Shim, weight, clocking 700h1 advice needed - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum
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post #1 of 23 Old 03-16-2019, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Shim, weight, clocking 700h1 advice needed

He everyone,
I've been on this site a few years and really enjoyed all the help and info that is on this forum.
I've done a lot of reading and this is what I've come up with. I could use a little final advice to ensure I'm on the right track.
I'm riding a 2010 trv 700. Its has about 1000 kms on it. All stock other than 27" interco reptiles. I use this machine for everything from yard work, snow plowing, pulling a trailer with 1000 pounds of firewood, trails, mud, rock crawling, sand dunes, fast bush roads. Quite literally everything but huge mud pits.
I'd like a bunch more bottom end, mid range, faster backshift, and hopefully not lose any top end. Definitely need higher rpm or better power at engagement. I know I should just send my primary to airdam and I might yet. At this point I'm thinking I should do a shim in the primary (thickness up for debate), Lighten roller weights to 19 grams, and re-clock secondary somewhere around B2 (38 degrees).
Do you think I will be happy with this? Will I get the desired results? Does anyone see any potential problems with this setup? Or better ideas?
I don't want to worry about premature wear of belts, or clutch components.
Appreciate the help

Old
08 TRV 500
RTR 2" flex lift
steer lites

Current
'10 TRV 700s
27" reptiles
1100 kms
18g primary, 1mm shim, B2 clock
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post #2 of 23 Old 03-16-2019, 01:11 PM
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Without machining the primary your not going to keep your top end with adding a shim. Reclocking your secondary is definately a good mod.. try B3.
Shims are easy to add. Start with .5mm and if you dont like it add another .5. Just pay attention to the belt in the secondary so it doesnt hit the casing.. you can either trim the inside of the casing where it rubs with a dremel. Or you can reduce the shim size.

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2013 550 Core, AC Hand Guards, Zilla 27's, RTR Steer Light & Shock Bushings, Auto Resetting Brkrs, Fnt & Rr Brush/Bumpers, RAM X Mnt & Cup Hldr, Champion 3klbs Winch, AmSteel 3.5Klbs Syn Rope, Braided Hook Strap, Rowe Anodized Billet Alum Fairlead, Bostitch 28" wtrprf box, Reese Tow Hook, DYI Web Catchers, Koplin Overfenders, Dr. Pulley Primary Sliders, 2ndry B3 Clock, DDM HID 35w 8K Kit, CREE LED light bar, green LED low beams and green Oznium 3W LED bullet running lights. 2" Moose Lift.
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post #3 of 23 Old 04-03-2019, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Alex.
Anyone else?
Also, do I need to replace the gasket on the clutch cover when I open it up, or is it considered reusable?

Old
08 TRV 500
RTR 2" flex lift
steer lites

Current
'10 TRV 700s
27" reptiles
1100 kms
18g primary, 1mm shim, B2 clock
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post #4 of 23 Old 04-03-2019, 07:06 PM
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One nice feature of the Speedwerx Hypershift kit, the heavier wet clutch springs. I was worried about slow speed rock crawling, but it's not a problem. It raised the stall from 1,800 rpms or so to 3,000 rpms. I used the rollers that were supplied and shim that came with the kit. I lost some top speed, it still will do 65 mph, but it rips off the line. I plow snow and haul a trailer, no problem. I think the kit is a bit overpriced, but it gives you lots of options. I would order a new gasket.

2014 700TRV XT EPS, 2008 700SD Intercooled Turbo

Last edited by Wallamatogus; 04-03-2019 at 07:09 PM.
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post #5 of 23 Old 04-07-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have an idea how much top speed I will lose with a .5mm or 1mm shim?

Old
08 TRV 500
RTR 2" flex lift
steer lites

Current
'10 TRV 700s
27" reptiles
1100 kms
18g primary, 1mm shim, B2 clock
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post #6 of 23 Old 04-07-2019, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acresmax View Post
Anyone have an idea how much top speed I will lose with a .5mm or 1mm shim?
With just the shim alone, anywhere from 5 to 8mph...
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2013 550 Core, AC Hand Guards, Zilla 27's, RTR Steer Light & Shock Bushings, Auto Resetting Brkrs, Fnt & Rr Brush/Bumpers, RAM X Mnt & Cup Hldr, Champion 3klbs Winch, AmSteel 3.5Klbs Syn Rope, Braided Hook Strap, Rowe Anodized Billet Alum Fairlead, Bostitch 28" wtrprf box, Reese Tow Hook, DYI Web Catchers, Koplin Overfenders, Dr. Pulley Primary Sliders, 2ndry B3 Clock, DDM HID 35w 8K Kit, CREE LED light bar, green LED low beams and green Oznium 3W LED bullet running lights. 2" Moose Lift.
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post #7 of 23 Old 04-11-2019, 12:38 PM
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So, what did you do?

