Trailer Side Loading

Fursphere · May 21, 2007

Just throwing this out there...

So we took the quads out this past weekend camping. Two Arctic Cat TRVs, Two Polaris Outlaws. I load one arctic cat in the bed of my Silverado, then the other three atvs sideways on the trailer.

The issue is that I drive one on from the side up front, no problem. Then one on in the rear, then I have to muscle it to the center, due to the trailer fenders being in the way. Then the third driven on the back.

Manaully moving the one to the center is a major pain in the butt, and I'm getting tired of doing it. I haven't figured out a good way to "drive over" the wheel well / fender yet.

Any ideas?

Reference picture of my trailer:

Its an Eagle Iron (Iron Eagle?) ATV trailer, 6x12.

RogerL · May 21, 2007

How about buying a cheap atv jack that kragen's auto parts store has for $59.99? That way you can drive the second atv on the back and use the jack to push it into position.
Roger

SM Cat · May 21, 2007

Just a though can you put the center one on first ....drive on and back it up to the fenders.... the size of the trailer is
realy set up for one up front sideways and one driven up the back.....I just don't see another way other than a ramp to go over
the fenders :wacko:
SM Cat badcomputer

sixohh · May 21, 2007

is it a wood floor trailer? what's the problem with just driving the bike up and steering it twords the middle, then when the front end is in position lean forward hold the brake, than spin the rear end around with the throttle. we do it all the time. i can do it by myself if i have to. i just wet the floorboards down with the hose then step off the bike mash the throttle a bit while pulling on the rear rack... thus sliding the rear end over with ease. :thumbsup:

does anyone else do this? or am i crazy. lol

Cat-Lover · May 21, 2007

I have a side-loading trailer and had the same problem. bang your head I took the tires off, bought pontoon trailer tires (smaller and wider), and took off the fenders. Now the tires are maybe 3" higher than the floor and with no fenders i'm able to drive right over them. I'm actually using a reconfigured double jet-ski trailer. It works for me! :super_happy:

Fursphere · May 21, 2007

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (six-ohh @ May 21 2007, 02:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

does anyone else do this? or am i crazy. lol[/b]

Crazy? Maybe, but it made me laugh!

The trailer is pretty nice, its not some chop-job backyard weld job. And I'd like keep it that way, that's why I don't just drive over the fenders now, although I've considered it a few times.

I've thought about getting a "lift kit" and lowering the fenders... but didn't like the idea of a higher center of gravity.

I should probably just haul less quads... bang your head

Rugby3 · May 21, 2007

Another option is to make one fender piece removable. You can have any decent body shop cut the welds and then make a quick release attachment to the trailer. Remove the fender, load the quad and reinstall the fender. At the most the fender might stick out sideways 3/8" more.

The other option might be to see if any of the quads can straddle the fender and then install some runners mounted on the trailer. These runners would be mounted so that they act as a "higher"floor. The only issue is now you have permanent/semi-permanent runners sticking up perpendicular to your trailer bed.

kaptap · May 21, 2007

Cabellas sells Storage Dollies which may make it easier for you to move your atvs around the trailer.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/content/...i521315sq01.jpg

Hos650 · May 22, 2007

I like the removable fender idea personally. In theory, one could swap out to the smaller wheels/tires like mentioned but you'll throw the bearings quicker (more rotations for equal distance) and the ride won't be as good IMO.

SM Cat · May 22, 2007

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Rugby3 @ May 21 2007, 05:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Another option is to make one fender piece removable. You can have any decent body shop cut the welds and then make a quick release attachment to the trailer. Remove the fender, load the quad and reinstall the fender. At the most the fender might stick out sideways 3/8" more.

The other option might be to see if any of the quads can straddle the fender and then install some runners mounted on the trailer. These runners would be mounted so that they act as a "higher"floor. The only issue is now you have permanent/semi-permanent runners sticking up perpendicular to your trailer bed.[/b]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Hos650 @ May 21 2007, 07:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

I like the removable fender idea personally. In theory, one could swap out to the smaller wheels/tires like mentioned but you'll throw the bearings quicker (more rotations for equal distance) and the ride won't be as good IMO.[/b]

I like that take off the fenders and remount them with wing nuts so you can take off and put on in a slomo
That would work for me...

SM Cat badcomputer

Fursphere · May 23, 2007

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I think I'm just going to go around the problem, and buy a toyhauler.

ArcticDad · May 23, 2007

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Fursphere @ May 23 2007, 12:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I think I'm just going to go around the problem, and buy a toyhauler. [/b]

There you go! Think inside the box!

:beer_cheers:

Fursphere · Jul 16, 2007

Ok, so the Toy Hauler idea totally bombed (don't ask

), so I'm back dealing with the trailer.

