|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-02-2019 07:52 AM|
|05-02-2019 07:12 AM|
Okay so after trying a few seals then installing a new bearing, new spacer and o-ring....the seal no longer blew out but still had a slow leak of visible oil. Ended up grabbing another clutch cover and reinstalled seal, bearing, spacer and o-ring. After 40 miles of giving it the gears and still no sign what's so ever of any oil in the clutch cover area.
So over all the culprit was a wore out clutch cover.
Hope this helps someone else in the future. Cheers
|04-22-2019 08:18 PM|
I've made sure the snorkle tubes and are cleaned and free of any debris. I had it apart today and placed a clean rag around the centrifugal clutch and used a bar to see if any play in any direction on the crack and seemed solid to me. Noticed one the outer plate of the centrifugal clutch that there was a few small chips on the plate itself, not sure how woulda got there but doesn't seem to effect it in any way....or so I think. Also ordered a new bearing, seal, spacer and o-ring today. Should be in next couple days. So here is a thought I was thinking, please give fed back as to if it makes any sense at all.
My bearing behind the seal isn't sealed on either side, but cat says the side facing the seal should be sealed and the side of the bearing facing the engine open. So I'm thinking maybe my problem isn't over pressurizing the seal causing it to blow out maybe under pressure is the issue. Since there is oil being pumped between the seal and the sealed end of the bearing that the oil pressure in there keeps the seal pressurized so it doesn't get sucked in wards due to not having any pressure keeping it in place. (Again my old bearing was open on both ends, allowing no pressure to be kept between the seal and bearing itself). Is this a stupid assumption to be made or dose it seem logical.
|04-22-2019 09:56 AM|
No way there should be enough pressure built up on the clutch side to blow "in" the seal.
Check the 2 clutch snorkel tubes, make sure they are clear of obstructions. Even if the exhaust was plugged up, all it would do is reduce the air flow to zero and overheat the clutch and blow the belt.
Calling Speedwerx might be helpful, but if you don't have speedwerx products in your clutch then they probably wont give you any helpful info.
I'd be carefully running at any speed or for any length with your clutch cover off. The primary has a support bearing in the clutch housing and putting stress on the primary might damage the primary assembly shaft.
This is definitely a perplexing problem.
|04-22-2019 09:21 AM|
You should be able to just pull on the crank by hand and see if their is any in out movement.
Try driving with the clutch cover off since its blowing in 2 m you should know pretty quick
|04-21-2019 12:28 PM|
|sloboda||Also is there anyway to reduce pressure on the clutch side to possibly rule that out if it doesn't correct my issue?|
|04-21-2019 12:27 PM|
|sloboda||Only about 1/4 of the seal blows out towards the engine. Inspected crank as good as I can when had it apart to replace seal, as seal has to be put in from back side of casing. Very limited with inspection as can't really see much of anything when apart. Any tips on how to check crank for walking with out complete tear down?|
|04-21-2019 10:44 AM|
|zrock||So its blowing in towards the engine or out towards the clutch? If its blowing in i would say you have to much pressure on the clutch side or the crank is walking back and forth.|
|04-21-2019 07:54 AM|
|sloboda||The first time I borrowed one and yes I did. Second time no I didn't, flat head punch and tapped in. It is a tight fit so good. Seal had blown partially inwards each time as it can not blow out wards due to casing design. Is it possible that the fixed spacer drive face is turning and blocking the holes on the clutch housing assembly causing my issue?|
|04-20-2019 10:20 PM|
|doorfx||Are you using a seal driver?|
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