2013 550 Core, AC Hand Guards, Zilla 27's, RTR Steer Light & Shock Bushings, Auto Resetting Brkrs, Fnt & Rr Brush/Bumpers, RAM X Mnt & Cup Hldr, Champion 3klbs Winch, AmSteel 3.5Klbs Syn Rope, Braided Hook Strap, Rowe Anodized Billet Alum Fairlead, Bostitch 28" wtrprf box, Reese Tow Hook, DYI Web Catchers, Koplin Overfenders, Dr. Pulley Primary Sliders, 2ndry B3 Clock, DDM HID 35w 8K Kit, CREE LED light bar, green LED low beams and green Oznium 3W LED bullet running lights. 2" Moose Lift.
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post #8 of 23 Old 04-28-2019, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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So I finally got around to working on this project today. I've decided on a .5mm shim in the primary. I've switch the weights in the primary to 18 grams and I'm clocking the secondary to B2. I have a question about clocking the secondary. I've watched all of Airdams videos about 20 times and they are very helpful. I made my own compression tool. I marked one point of the helix with the shoe it lined up with before I took it apart. I backed off the spring pressure to the point that I could adjust the helix to B2. Lined up the keyway and snugged it up. The point of the helix is in between two shoes (just counter clockwise of original position) with no pressure on the spring. Adam is fairly clear in his video that the same point on the helix and the same shoe that I marked need to line up still. That doesn't seem to be right, no tension on the spring. So I backed it off and moved the helix counter clockwise until it was at the next shoe. The spring feels like it has more tension than at B1, but the 2 orginal marks don't line up. Did I do it right? I want to put this all back together and take it for a rip!
Thanks for the help!

Old
08 TRV 500
RTR 2" flex lift
steer lites

Current
'10 TRV 700s
27" reptiles
1100 kms
18g primary, 1mm shim, B2 clock
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post #9 of 23 Old 05-01-2019, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acresmax View Post
So I finally got around to working on this project today. I've decided on a .5mm shim in the primary. I've switch the weights in the primary to 18 grams and I'm clocking the secondary to B2. I have a question about clocking the secondary. I've watched all of Airdams videos about 20 times and they are very helpful. I made my own compression tool. I marked one point of the helix with the shoe it lined up with before I took it apart. I backed off the spring pressure to the point that I could adjust the helix to B2. Lined up the keyway and snugged it up. The point of the helix is in between two shoes (just counter clockwise of original position) with no pressure on the spring. Adam is fairly clear in his video that the same point on the helix and the same shoe that I marked need to line up still. That doesn't seem to be right, no tension on the spring. So I backed it off and moved the helix counter clockwise until it was at the next shoe. The spring feels like it has more tension than at B1, but the 2 orginal marks don't line up. Did I do it right? I want to put this all back together and take it for a rip!
Thanks for the help!
So, putting it back together....
Put the spring tabs in the holes you want (B2)
Compress the spring and line up the key and keyway until they engage enough to hold them.
THEN you need to turn the spring until the helix and the shoe are aligned..
Compress down and install the retaining clip. Sounds like you dont have the spring turned enough..
THis is probably the best video there is...

2013 550 Core, AC Hand Guards, Zilla 27's, RTR Steer Light & Shock Bushings, Auto Resetting Brkrs, Fnt & Rr Brush/Bumpers, RAM X Mnt & Cup Hldr, Champion 3klbs Winch, AmSteel 3.5Klbs Syn Rope, Braided Hook Strap, Rowe Anodized Billet Alum Fairlead, Bostitch 28" wtrprf box, Reese Tow Hook, DYI Web Catchers, Koplin Overfenders, Dr. Pulley Primary Sliders, 2ndry B3 Clock, DDM HID 35w 8K Kit, CREE LED light bar, green LED low beams and green Oznium 3W LED bullet running lights. 2" Moose Lift.
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post #10 of 23 Old 05-01-2019, 03:34 PM
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https://www.arcticchat.com/forum/pin...07-650-h1.html

Hopefully you marked a shoe and helix that where touching BEFORE you took it apart so you know their original orientation...
Because this is how much you need to turn either the helix or the bottom clutch face to line up the helix and shoe to the original ones.

B-1--16 stock
A-1--25
C-1--34
B-2--38
A-2--58
C-2--69
B-3--70
A-3--82
B-4--92
C-3--93
A-4--106
C-4--120+

2013 550 Core, AC Hand Guards, Zilla 27's, RTR Steer Light & Shock Bushings, Auto Resetting Brkrs, Fnt & Rr Brush/Bumpers, RAM X Mnt & Cup Hldr, Champion 3klbs Winch, AmSteel 3.5Klbs Syn Rope, Braided Hook Strap, Rowe Anodized Billet Alum Fairlead, Bostitch 28" wtrprf box, Reese Tow Hook, DYI Web Catchers, Koplin Overfenders, Dr. Pulley Primary Sliders, 2ndry B3 Clock, DDM HID 35w 8K Kit, CREE LED light bar, green LED low beams and green Oznium 3W LED bullet running lights. 2" Moose Lift.

Last edited by AlexG.; 05-01-2019 at 03:37 PM.
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