I've re-visited the idea of "lifting" the trailer and lowering the fender, I think it would be 6" at most, maybe less.

Does anyone think raising the center-of-gravity 4" - 6" would be dangerous?

swampcat07 · Jul 16, 2007

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Fursphere @ Jul 16 2007, 03:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Does anyone think raising the center-of-gravity 4" - 6" would be dangerous?[/b]

Yes but it depends what speeds the trailer will be going and how fast you want to corner.

My old trailer had about 1 1/2 to 2 feet of ground clearance and with the ATV loaded on top of the trailer the center of gravity of the ATV and the trailer was way higher than the trailer. Also the three ATV's may be pushing the loading limits of the trailer when this happens the trailer and tow veichle both handle diffrently.

If it is a short distance i think you may be fine but for highway speeds (70+) you may need to look into it a bit more.

If I get a chance I will post a pic of my old trailer.

Fursphere · Jul 16, 2007

Sounds like I shouldn't screw with it then.

lokimack · Jul 16, 2007

What size are the tires? 15"? What is the weight rating of the trailer to safely haul? Is the trailer only used for hauling ATVs, lawnmowers or the like?

I lifted my 20ft gooseneck liquid feed trailer 12" using 2 pieces of 2x6 square steel tubing with very little ill effects. Yes, you have to pay attention when cornering with 1000 gals of feed. Of course this is a tandem torsion axle trailer, with 16" single wheels not duals, that was designed to be light weight but strong enough for a 13000+ payload .

SuperTrooper · Jul 17, 2007

Hopefully you are putting the TRV in the center of the trailer to better center the load over the axle. A two inch highlifter lift and some 28's on it should allow it to straddle the fenders. I think that you will appreciate the bike more with the extra ground clearance. I have a 16 foot tanden axle trailer that I just ride up and down the fenders. I bought a can of rubberized spray from Wal-Mart, taped off the edges, and sprayed them to keep from scratchin it. I can haul my three bikes and camping gear that I put in a tool box on it or a fourth bike.

BOSSLOADER · Jul 17, 2007

i have the same problem with my trv's i load one on the front sideways and the one on the back straight so it looks like a T maybe you could do this?

Fursphere · Jul 17, 2007

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SuperTrooper @ Jul 16 2007, 11:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Hopefully you are putting the TRV in the center of the trailer to better center the load over the axle. A two inch highlifter lift and some 28's on it should allow it to straddle the fenders. I think that you will appreciate the bike more with the extra ground clearance. I have a 16 foot tanden axle trailer that I just ride up and down the fenders. I bought a can of rubberized spray from Wal-Mart, taped off the edges, and sprayed them to keep from scratchin it. I can haul my three bikes and camping gear that I put in a tool box on it or a fourth bike.[/b]

I load the TRVs sideways, one in front of the axle, one to the rear of the axle.

I have no interest in putting a lift kit on the ATV, as it already goes everywhere I want it to with ease (Rubicon trail... been there, done that, winched out other ATVs along the way).

They are 15" wheels, the trailer axle has a capacity of like 3300lbs and the trailer is like 800lbs I think? So that gives me 2,500 for cargo (two TRVs, or one TRV and two sport bikes) with a safety margin factored in.

GREY GOAT · Jul 17, 2007

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Fursphere @ Jul 16 2007, 02:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Ok, so the Toy Hauler idea totally bombed (don't ask ), so I'm back dealing with the trailer.

I've re-visited the idea of "lifting" the trailer and lowering the fender, I think it would be 6" at most, maybe less.

Does anyone think raising the center-of-gravity 4" - 6" would be dangerous?[/b]

Depends on your driving style. I helped a buddy of mine build a trailer from scratch, it was made to keep a good balance/stance with his lifted jeep. It had leaf springs and half the distance towards the middle we added coilsprings. I never pulled with it or anything, but he made it from se texas to utah with no problems. I gave him an old boat axle (thanks dad!), some old rims i had laying around and he had the rest. His trailer was fairly high off the ground, but the balance was good over all, just be careful.

Be sure to put some gussetts if you have to lift it, and make sure they are not in the way of any articulation.

I have a side loader and rear loader with front rack, now that i have larger tires on my bike the sideways bit dont work anymore for me. If you have to modify too much, sale it and get what you want, you may be happier in the end.

Fursphere · Jul 17, 2007

I have recently noticed that at least when I'm hauling 4 quads, ground clearence at the togue is getting low at times. The trailer looks level on flat ground, but the chains are hitting the road every once and awhile.

