2007 400 auto Carb work on a 2005? - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 06-24-2017, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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ATV: 2005 Arctic cat 400 auto
2007 400 auto Carb work on a 2005?

Good day! I purchased a 2005 arctic cat that needed some work and hope some of you could help me out!

Does anyone know if a 2007 Carb (0470-667) would work properly on a 2005 (0470-470) 400 auto?

There are some slight differences when I looked them up on the parts Diagram:

Vacuum piston spring (#3 on parts Diagram): 2007: (5507-173) 2005: (5507-085)

Needle Jet holder (#8 on Parts Diagram): 2007: (5507-174) 2005: (5507-047)

Main Jet (#9 on Parts Diagram): 2007: Main Jet 135 (5507-057) 2005: Main Jet 142 (5507-043) - The 2007 lists the Main jet 142 as a part available with two asterisks**

Float set Valve (#12 on Parts Diagram): 2007: (5507-183) 2005: (5507-107)

Float Chamber (#27 on Parts Diagram): 2007: (5507-181) 2005: (5507-065)

Float Chamber O-Ring (#28 on Parts Diagram): 2007: (5507-207) 2005: (5507-067)

Diaphragm Assembly (#31 on Parts Diagram): 2007: (5507-182) 2005: (5507-031)

Everything else has the same part numbers listed for both.

Reason why I am asking is the fuel leaks steadily out of the overflow once the bike is turned off. I took apart the carb the other day and cleaned it out, there was quite a bit of black particles that came out but didn't solve the problem. There also seems to be some copper components inside that have corroded over time and left a green residue from corrosion I cleaned it the best I could but some still remains in hard to reach places.

Also the previous owner mentioned he put a carb kit in it but when he installed the cover for the vacuum piston (#1 on parts diagram) he must not have seated the vacuum piston diaphragm in properly as there is a small rip in the diaphragm on the piston (#4 on Parts Diagram) where the cover pinched the diaphragm. I think this is fairly common mistake as the diaphragm seems to stretch over time making it hard to seat properly, he must have tightened the cover down with it not properly seated causing the rip.

The vacuum piston is about $85 alone, and I can get a brand new carb from a 2007 for $195, and I don't believe the vacuum piston would cause the fuel to stop leaking anyways. I believe they are both (2007 & 2005) CVK 34AE carbs. I'm thinking if the carb would work it is worth the extra $110 as I would have some spare parts to use in the future if needed (the electric choke for example is around 150 bucks and from what I hear they fail somewhat frequently)

Thanks to anyone who reads this post!
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post #2 of 5 Old 06-28-2017, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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ATV: 2005 Arctic cat 400 auto
Carb ordered

I went ahead and ordered the carb the other day, should arrive within a few weeks. I will install it without any modifications to the jets and see how it runs and post back the results.

Other things I will be doing in the next day or so include replacing all 4 shocks (3 of 4 were leaking oil), and the fuel gauge (the seal was leaking and the plastic is all yellowed and cracked). If anyone is interested the parts diagram doesn't show the seal as a separate part (you need to buy the whole assembly 0570-086), however the seal came in a separate bag with a part number 0470-465 & UPC code 886224041933.

I am considering the hockey puck mod to stiffen the springs a bit, as I ride with a passenger frequently. Are there any cons to adding the hockey pucks, do they last a long time or get chewed up quickly?

Also does anyone know of a good clutch kit for these bikes?

Thanks!
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post #3 of 5 Old 06-28-2017, 05:03 PM
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ATV: 13 700 XT trv
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Hockey puck mod will make it ride like a tank.

2013 700 XT TRV EPS :
28" Bighorns on bed linered 08 Prowler rims , Wireless winch remote, 3000LB. Warn winch, Heated front and rear grips, Cat relay wiring harness for accessories, LED light bar, 08 650 trv LTD rear box, Heated rear seat, Elka stage 3 shocks all 4 corners, Aftermarket A-arm bushings, aftermarket sway bar bushings(prototype), Deluxe brush guard bumpers front and rear, Red anodized Hause fairlead, beverage opener winch hook, Synthetic winch rope, RTR motor mount bushings, Dynojet PC5 programmer, Dynojet Autotune, [/B]

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Dynojet/142m/45p/3rd/3turns--Clipped and drilled--Unifilter--Easy adjust PMS--L.C.V. mod--AC Swaybar--Exhaust mod--2"Snorkels--Sanny shock bushings-- Airdam stage 1--PSC phase 2--21/ 23gr rollers--Dalton yellow spring--.7mm shim--Sanny Steerlites--RTR Flex Bracket--2 up seat / pegs--Tach--AC handguards--28" Outlaw mst's--Skull tailight--Skull shifter--Self Resetting Breakers--1" Wheel spacers--Customcncparts Steering Damper--AC deluxe handwarmers--6000k HID'S hi/lo--AC Deluxe Bumpers--Inline Fuel Filter-- O2 sensor \AFR guage--Black Magic Full Stainless Exhaust System--Wireless Winch Remote--29.5 Outlaws--Fox Podium X Rear Shocks--




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post #4 of 5 Old 06-28-2017, 07:40 PM
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You can order jets from Jets R Us. Another option might be a Dyno Jet Stage 1 kit. You probably will need a different pilot jet as well. You might be better off getting heavier springs. I think they are rated in lbs. My 700 Diesel has 190 lb rated springs. Doorfx is right about the hockey pucks, I put them on the Diesel, was a mistake.

2014 700TRV XT EPS, 2008 700SD Intercooled Turbo
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post #5 of 5 Old 07-03-2017, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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ATV: 2005 Arctic cat 400 auto
Shocks Installed

Thanks for the advise, I decided to pass on the pucks. The shocks went on as expected, although I did notice the old shocks were manufactured by Arvin Meritor (never heard of them), made in Canada. The new shocks (OEM) were manufactured by Gabriel (have some on my car), made in Mexico. The old shocks had a mixture of oil and water inside them, and were pitted slightly when the shock was fully extended about an inch total of small pits.

Should have the carb installed mid next week, will update when I put it on.
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