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post #1 of 9 Old 05-14-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Tricks of the EFI world?

I traded some work that a friend needed done for a low mile 2009 550 H1 EFI that he let sit for quite some time. I have multiple 4 wheelers, all carbed, thought I would try efi out. I drained all fuel, changed the oil, fresh spark plug, crp8e, which was in the machine, new fully charged battery with good voltage, cranked it up and runs like garbage. lol. Wont idle for more than a few seconds without throttle being rolled on and off. Shut it off, went to adjust the idle, there is no idle screw, so i set at the throttle cable properly and gave it a try. Same result so i turned it off. Put lucas fuel treatment and injector cleaner in the tank in case moisture i missed flushing out the old fuel. Ran it hot for about 30 min rolling off the throttle, to keep it running and not stalled, trying to possibly clear out a clogged injector or throw some sort of efi code... got nothing. I thought it sounded like it was missing almost, so i pulled the plug. it looked a bit fowled, like it wasnt hot enough. I went to the manual, calls for a different plug ngk cr6e, then the cpr8e plug in it. So i get the plug the manual calls for and compare the plugs, see the attachment. They are very different plugs. I do some research and i gather that they are interchangeable. When i look at the connector, i dont see how this is possible since the boot doesn't stay tight on smaller head of the cr6e and it doesnt maintain a good connection but intermittently does run a bit better. I asked my buddy what the deal was, he says it was the original plug and boot and i don't see why he would lie about that one so here I am lol. What do you guys have OEM? anyone else have this issue? Or should i just put the old plug back in and look else where. if it isnt spark and compression is good, how does one go about adjusting the EFI to get fuel right. Does the efi system work like a obd system giving info on injector pressure, map pressures, resistances and such? Im used to adjusting carbs and everything else is diesel. Before anyone would say it, I traded him because they had a bad winter and needed to stop leaking and dont have the money, so im in this EFI realm for better or worse now, plus it is the cleanest looking, least damaged, and least running wheeler in my fleet. lol Thanks guys, look foward to hearing what you have to say.
Bill
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-14-2019, 07:10 PM
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ATV: 13 700 XT trv
2010 Mileage: 800
2007 Mileage: 800
2006 Mileage: 800
Just unscrew the top off the plug and screw it on the new one.
You will need to download a free service manual at countrycat.com.
The TPS will need to be checked and or adjusted.
These machines need a very good , strong battery to run right.

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post #3 of 9 Old 05-14-2019, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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The cpr8e doesnt screw on at the terminal. it is a compression boot that holds tight with the fatter head of the terminal that is what is on now. the cr6e has a much thinner screw on terminal ,like a glow plug, that the compression boot doesnt hold on tightly too. i attached a pic of the two plugs if you can make it out. What is supposed to be on this machine? is it a screw on or compression boot is what i am more specifically asking? they are of considerable size difference.The book calls for the smaller screw on but the "oem" on the bike currently isnt holding tight. i attached a pic
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-14-2019, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Wait, im tracking you now. I get what you are saying.... update the cpr8e is solid through the plug and snapped off

Last edited by Bclay; 05-14-2019 at 07:51 PM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-14-2019, 07:52 PM
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Doesnít that compression head unscrew leaving the threaded terminal?


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post #6 of 9 Old 05-14-2019, 09:32 PM
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Sounds like the plug boot has been changed before. Should accept the thinner (threaded only) tip of the CPR8E as shown (#34) below in schematic.

A plug of the 8 heat range seems awfully cold for a 4-stroke IMO (especially efi model), but it is whatís called for.
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 06:52 AM
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Sled: Radio Flyer vintage late seventy's
ATV: XTZ V2 550H1 50
Do the TPS procedure just to make sure that isn't a problem or contributing to yours. The service manual has the procedure for testing the MAP etc


Your machine sat, so have you checked the intake and exhaust systems. Mice love them!

I have a 09 550H1 and really happy with that machine. It's a great utility machine.

xtz,v2,550h1,50
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I got the manual now and read up on what to check in to next. I appreciate the help. I did think the nest idea in both locations, but they are both clear. Cats have been doing there part around here i geuss, lol.
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 07:03 PM
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I'm not familiar with your particular system but if everything is stock it should 'self adjust' to whatever map is programmed into it. The spark plug and cap being swapped for something non OEM will have an effect if the resistances don't match spec. Many people still think a lower value plug cap will give a better spark and better running when the opposite is actually true (even I thought so back in 1978) Many of the 'early' systems had an input/output to ignition coil and tracked reverse EMF as a crude way to see if fuel supply was correct. (Harley Davidson and GM used system for years) Lower values will give different voltage return telling 'black box' it's running rich or lean so EFI compensates with more or less fuel. Ofv course, it may be something completely different and simpler to fix, guess I'll read all the thread and replies then edit this as needed. BTW, how many times did you post this with different titles? Bad form old chap

I'm not a complete idiot, but, I'm working on it

Last edited by crazypj; 05-15-2019 at 07:13 PM.
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