Maybe I need to rethink my load distribution on the trailer.

vhcat · Jul 17, 2007

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (six-ohh @ May 21 2007, 05:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

is it a wood floor trailer? what's the problem with just driving the bike up and steering it twords the middle, then when the front end is in position lean forward hold the brake, than spin the rear end around with the throttle. we do it all the time. i can do it by myself if i have to. i just wet the floorboards down with the hose then step off the bike mash the throttle a bit while pulling on the rear rack... thus sliding the rear end over with ease. :thumbsup:

does anyone else do this? or am i crazy. lol[/b]

Now that sounds like something I would try.......LOL

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (RogerL @ May 21 2007, 04:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

How about buying a cheap atv jack that kragen's auto parts store has for $59.99? That way you can drive the second atv on the back and use the jack to push it into position.
Roger[/b]

But this is probably the way I would really do it.

Vince

1wook · Jul 17, 2007

As far as the height goes I don't think it would make a big difference to lift the trailer. I'm currently making a 7' wide X 12.5' long deck over trailer to hual 3 atvs side by side and it'll be about 29" to the top of the deck.

On a car hualer I made I made the drivers side fender removable so you could open the car door to get out. I just cut the fener at the deck and welded a couple pieces of strap steel to the inside and out side of the removable portion and then used rubber latches from an ag dealer. Sorry I don't have any pics, the home computer to a dump on me. The steel strips basically formed an upside down U and sat on top of the existing fender.

GrouseHunter · Jul 18, 2007

I have designed and built two quad trailers. I like Rudby3's second option but would like to expand on his idea. I would weld on a permanent steel runner that is perpendicular to the trailer bed and flush to inside (the flat side) of the fender. I would make the overall height no higher than the top of the fender, preferably 2" lower. I would make the vertical end posts 1" higher than the cross-piece so that the steel ramps don't slip off of the sides. I would make the width no wider than to accommodate the ramps properly (i.e. approx. 48").

[attachment=72860:IMG_0647.JPG]

If you are serious about building this, I would first determine the working height of the runner. With the ramps in place, the runner needs to be tall enough so the ramps do not contact the fenders. Work on the road side of the trailer first (i.e. not the ditch side of trailer). If you decide to bolt down the wood platform, then ONLY you need the runner on one side of the trailer (drive quad on and back quad off on the road side). With the angle iron idea and two runners, you can drive the quad on one side and drive off the ditch side.

I think to prevent the quad from bottoming out on the fender, you need to add an elevated wooden platfrom to the top of the trailer deck for the center quad to park on. I am guessing the platform would have to be 6"-8" high. It would be easy to construct a mock up out of a couple of wood 6x6 posts and a sheet of plywood. Keep raising the platform until the quad clears the fenders when the quad rides over the new steel runner.
Once the height is established, build a proper wooden platform. I suggest either:
- use steel brackets and bolts to secure the new wood platform to the existing trailer deck
- OR weld some 2"x2"x3/16" vertical angles at each corner to contain the platform (my sketch says 1 1/2" but use 2" instead). If you have a snug fit between the angles and the wood platform, there should be no need to bolt it down.
Regardless, the new wooden platform needs to be removable so you can use the trailer for other applications.

I personally would not raise the entire trailer. This idea is much easier and more stable since only the center quad sits possibly 8" higher. If you know a good welder, this should not take long to rig up.

Anyway, hope this idea helps or triggers more suggestions. Good luck.

PS. So about quality of photo. I do not have a scanner.

Bear 45/70 · Jul 18, 2007

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Fursphere @ Jul 16 2007, 02:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Sounds like I shouldn't screw with it then. [/b]

What is the load rating of the trailer before you give up? It's on the ID plate. The removable fender sounds like the way to go. My middle sized trailer is a single axle job, pretty much like yours and it is rated at 2500 pounds, your's could be as high as 3500#. So a 400 pound trailer leaves 2100 pounds for quads. Unless you have 3 650's or above you should be good to go. I'm lucky in that my trailer is long enough that the middle quad fits fore and aft with room for cross parking of the front and rear quads.

JOHNSAPEDA--off · Jul 18, 2007

I haven't read all of the replies, so this may be a repeat. You know how four wheel drive big vehicles do lift kits with blocks sometimes to get the added height. How about putting blocks on the axles underneath the springs to get the bed of the trailer up above the fenders. Most long trailers are too low any way and you drag the rear end on rough terrain like my fourteen footer does going into our hunting camp ( I bought a 5x8 to solve that problem since my trailer would be a major undertaking to raise up). The type of trailer you have in your picture looks like that would not be that hard to do. Just a simple thought, sometimes simpler is easier.

Trailer Side Loading

Attachments

Attachments

Attachments

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities