats what hole mine is in(the comma being the hole). What does changing that do? Also do you need a clutch tool to change that?
 

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I have been wrenching on 440's now for 5+ years and have these tips for everyone, not just 440 guys. (this is very basic stuff but important non the less especially on race sleds)

1. exhaust valve operation on the 98-2001 models, they but be clean and cycle properly to make you smile, if they don't it makes the sled feel doggy, and run like crap. (2002-2006 also, but they were better and needed less maintenance.)

2. Clean carbs, with stock settings, jetted with about 300-320 mains for 1500 ft of altitude. Good Premium fuel (critical) also add some sea-foam to the gas for contunuous cleaning and anti-moisture. If you use alcohol, use the isoprophyl only (red bottle).

3. Clutches are sensitive due to the small powerband on the 440 engine. Bushings, pins, spider rollers, etc, need to be inspected and maintained every 800-1000 miles due to high revving wear.

4. Secondary clutch needs to be clean and maintained regularily. Springs in both clutches should be checked for abnormal wear and replaced every 3000 miles or more if they are broken or sluggish.

5. Belt alignment is critical, as well as deflection. 440's like a tight belt.

5. 440's need to have the proper gearing to run strong, when in doubt gear low. Most of them run fine with 19-40 or 20-39 gears. The 2002 with the 10-tooth drivers is geared great stock at 20-44. Use a good quality chain lube and keep the chain tight to spec.

6. Suggestion: get the proper manual for your machine, they have a ton of information in them for your specific machine.

All 440's when maintained properly, and when using the proper fuel, will give you a smile on your face every time you go out, and can be driven on the trail with excellent reliability, it just takes more maintenance than other sleds. I have over 8000 miles on 440's from the last 8+ years. I know some of this stuff is redundant, but you can solve a ton of problems that are usually asked about here.

~Fast
 

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OK a couple of questions, I just picked up a 00 ZR 440 SP for my Girlfriend and I've put in almost 1k in parts already but I don't know if I'm done or not yet. I have two remaining problems, I have gone through the carbs and cleaned them inside and out, main jets, pilot, starter jets, floats, I also had to replace one of the gaskets because it was cracked in 4 places. The bottom of the float chamber was leaking through the gasket, new one fixed that, problem is now gas shoots out of the side of the carb now, just wondering if anyone knows what's going on there. Secondly my clutch won't engage properly, the movable shim doesn't move easily open or closed and it won't open up all the way when I let off the idle. So when it's on the track stand it continues to turn the track, I'm sure if I rode it, it would die. I sprayed a ton of penetrant on the movable shim then hit it with brake clean, cleaned the spider to make sure it wasn't binding. The first time I started it up it didn't engage until 7000 rpm, now it engages at about 4500, I know this is way too high. It also needs to open up about 1/2 inch when I turn it off. I've had to take a rubber mallet to open it back up. I think I might need to take the Spider off the Shim, the service manual says it must be replaced if done. Does anyone have an idea if this is the only solution, or most likely what's needed, or any other ideas. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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I have both a 99 ZR440 Sno-Pro and a 00 ZR440 Sno-Pro. The '99 will lift the skis and pull strongly up to 90+ MPH. The '00 has been nothing but a pain in the A$$... Ratcheting track at takeoff, sluggish performance, and finally blew a hole in the PTO piston.

On the '99, I replaced the primary clutch with a brand new primary using stock weights and spring. Also cleaned the secondary and replaced the spring with a stock spring. Also replaced the belt with a stock belt. Also cleaned out the power valves. This thing is a real screamer.

On the '00, I've honed the bore, replaced both pistons, cleaned up the power valves, replaced the chain/gears (probably didn't need to be done), rebuilt the skid (wheels, bearings, hyfax, etc.), and the ratcheting is still there. I have recently purchased a new ripsaw track and new shaft bearings, and hope this will solve the ratcheting issues.

I think the key here; keep these Sno-Pro's as close to stock as possible as far as gearing/clutching is concerned as the stock setup is pretty tight.
 

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I have a 2000 zr440...and I cant get the compression up even after a rebuild!!! huge bog at 4000 to 5000 rpm....new primary all stock...rebuilt secondary...I have ALL electrical components in double some triple...just rebuilt. honed at a race shop..ac pistons and rings...110 and 112 are my cyls after short stand time and 10 miles of very frustrating riding...carbs are perfect...new choke plungers and brass..280 main jet 17.5 pilot. pistons keep scuffing and generally just a pain in the axx...idk what im gonna do with this thing...it used to be an animal and ive rebuilt everything meticulously...if this next rebuild doesnt work im gonna put a 600 in it i think
 
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